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ellison.chris18
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Topic: quick question Posted: February 02 2010 at 9:33am |
a few quick questions to help me get on my feet a little more so,
what is the desired ph range and salinity?
also what is the best way to test ph and salinity, among nitrate calicum and alkilinty?
also what is a LFS?
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Adam Blundell
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Posted: February 02 2010 at 9:41am |
WELCOME!
ph- around 8.3.... very few people ever test this.
Salinity- around 1.023.... everybody tests this at first.... and then very rarely. (I still stand by my swing arm hydrometers)
Nitrate- below 20ppm, maybe worth testing while a tank is new. Or if you have a heavily stocked aquarium with little filtration.
Calcium- 450 ppm.... test this often using multiple test kits
Alkalinity- 10 dKh... test this often using multiple test kits
LFS- Local Fish Store
Nice to have you here!
Adam
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Jeremyw
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Posted: February 02 2010 at 9:42am |
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Ditto what adam said,
You can take some of your water into a LFS and most of them will test it for free. Where do you live?
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fishoutawater
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Posted: February 02 2010 at 9:45am |
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Haha, quick question. Go to a Local Fish Store, and get test kits for alk, cal, ammonia, nitrate, ph, and mag. Do you have a newly set up tank? Or are you about to set one up. The testing kits will have instructions and give you guidelines for water chemistry. You can use a hydrometer for salinity, they are cheap, or a refractometer, not so cheap but much more accurate. Or you could even take a sample of water from your tank in to be tested. Buying a lot of test kits can put a dent in your wallet.
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Some day, when I grow up,...
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ellison.chris18
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Posted: February 02 2010 at 10:26am |
i live in herriman/ riverton area,
and thank you everyone for being such a help
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ellison.chris18
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Posted: February 02 2010 at 10:28am |
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i traded my old vehicle for a 25 gallon nano cube with three ten pound LR, a few candy cane coral, and a few green singulara the tank has been set up for years and he just got a 65 gal so he traded me the cube
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: February 02 2010 at 10:51am |
fishoutawater wrote:
Buying a lot of test kits can put a dent in your wallet. |
But since we only need to know
Temperature daily,
Salinity only monthly at water change time
Alkalinity and Calcium only every 2-3 weeks or more,
we can get away with just having two real test kits, Alk and Ca. 
Mg, I, NO4, PO4 and all the rest can be done at the LFS only as needed. Big $$ savings
Should I talk about how to turn a $10 Walmart shop light and $90 in parts into a $250 value light fixture?
Edited by Mark Peterson - February 02 2010 at 7:37pm
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Reefkeeping Tips, & quick, easy setup tricks:www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9244 Pay it forward - become a paid WMAS member
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Desertreef
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Posted: February 02 2010 at 12:41pm |
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Mark I think you should.
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ellison.chris18
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Posted: February 02 2010 at 2:48pm |
how often shuold i take it in to the store to see and which places do it?
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CapnMorgan
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Posted: February 02 2010 at 3:27pm |
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Every LFS except for Tropical Fish Wholesale will be able to test your water for you, though there is a fee sometimes. It ends up being cheaper to buy your own test kits and test yourself. Make sure you by a well known brand. I like SeaChem, and API.
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Steve My Old 180G Mixed ReefCurrently: 120G Wavefront Mixed 29G Seahorse & Softies Running ReefAngel Plus x2 435-8
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fishoutawater
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Posted: February 02 2010 at 8:04pm |
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How new is your tank? If it is new you need other kits to follow the cycle. At least the ammonia. I agree with Mark, you will want to check alk and cal often, and also you need a way to measure the salinity in the water you mix for water changes. Mag as well, if that gets low it makes it very hard to maintain alk and cal. With a new tank I would test at least weekly until you get a feel for how your chemistry works, every tank is different.
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Some day, when I grow up,...
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: February 02 2010 at 8:08pm |
Desertreef wrote:
Mark I think you should. |
I start with the cheap 4' shop light at Walmart. The Lights of America brand works very well as a two tube VHO light fixture. I get the one in the white box with red lettering. It has a wider reflector that sits on the tank frame.
I remove the cheap internal ballast and replace it with a Work Horse 7 placing it inline with the power cord to keep heat away from the light fixture. Cut the plug off about 6" long and use it as the plug for the WH7 and leave the power cord intact using it to run the lines from the WH7 to the fluorescent tubes. I give the fixture a good coat of glossy white paint to keep the rust away longer. The fixture sits on the frame of a 55, 75, 90 or other 4' long tank so the light is close to the water putting more light into the tank.
To further protect the end metal, I cut short pieces of airline tubing and cut a slit down the length. With some Silicone I place those pieces on the bottom edge of the metal where it sits on the tank frame.
The tubes I use can be expensive or cheap, they both work about the same. For about $60 you can use the UVL VHO tubes, one Actinic White and one Super Actinic. For ~$30 you can buy a plant grow light at Lowes and an Actinic tube at Petco.
It's nothing fancy but looks clean, white, simple and allows a lot more sunlight to come into the back top of the tank. Here is a pic.
Edited by Mark Peterson - February 02 2010 at 8:10pm
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Reefkeeping Tips, & quick, easy setup tricks:www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9244 Pay it forward - become a paid WMAS member
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fishoutawater
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Posted: February 02 2010 at 8:09pm |
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Mark, you are such a big tease, get that light thread up so we can all start planning our frag tank lighting!
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Some day, when I grow up,...
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