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Moonlight DIY

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bubblenbrain View Drop Down
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    Posted: July 11 2005 at 12:04pm

Just to let people out there know....there is an alternate to LED moonlight that might give you a better aesthetic look. I just finished equiping my new canopy with CCFL* that is cold cathode flouresent light* sort of a neon bulb. I got a dual 12" blue kit from a computer store for $7 and run them on a universal PSU* on that has multiple voltages* you can also use a potentiometer as a reostat; this way you can simulate a lunar phase. works great...but recommend voltage less than 12V(TOO BRIGHT) but not less than 6.2VDC* bulb will not light at all....partial lighting at 7VDC which is perfect for the lesser side of the lunar phase.

you don't get the hot spots that leds will cast, and at the same time you still get that shimmer from you wavemakers

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dnellans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July 11 2005 at 12:59pm
do you know if it is really around 420nm wavelength though?

-dwn
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bubblenbrain Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July 11 2005 at 6:19pm
I am not sure, I don't have the equipment to test the spectrum bandwidth.. but it is visibly to the naked eye(at least my eyes)to an actinic...letme do a quick research.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Adam Haycock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July 11 2005 at 6:50pm
Chris, im happy to see someone doing this. I know nothing about electronics so I need some clarification on how to power one of these.  What is a universal PSU and where can i get one? expensive? Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bob Kripfgans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July 11 2005 at 7:54pm
I'm with Adam, I need all the info. What computor store did you get it at.  Thanks bob
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chris Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July 11 2005 at 7:56pm

Wow I mentioned this in a post back in the end of May but no one seamed to even care. Cold cathodes are a very nice way to light your tank at night.

Dnellans, 420nm is a purple color! Why would you want that? They are blue and around 470nm. They are extremely close to the same color as an LED just in a tube that stays cold. You can also buy them in a UV blue which has the ability to be the 470nm (blue) or the 400nm (UV purple) or both at the same time.

Adam, A PSU is a Power Supply Unit. A universal one is one that you get at radio shack that comes with many different types of connections, and can have the voltage changed with the flip of a switch. You probably have a old cell phone charger that you can use instead. Just make sure it is a heavy power supply for its size. The lighter power supply's are the wrong type to use and could cause a problem if connected to a dimmer.

Most computer stores will have them including Bestbuy and Totally awesome computers.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jfinch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July 11 2005 at 8:00pm

420nm is a purple color! Why would you want that?

Probably because that is the spectrum that causes most corals to fluoresce.  It's also the spectrum of vho actinic light.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chris Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July 11 2005 at 8:14pm
Originally posted by jfinch jfinch wrote:

420nm is a purple color! Why would you want that?

Probably because that is the spectrum that causes most corals to fluoresce.  It's also the spectrum of vho actinic light.

But the Moon lights that people buy are a blue color which is not 420nm but instead a 470nm wavelength! 420nm is a purple color I checked before posting. Actinics are a UV light they produce UV light just like a black light. But it is a blue, UV mix to get the corals to glow better. I can tell you from experience that corals look better under a blue LED then a UV LED. Same goes for cold cathodes. 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jfinch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July 11 2005 at 8:52pm

420 nm is violet light.  I never said it was blue (but aquarium bulb manufactures do ). 

Actinics are a UV light they produce UV light just like a black light.

They are almost monochromatic and peak at 420 nm

  http://www.esuweb.com/products.asp?ESUSubCompany=Coralife&am p;am p;Catagory=Fluorescent%20Lamps&SubCatagory=T12%20True%20 Actinic%2003%20Blue%20Fluorescent%20Lamps&RelationID=112 &IDProductRelationship=368 

If they were UV light you wouldn't be able to see any "light".

But it is a blue, UV mix to get the corals to glow better. I can tell you from experience that corals look better under a blue LED then a UV LED.

I've got a 410 nm violet LED and a 470 mn blue LED sitting right here.  Without a doubt the 410 nm LED makes the corals GLOW while the 470 nm LED just makes them blue. 

Personally, for a moonlight, I like the 470 nm light.  It looks more like the moon.  And it's just too strange to see the tank glowing all night



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Adam Haycock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July 11 2005 at 9:24pm
Thanks for the info Chris
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chris Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July 11 2005 at 11:57pm

Lets just say that most blue LEDs peak at 470nm and they also give off a large amount of color that goes down in the 300nm range this is what makes the phosphors in the corals fluoresce and glow. Without this low wave length the corals would not glow at all. UV LEDS will make a coral glow better because it has more peak light in in the UVA, but a blue LED will also cause a coral to glow and it looks much better then the UV LED does. This is why we use a blue light and not a UV light. The same thing goes for actinics they cause things in are aquariums to glow because they have a very wide color spectrum that goes down into the UV range but still peaks at around 420nm. Please correct me if I am wrong on this and explain why!

But anyways lets get off of the nanometer subject and get back to what is important.

Cold Cathode Florescent lights rule for moonlights! They are cheap to buy, cheat to run, have the same color as LEDs, stay cool to the touch, are super bright (almost to bright if ran at 100%), last 20,000+ hours, and are dim-able so they can be used with a Neptune controller to simulate the moon cycle. What more could you ask for in a moonlight?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bubblenbrain Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July 12 2005 at 12:32am
I can't remember where I got theCCFL, I did a Froogle search and just bought the cheapest set. These are meant to be run in case modifications using the 12V DC from the computers power supply. 12V DC powered the tube fully and were really bright, almost as bright as my 65W PC bulbs (each CCFL has a lumen rating of 30,000cd/m2 * that is 30000 candlelight per square meter if i remember correctly) The AC/DC Universal Power supply I bought was only $19...then I just super glued the acrylic mounts that hold the cathode tube directly to the wood closest to the canopy door.  I will upload a pic if anyone is interested.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bubblenbrain Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July 12 2005 at 12:35am
Other than that th Voltage coming off the inverteris 680V to be substantuly lower, nothing

Edited by bubblenbrain
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jfinch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July 12 2005 at 9:41am

Ok, we're probably only arguing semantics and aesthetics.  UVA is the most active bandwidth to induce fluorescence in corals (but not the only).  I just think this fluorescence effect is greater with a violet LED then a blue LED.  Same thing between a "true actinic 03" bulb and a "marine blue" bulb.  Beauty is, as always, in the eye of the beholder.

And back to the topic... cold cathodes are cool

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bubblenbrain Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July 12 2005 at 10:24am

 showing the non biased side, if you really like leds....try "luxeon Star" LEDS...offered in 1, 3, and even 5 watt.... the low dome has a projection angle of 110 degree...high dome 140 degree..just recommend you rough the lens a little so it gets a bit of a diffused look(toothpaste or rubing compound) but these are a little pricy

 



Edited by bubblenbrain
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bdfitch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July 12 2005 at 1:39pm

Thought I would chime in on this topic...

I made my own "moonlights" using Panasonic blue LEDs.  They have a peak in the spectrum at 470 nm.  They have a quoted 30° viewing angle.  As for wattage I dont know what it puts out.  These lights make everything glow.  Green star polyps look sweet under the lights as do some of the mushrooms and the green sinularia.  I am not driving them at their full capacity... I am at 22 mA and 3.2 V (max specs are 30 mA, 5V) but they are pretty bright.  There are 5 lights in the hood of my 20 gal tank (one of the Marine Aquatics hex nanos) and they are all powered off of a single transformer from an old cell phone. 

A note on those transformeres... just because it says it puts out 12 volts, dont believe it... most of the ones i found were closer to 18V DC!!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chris Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July 12 2005 at 8:29pm

bbfitch I'm wondering what price you paid for your LED moonlight setup? How much time did you spend putting it together including time spent searching for parts? I ask because I would like people to have a comparison as to how difficult and costly it is to try to make an LED moonlight vs a cold cathode moonlight.

Cold cathodes cost about $20.00 from Best buy, or about $10.00 online (shipped). I installed a potentiometer onto mine so that I could dim it, cost for that was $2.00. Power supply was an old cell phone charger so it was free. Time it took me to pickup/order parts, solder connections, and install light was about 2 hours. Cost me about $12.00 to make.  

People if you have a moonlight now keep it. If you are looking for a cheap DIY moonlight go with a cold cathode you will not be disappointed.

 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bdfitch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July 13 2005 at 9:14am

Total cost for what I am actually using was about $12, so pricewise we are pretty similar.  I bought the LEDs from DigiKey (www.digikey.com).  I bought 10 because i was intending to put it on 2 tanks at the time.  Total cost for 10 is $25.  To hold them, i simply made some squares out of some 3/8" thick scrap acrylic (I am lucky enough to have a machine shop at work).  Cell phone charger was free.  Resistors are a about a nickel for more than you will need.  It just took a little time to drill the parts and wire in the LEDs.   Here is a picture of what I have...  Wiring took about an hour.  The acrylic pieces are just stuck with double sided tape into the canopy. 

 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chris Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July 13 2005 at 7:20pm

Thats cool that you have a machine shop available to you. Most of use do not. It looks like if you have are handy and have a shop that the price and time is about the same. Thanks for the info.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jfinch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July 14 2005 at 8:29am

I've got a couple of these on my tank:  http://autolumination.com/fixtures.htm (the three LED fixture).

They are 470 nm and I like the brightness and look in my tank.  They come in a fixture with a sticky taped back so they were very easy to install.  Just peal and stick.  $0.50 for a wall wart from DI and your set.  $5 x 2 + $2 shipping + $0.50, ain't too bad.

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