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96slowbra
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Topic: Spray Bar Posted: January 07 2017 at 10:22am |
I have a 40B that I use as a fuge on my system. The overflow is a Elite Aquatics and it's at the end like a peninsula tank. I'm thinking of running a a spray bar to run the length of the tank and help turn the macro and make sure there is no dead spots. I am wondering what diameter pipe to start with..
Any suggestions?
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Krazie4Acans
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Posted: January 07 2017 at 2:41pm |
What pump are you going to use for the spray bar? Knowing the gph rating is what will determine the size of the pipe as well as the number of holes needed.
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96slowbra
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Posted: January 07 2017 at 2:47pm |
it's an old tunze adjustable. I'll look for a model number when I get home. That pump runs my manifold too. So calRx, GFO, and Carbon reactors additionally.
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96slowbra
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Posted: January 07 2017 at 3:18pm |
Tunze 1073.050 return pump Flow rate at 15 V: 800 to 1,800 l/h (211 to 475.5 USgal./h). Flow rate at 24 V: 1,100 to 3,000 l/h (290.5 to 792.5 USgal./h).
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Krazie4Acans
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Posted: January 07 2017 at 3:33pm |
I wouldn't go larger than 1/2". But I'm not sure you will have enough flow. GFO carbon reactors needs about 200-250gph so a good portion is going to that. It's going to be close.
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96slowbra
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Posted: January 07 2017 at 3:42pm |
maybe it's time for an upgrade... I'm also fighting white hair algae in my display, and that was 1 thing they suggested, to have plenty of flow in my fuge.
I like the idea of an adjustable pump, also like to do UV in the future, any suggestions there?
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Krazie4Acans
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Posted: January 07 2017 at 3:58pm |
I'd look into the dct line of pumps from jabao. They are affordable, adjustable and have worked well for my setup.
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My ocean. 90g (yup, won it!), 40g, 28g, & 10g Systems PADI Advanced Open Water Tank Thread:
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96slowbra
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Posted: January 07 2017 at 5:56pm |
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: January 08 2017 at 5:52am |
Spray Bar? Bad idea. If you have ever seen a spray bar in action, you'll know that it is ridiculously inefficient. If it were me, I would have asked whoever suggested it whether they ever saw an old tank with a spray bar. I've seen dozens of them(and removed them). I can explain the physics of why a spray bar typically doesn't work, but it would be easier to just move on.
In the pics, which I assume is the Refugium(?), I see what looks like a ball of Cheato that is covered in hair algae. That ball of mixed algae is cleaning the water but it can also lead to trouble. In all my experience, hair algae grows for three main reasons; 1) not enough Snails and Hermits to eat it, 2) the spectrum of lighting is too yellow, 3) it took over when Macroalgae such as Caulerpa, was removed or died. I'm sure we can provide some more sensible recommendations about making improvements to that Refugium, like simply using a small powerhead placed in bottom center pointing up. The algae does not have to tumble to be effective and snails and hermits are useful in the Refugium too. Also, are those Halogen lights?
Okay lets also talk about the other issue, white hair algae in the Display Tank. Please forgive me but what is white hair algae? I don't know of any algae that is white, unless it is dead. Chlorophyll is not white. My google searches turned up threads about it in freshwater forums not saltwater forums. It was identified as a fungus. So what is this stuff in your reef aquarium and is it a bad thing or a good thing? Could it be a type of Sponge? If so, that's a good thing because it adds to overall biofiltration and stabilizes the tank. Sponge is a beneficial marine animal. Could it be the mold that grows on decaying organic matter from LR. If so, that's a good thing in the short run. Mold is, well, a mold/fungus, not animal nor vegetable, but still beneficial. Could it be dead hair algae or dead Bryopisis algae? If so, that's a good thing, but we ought to ask, "Why did it go white?" If you wouldn't mind, please post some pics so we can ID this stringy white stuff for you and offer recommendations.
Aloha, Mark
P.S. I'm told that my comments can sometimes come across as condescending. Please forgive me. I mean no disrespect. I'm just trying to use what I know to offer some help.
Edited by Mark Peterson - January 08 2017 at 7:58am
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Adam Blundell
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Posted: January 08 2017 at 5:28pm |
I'd consider a maxspect gyre.
Adam
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96slowbra
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Posted: January 09 2017 at 11:46am |
lights are led. 2 5000k white, 1 redish grow light. the glass is a little dirty in the pic of the fuge. I have a handful of power heads laying around, including an mp10. I'll try that if the spray bar is a bad idea. the algae in the display may be a fungus... awful stuff. not much i can find on the web about it. here is a pic before I tossed the old rock.
Edited by 96slowbra - January 09 2017 at 11:53am
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Krazie4Acans
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Posted: January 09 2017 at 12:18pm |
Have you researched Dinoflagulates? That picture is not super clear to be able to get a real clear look at it but it looks very much like Dino's. Does it get worse when you do water changes?
Very hard to get rid of but it can be done and there has been quite a bit of new research and potential remedies posted around lately.
I believe the last one that I read about having decent success was Hydrogen peroxide dosing. You may want to look it up and see if it fits what you see in person.
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96slowbra
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Posted: January 09 2017 at 3:26pm |
That's no it. really thin white hair. Aquatic dreams has been trying to figure out what it is too. So far we are stumped. I do continuous water changes.
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Krazie4Acans
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Posted: January 09 2017 at 3:36pm |
Where did you get your rock? I saw something very similar on either r2r or reefcentral by a guy that goes by drummerreef (sp) He had bought Marco rock and it did something like this. He also was able to beat it but I can't remember his solution.
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96slowbra
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Posted: January 09 2017 at 4:43pm |
it was from reefrocks.net. i had some rock left over originally and gave them to a buddy with a really nice tank, and he had the same growth on that rock specifically. a little on the other, but when he removed my rock, it all went away. I only had the growth on the rock and sand in my display. The rock in the other tanks on my system didn't ever get it..
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: January 09 2017 at 8:36pm |
96slowbra wrote:
Aquatic dreams has been trying to figure out what it is too. So far we are stumped. |
Did you take in a sample for Ryan to look at, under a microscope maybe?
I've seen it before, but only three times that I can remember, out of probably close to a thousand tanks I've maintained and/or seen over the years. If I recall it was also accompanied by a white slime. It's definitely not an algae. I'm pretty sure it's a type of fungal/mold growth and that it may also involve bacteria, hence the slime. From my experience and the experience of other tank maintenance professionals, it starts most often in doctor and dentist office reef tanks, probably because of the unique chemicals that are used (everyone knows the unique smell of those offices).
We dealt with the problem using Dr. Tims Waste Away for Reef Aquariums. It wasn't a quick fix, but over the course of several weeks and watching it closely to ensure that all other tank conditions were kept healthy, it finally went away. Extra water changes were not required.
About the Refugium, yes, any cheap little pump will move the water just enough and that's not a bad idea, but I'm not convinced that is the real issue. That is, if I'm right concerning that ball of Chaeto with hair algae. First, 5000 Kelvin is inefficient yellowish lighting for reef organisms. It grows hair algae better than anything. I would replace those 3 LED's with one(1) Home Depot Special. One will do the job but feel free to splurge and buy two. The HD Special is so named because the cone reflector and the highest wattage "Daylight" color twist PC/CFL bulb (abt 30 Watt) can be purchased at a hardware store for about $17. Get the ordinary twist PC bulb, not the flood light and make sure it is the Daylight color.
Hope this helps. Aloha, Mark
P.S. A spray bar diffuses the flow. Little streams of water "spitting" out all those holes cannot do the job that can be done when that same pressurized water jets across the tank from just one appropriately sized orifice/tube.
Edited by Mark Peterson - January 09 2017 at 9:08pm
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