Sump Plumbing

 

 

 

 

Why the tee at the end of the return? that will slow the drain rate. I had to dial back my return pump because my overflow wasn't keeping up as it was.

 

In the second section sand and rock is fine, but you might want to add a light (reverse daylight) and macroalgae. It will suck up nutrients and help stabilize PH

 

Why the extra valve on the return (can't quite read what it says)? One is all you need on the return. That just seems to me like another potential area to leak from.  Use a union to connect the return pump to the return line, so you can remove the pump easily in case you need to repair/replace it

 

The flexible pvc pipe is nice and use the two part pvc glue (purple primer/glue), not the one step. Some will disagree with me on this, but it was recommended to me and no leaks/first shot. 

 

Sounds like you're gettin' close.......cool

If it were me, I wouldn't use the tee and I would change the placement of the ball valve so it won't be submersed.

 

1. Too many baffles, more complicated than it needs to be. I've seen too many of these over-engineered sumps. Chaetomorpha algae easily eliminates the need for baffles.
Those baffles also take room away from the real purpose of the sump which is to allow as large as possible refugium/algae scrubber to filter the water. The RDP (Reverse Daylight Photosynthesis) Refugium is much more important than a skimmer, the item which I gave up 10 years ago and have never used since in favor of algae and AC (activated Carbon) which you must use anyway even with a skimmer.

 

2. Remove the check valve. It restricts the water flow. But be sure to plumb the return line outlets just at or below the water surface so the tank cannot drain more than an inch or two when the pumps goes off.

 

3. The tee is only necessary if the water is dropping down the drain so fast that it makes unecessary noise or blows the bag around. Myself, I've rarely obstructed the end of the drain for obvious reasons, we don't want something like a snail shell to get stuck.

4. Also if what we are looking at in that pic of the Magdrive pump is the bottom of the aquarium and the drain standpipes, I have two suggestions. First, cut much much larger holes in the stand around the bulkheads so that when the system is up and running and a bulkhead needs to be tightened, a wrench can be used and the stand won't get in the way.

 

5. Second, look at doing a modified Durso which saves space, looks better and still quiets the drain. You can find the modified Durso here on the MB or ask me.

When it comes to design, as important as what you have shown here is the way water drains at the tank and the way water returns at the tank. The very best thing you can do for yourself now is to go on the reef tour to investigate the best tanks with RDP Refugiums.

Where's that pic.....

 

The bottom is bare because there was 4-6 inches of open and unobstructed Utah Oolitic sand in the display tank for Mr Ray to slide around in underneath the suspended reef. The return pump was a Rio 2500 in a swamp cooler pump filter to prevent algae from getting sucked into the pump. It was sitting on another swamp cooler pump filter (because that's what I had lying around). Most of the air bubbles were stopped in the floss bag but the wall of LBTR and Chaeto stopped the remainder.

 

 

There are no corner overflows, making more room for Mr Ray. The Modified Durso is in the back left corner and the Closed Loop utilizes the remaing three drilled holes for intake and return of water from a Little Giant 1200 gal/hr pump suspended out of sight above the Refugium.

 

I have a light for underneath the to sit on top of the sump already to help in the RDP, and just dont know what type of algae or plants to place in there with the live rock and sand.  As far as the activated carbon goes where do you put that and what do you put it in?  I know what it is and looks like  but as far as what it does or the purpose behind it I have no idea .  The sump was already engineered like this when I bought it so I really cant take the credit or blame for it.  That sounds good about plumbing the return line, I think I understand how to do that.  I will cut bigger holes in the stand for the corner flow bulkheads which wont be a problem at all, but as far as your suggestion for a Durso?  I have no idea?  I do plan on going on the reef tour to get some ideas, but as far as design and ideas go, I am just trying to get the best advice with what I have now

 

Thanks!

 

<----- loves baffles

<---- also uses a tee on the drain

 

Adam