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nottinainthere
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Topic: help anyone Posted: February 06 2004 at 5:16pm |
can i know which are the suppliments to get if i want one of these corals
button polyp. colony polyp. yellow colony polyp. hairy mushroom coral. green fluorescent mushroom. regular pumping xenia. kenya tree coral. toadstool mushroom leather coral.
and what measurements should i take to ensure a long lived life
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would the taste of your lips i wanna ride your toxic come slipping on mine
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Jake Pehrson
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Posted: February 06 2004 at 5:39pm |
The only thing I would add is Iodine.
Just make sure your alkalinity, pH, salinity, temp., etc. stay stable.
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jfinch
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Posted: February 06 2004 at 5:58pm |
Jake, do think it matters what form the iodine is in (I2, I-, IO3-)?
Edited by jfinch
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imaexpat2
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Posted: February 06 2004 at 8:03pm |
I am with Jake P. on this one. I have many of the same and add SeaChems Iodine without any negative results. I have also herd of some adding Lugols but this is concentrated and over dosing could be pretty easy to do as such I will stick to SeaChems Iodine. I have a 135 and a 55 that I add this too on a pretty regular basis, usually as per the directions on the bottle. I can tell a difference in my Xenias if the levels drop off too much. If you have Starburst Polyps in your collection, in my experience as you add more Iodine and increase the levels on this high side of things, your polyps will not open as fully and will start turning kinda brown and looking weak. So watch the dosing of this and dont get to ambitious with it. JMHO....
Edited by imaexpat2
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nottinainthere
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Posted: February 07 2004 at 5:02am |
**So watch the dosing of this and dont get to ambitious with it
so how much should i add in ? i've a 16 g tank. 3 chromis. 1 neon blue. i should probably get one or two of the above mentioned. so approx. how much should i add. and i heard about calcium and calcium reactor is essential for these corals. so should i include those in my shopping cart ?
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Connie
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Posted: February 07 2004 at 5:16am |
I have read that as long as you are doing regular water changes you dont need to add additional iodine. I was dosing lugols 2 drops per week just as stated on the bottle but quit about 6 months ago. I have seen no change in any of my aminals. I would not add it if you cant test for it...... OH speaking of tests. I have a salifert copper test kit if any one wants it. Im downdown.......
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Jared Wood
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Posted: February 07 2004 at 7:09am |
nottinainthere wrote:
and what measurements should i take to ensure a long lived life
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If you are very new to this hobby, you might have a hard time getting a straight answer on this message board. Everybody does their tank a little different. Some people do water changes every week and add supliments every night while other just add tap water and some salt once in a while.
Here is what I have picked up during my short sojourn in the hobby. For the coral you listed you really don't need to do anything except keep all the measurements as constant as possible. But if you want to do everything possible.... if you want the best. Well then there is just one simple rule. Make your tank conditions as close to the ocean as possible.
I just did a search for ideal water parameters in a reef tank and found this link http://saltaquarium.about.com/cs/waterquality/l/bltkitchartr eef.htm maybe it will give you some definative answers.
Good luck.
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In the beginning, God created the heaven and the earth ... then He let it cycle. Have you read my dinosaur theory yet?
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: February 07 2004 at 7:17am |
nottinainthere wrote:
So how much should i add in ? i've a 16 g tank. 3 chromis. 1 neon blue. i should probably get one or two of the above mentioned. so approx. how much should i add. and i heard about calcium and calcium reactor is essential for these corals. so should i include those in my shopping cart? |
I'm assuming you use Aragonite substrate.
The fish don't really matter here, but the coral you have mentioned are all considered to be soft coral. In other words, those coral do not grow a hard calcium skeleton. They do, however, have some need for calcium as do the fish.
As Reefobsessed stated, regular water changes adequately replace the Calcium and all trace elements utilized by the average reef aquarium. Only reefs with lots of coral need the extra calcium and elements provided by additives and a Ca Reactor.
Additives are not needed in the average reef aquarium, but they are desirable for more rapid coral growth.
The ideal water changes for most reef aquariums is 10% monthly. This is information gained from a study done by Instant Ocean using their salt. I'm sure they erred in their favor so those who don't get around to doing a water change for many months are not really hurting anything. I once performed a water change test. I went 18 months without a water change. I don't recommend it because my "Alkalinity" went way down, coral were stressed and hermits kept dying.
P.S. If you don't know the term "Alkalinity", it would be very wise to understand that term and other water parameter terms before using any additive.
Edited by Mark Peterson
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: February 07 2004 at 7:35am |
If I may philosophize here.
SandyReef wrote:
...you might have a hard time getting a straight answer on this message board. Everybody does their tank a little different. Good luck. |
SandyReef has warned you!
A problem with a board like this is that anyone can offer their opinion, but it's difficult for a newbie to recognize bad advice. I once thought I knew just about everything,  only to learn later that my knowledge was just a drop in the bucket.
The time spent considering all viewpoints may confuse at first, but will most always result in successful reefkeeping.
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Jake Pehrson
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Posted: February 07 2004 at 10:16am |
jfinch wrote:
Jake, do think it matters what form the iodine is in (I2, I-, IO3-)?
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I like Lugols which I think is I2. Which from what I understand provides I- and IO3-, but I'm not an expert in this area.
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jfinch
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Posted: February 07 2004 at 11:39am |
Thanks for replying Jake. I'm not an expert either. I like to know what others are doing and why. How much do you add in what size tank with what kind of corals/algae? And what benefits do you attribute to this? Do you test your water for iodine?
Edited by jfinch
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Travis
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Posted: February 07 2004 at 2:21pm |
I would just do regular water changes. Test before you dose anything, including iodine. I have a Salifert Iodine test kit and it seems to be the hardest of all the tests. IMO our salts hold all the iodine needed.
and what measurements should i take to ensure a long lived life
My, Opinion... for your tank I would test for salinity & nitrates. I assume the tank has fully cycled? Keep the salinity stable and the nitrates as low as possable. You can advance with your tank's needs.
Edited by Travis
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nottinainthere
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Posted: February 07 2004 at 6:43pm |
Mark Peterson wrote:
I'm assuming you use Aragonite substrate. | sorry no i'm using crushed corals. and i'm just getting very worried. because i heard that they are not good and might caused death of fish. i surppose that made my other neon goby died with perfect water chemistry , now lefting with only one. and i'm using PH , gravity , ammonia , nitrite , nitrate test. and i decided on doing a monthly water change of 25% . had problems with PH so im also using a PH buffer and a normal fluoresecnt light for previously used by freshwater. please comment on my way of dealing with fish. and the crushed corals. should i change it to live sand and is my light stong enough to keep corals or should i get two of those blue lights as recommened by other guys.
thanks your help is really appreciated. this is the only forum that answer my questions enthusiasticly. thanks alot
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Marcus
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Posted: February 07 2004 at 9:01pm |
nottinainthere - crushed coral substrate is Aragonite. Crushed coral substrate is NOT going to kill fish. Wait, maybe I should read the begininng of this thread first before I continue.
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Adam Blundell
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Posted: February 07 2004 at 10:13pm |
Marcus,
You just said exactly what I was going to say. Thought I too better go back and read again.
nottinainthere- can you please tell us about your lighting one more time. I'm not sure I understood what you just said. If you are using one flourescent freshwater light, then I'm sure you will get replies here. Is that what you just said?
Adam
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imaexpat2
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Posted: February 08 2004 at 7:14am |
How old is this tank (been set up), and has it cycled, and what are the specs on Ammonia, Nitrites and Nitrates? Can you give us some more details on this tank? I assume your using "NO" light bulbs if this was perviously a freshwater tank or your using the lights that came with it at the pet store, how many bulbs and what wattage? It will be much easier for us to help you out with more detailed information.
With a tank that small, I dont know if I would really add any supplements, if I did it would be vary sparingly added. These are pretty easy corals and water changes should pretty much handle things for the most part. Guess I overlooked the tank size when I first posted.
You do have some great and knowlegable people responding already to your post. With some more detail they should be able to get you headed in the right direction.
Edited by imaexpat2
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300 gal. Frag System
300 gal. Live Rock Vat
240 gal. SPS/Clam Reef Tank
135 gal. SPS/Clam Reef Tank
75 gal. Softies only Tank
65 gal. LPS/Softies
24 gal. SPS/Softies Nano Reef
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Marcus
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Posted: February 08 2004 at 8:34am |
OK, here it goes. I have a 25 gallon tank with a 10 gallon sump/refugia. I have had experience with small tanks and large tanks both commercially and personally.
I would add B-Ionic everyday. This would help stabilize your pH and add crucial trace elements. Especially since you do not have anything helping to keep your pH up at night. Iodine is a great additive as well. Your light bulbs may be too old to put out the proper color temp of light needed for these corals to grow. They will grow under under temp of light but may or not gain the color and growth rate that you want. Did you already state how many bulbs you had on the tank? If not, how many? What type of bulbs? How much live rock? Are you still using the under gravel filter from the fresh water tank? What are you using for mechanical filtration? Is the only thing that has died a neon blue goby? If so, get used to it, fish die. Hopefully, some day we as hobbyists can figure out the perfect environment to keep fish alive fo decades as they do in the wild. Calcium is essential for both fish and corals, but the corals that you have to do warrant the expense of a reactor. That is not to say that it would not help, but they are very touchy, especially with a small tank.
Edited by Marcus
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: February 08 2004 at 6:13pm |
Sounds like we can help when you respond with more info. Here's what I would say so far...
1) Crushed coral substrate cannot kill fish, but fish can die if they can't find the right food. Sometimes they eat and still don't live. Neon gobies eat parasites off of other fish. They can survive for a while on other foods but eventually die. Their life span is short anyway, so their death in an aquarium is written in the stars.
2) Why did you decide to do monthly 25% water changes? Was that for the pH problem?
3) What problems did you have with pH? And what buffer product did you use? What was the reading before and after you started using the buffer product?
4)  Your light is probably not enough to grow most of the coral you listed. Mushrooms can do okay under fluorescent tubes. It's not clear whether you have one or two tubes. It's high light energy that is needed here. Two NO (normal output) fluorescent lights just don't provide much energy. If you have two tubes and decide to stay with two tubes for now, I would recommend a URI Super Actinic and an Aquarium/Plant Growth tube. These will provide the right type of light for mushroom coral growth Coralline algae growth and make the colors as bright and pretty as possible.
5) If the substrate is old, perhaps came with the tank and the lighting is weak as I am assuming, these can lead to a problem which decreases pH. As was previously asked, how long has the tank been running? Do you see any little critters in the substrate?
6) You told us that you have 3 Chromis. Is there any other stuff in the tank, like live rock, other fish, shrimp, etc.?
7) Do you have a mechanical, hang on the back or other type filter?
Sorry for asking so much, but since we cannot see your tank, we need to have this information in order to help you.
Edited by Mark Peterson
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Marcus
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Posted: February 08 2004 at 7:05pm |
For the record, I agree with 25% water change per month or more. I do 25% per week. But everyone does things differently.
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: February 08 2004 at 11:19pm |
Hey Marcus, you almost hooked me into a debate, but then I realized that I had already stated my position.
Frankly,  I wonder how you justify the expense and time spent on such a silly hobby  (I've been waiting to use that emoticon!
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