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chuckfu
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Topic: Tank Swap Posted: July 28 2013 at 10:36am |
Ive got a six gallon fluval edge with a custom led light. My problem is the light keeps going out in it because of the condensation build up and shorts the lights out. Ive also got a 30 gallon cube that I was thinking about tearing down the edge and moving everything into it. Problem is that I have a lemonpeel that ate every last bit of my green star frag in there when the tank was fairly new. Any ideas on how to fix the light / prevent it from going out? How do I curb the lemonpeels appetite for coral?
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Fatman
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Posted: July 28 2013 at 11:34am |
Is the LED in some type of case that traps the condensation? If condensation or saltwater spray are the issue you would need to solve that problem first. I've seen some with covers of the the LEDs themselves that may help. A piece of acrylic and a standoff to keep it from toughing the LED?
Fat
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phys
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Posted: July 28 2013 at 12:50pm |
If it is sealed, get a small computer fan and have it blow some air inside so equalize the temperatures and humidity.
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Molli
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Posted: July 28 2013 at 1:41pm |
If the person who built the custom light fixture for you understood the use of the fixture, then I would say there is a design flaw. I'd contact that person for help in figuring out how to solve this problem.
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chuckfu
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Posted: July 28 2013 at 3:58pm |
Well Molli thats another story. This is the third time the light has gone out. I paid $20.00 to have the light repaired the first time it went out. The next time they repaired it free of charge ( so I thought ). When I told them this time it went out they told me since they didn't get " paid " last time it would be $40. After a few heated text messages and almost the same exact words you used they agreed to fix it again for free, I think. I gave them free rein on the design of it. This was their design and their parts. I just dont feel comfortable taking it back to them after this last conversation I had with them. Also to note this is a business not a individual.
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chuckfu
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Posted: July 29 2013 at 7:52am |
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chuckfu
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Posted: July 29 2013 at 7:54am |
Above is the picture of the light after it was first built. The design of it is to rest on the plastic trim of the edge, roughly 1/2 above the water level. After their last attemp to fix it and keep the lights from shorting out they also applied optices and dipped the entire thing in a rubber tool grip liquid. This is the third time the light has shorted out needing repair. The first time it lasted around 6 months. Now it is getting to be a monthly maintance chore. We've tried clear coating the thing in paint also.
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Molli
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Posted: July 29 2013 at 8:36am |
I'd put a bad review on their website then so others don't end up with a light that isn't designed to sit right above a tank, if in fact, that was your intended purpose and they knew that. Lots of businesses/individuals seems to be trying to take advantage of building LED lights for reef tanks. If they don't do it right, they deserve a bad review in my opinion.
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: July 29 2013 at 10:20am |
Disclaimer: Don't take what I say too seriously. I don't like the trouble it gets me into.  Aloha, In all fairness to both you and the company, I would have to say that the situation is a difficult one. Water/humidity plays havoc with electrical components. I remember when you first showed us this tank. It's a very neat idea but is probably going to take a little tweaking to make it trouble-free. If I may, I'd like to try and help, but first I need to check my understanding: The light sits on the only opening to the tank, right? This is the opening where gas exchange needs to occur, right? There is no Sump/Refugium, right? Evaporation is somewhat troublesome because of the small amount of leeway before it falls below the top, right? The light fixture covers most of the opening and that slows evaporation, am I right? I have an idea that might help, if my assumptions above are correct. Let me know. Mahalo, Mark  808-345-1049
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Fatman
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Posted: July 29 2013 at 10:36am |
Chuckfu, there is no way that thing can set 1/2 inch above the surface and survive. It needs at least 6 inches of clearance. Normal salt spray will corrode it down in no time. I'd do two things to it:
1) Add some optics to focus the beam and raise it up to at least 6 inches above the tank 2) Drill some holes in each corner of the heatsink. put in some spacers and cover the face with a clear acrylic sheet.
If the LEDs are in good shape and the drivers are ok, I can help you get it running.
Fat
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chuckfu
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Posted: July 29 2013 at 11:56am |
Mark Peterson wrote:
Disclaimer: Don't take what I say too seriously. I don't like the trouble it gets me into. 
Aloha,
In all fairness to both you and the company, I would have to say that the situation is a difficult one. Water/humidity plays havoc with electrical components. I remember when you first showed us this tank. It's a very neat idea but is probably going to take a little tweaking to make it trouble-free.
If I may, I'd like to try and help, but first I need to check my understanding: The light sits on the only opening to the tank, right? Correct This is the opening where gas exchange needs to occur, right? Correct There is no Sump/Refugium, right? Correct, Just a HOB to run Charcoal in Evaporation is somewhat troublesome because of the small amount of leeway before it falls below the top, right? Correct The light fixture covers most of the opening and that slows evaporation, am I right? Correct it does cover most of the opening, however I have to top off every day about a quarter of a gallon, maybe slightly less.
I have an idea that might help, if my assumptions above are correct. Let me know.
Mahalo, Mark  808-345-1049
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chuckfu
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Posted: July 29 2013 at 12:03pm |
Fat,
I don't have six inches to raise to up unless I take the Canopy off the top of the tank and then I loose the appealing look of the edge. We added optics last time and dipped everything in the rubber tool grip liquid.
I could try the standoffs and the lexan. I have also found a SCOTCHKOTE ELECTRICAL SPRAY made by 3M I am thinking about trying on the lights. I may have to wipe them down and reapply every so often but it may save my lights.
My problem with this whole situation is the shop knew where and what they were for. Came over and measured and designed the lights and are now basically washing their hands of the situation. They offered to fix them and make things "right" but I don't feel comfortable ever walking into that shop again or calling and asking for help. I believe they should have stood behind their product / design and realized the problem and came up with a solution to fix it.
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chuckfu
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Posted: July 30 2013 at 12:12pm |
After a 5 minute cleaning and a quick resolder the light is now working. Still looking for a way to protect the terminals from the salt.
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: July 31 2013 at 7:51am |
Aloha and mahalo for the answers. Okay with that understanding, what we need is a
way to have the lights sit close to the water but not get wet. Ahh that
just gave my brain an idea that would make a 3-way no, a 4-way improvement. Please bear with me as I think this out... 1. small fan running continuously for keeping lights dry to eliminate corrosion; and 2. to provide for improved gas exchange to keep a healthy pH; 3. lights can stay pretty close to where they are with no glass cover for maximum illumination; and 4. "Glug Jug" or continuous drip for semi-automatic water top-off to keep water level constant. Yep I believe that will do it. I might need to come visit so we can go over the details, but I think that will do it, in fact I'm pretty sure that will do the job. Let me know. Mahalo, Mark  808-345-1049
Edited by Mark Peterson - July 31 2013 at 7:55am
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: July 31 2013 at 7:57am |
chuckfu wrote:
How do I curb the lemonpeels appetite for coral? |
We can also work on that when I visit.
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ReefdUp
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Posted: July 31 2013 at 3:59pm |
I'm just a lowly electrical-mechanical engineer with a BS and MS...and my grad thesis was only on LEDs for aquariums...so obviously I have no clue what I'm talking about...........
I think it's awesome you wanted to try for something out of the box, and I think it's great that the company tried to accomplish that for you. But, it was a high risk project. Every high risk project has a few kinks to work out in the beginning. That's engineering...that's life.
LEDs are great...but they have two main giant enemies - heat and water. In certain applications, they aren't the best choice. End of story. This is probably one of those applications. I don't know what you and the builder discussed, but I'm going to approach this as if I was the builder. (But, I did give my recommendation on what I would do to the builder to correct the problem.)
First, I would've told you that for a regular priced LED system, I wouldn't build you one that you could put 1/2" above the water with no where else for the condensation to go with no protection. Yes, it can be done, with a lot more $$$ than you probably paid for it (no offense...I don't know what you paid, but this isn't an easy or cheap application...as you're finding out.) If you wanted a tried and true system, I would've gone with a commercial system that has the engineering resources and mass production capability to get the cost down but the design proven (and a warranty). Even then, I bet all those companies would say the same thing...that they wouldn't put their fixture 1/2" above a tank with no protection.
You have a tank running ~75-80 degrees that is trying to reach equilibrium with its surroundings. That heat sink is probably designed to run those LEDs a little lower than ~120 degrees at 6+" above the water. You have a 1/2" air gap that is trying to reach equilibrium with at least a 40 degree delta. Your poor heat sink isn't going to get help from that side at all. And it's in a canopy? Your LEDs could fry from the heat alone....
Now, you have a tank with water movement, which is going to cause some spray (whether you see it or not, it's there.) The water alone can cause serious damage to any electrical connections that are unprotected, and salt just exacerbates the issue (saltwater is much more electrically conductive than freshwater.) Look at everywhere salt creep gets. Try as you might...sealing that fixture to where salt creep can't get in is next to impossible without a cover.
IMO, this is a lose-lose situation as the requirements and LED characteristics are just too far mismatched. It was a high risk project, which always have kinks to work out. Therefore, I gave my recommendations to the builder.
P.S. Why is this labeled "Tank Swap" when it's about LEDs?
Edited by ReefdUp - July 31 2013 at 4:00pm
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chuckfu
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Posted: July 31 2013 at 6:31pm |
Thanks. In my original post I talked about tearing down the edge and moving everything into my cube. Thus the title " tank swap ". The original builder is attempting to rebuild it and I will heavily coat the leds with a circuit board acyrlic laquer. Unfortunately this will probably become regular maintaince.
I'm confused on where the attitude is coming from in your first paragragh? Just sarcasim? I was a customer that went to a business and asked to see if this could be built. I wasn't told anything about the light lasting 5 months and then havi g to be rebuilt every month after that. If it couldn't be built for the price I paid I should have been told that.
The builder has been nothing but excellent to work with ob this project. We had a minor disagreement about something but we have moved on. I appreciate everything they have done. I think I will get the light back and move everything to the other tank.
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ReefdUp
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Posted: July 31 2013 at 6:47pm |
chuckfu wrote:
I'm confused on where the attitude is coming from in your first paragragh? Just sarcasim? | Oh, I was just trying to be silly & ironic with the disclaimer nonsense. Sorry. I'm glad you got things worked out, and hopefully it won't be a maintenance nightmare for you. Unfortunately though, sometimes that's just the tradeoff for getting what you want.
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chuckfu
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Posted: August 03 2013 at 8:41am |
a BIG THANKS To Bill and his crew at Saltwater Paradise. I appreciate what you have done for my and the willingness to work this light situation out! A+++ Businessman and more than that a great friend!
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Akira
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Posted: August 05 2013 at 1:26am |
Ok , glad to see you have things worked out with the builder. Had you bought from a big name such as AI or Radion i think you would have had the same issues. But as good as their customer service can be this would be an ongoing problem for months. As Nikkie stated with all her degree's etc and my meager qualifications as a journeyman electrician. There is only so long of a guarantee I give on parts in a high risk area when failure will happen . My labor is free to correct any defects in my workmanship but I cannot guarantee what comes from the factory. Had I built this myself I would have a time sensitive guarantee to protect the both of us but would also try to solve your problem best as I could , Hats off to whoever helped you. I see both sides of the equation.
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