Params off?

wickedsnowman wrote: ...a bunch of threads on rc about this same thing...

You will eventually come to find that of the 1000's of hobbyists on RC, relatively few know enough to depend upon. About 50% of all hobbyists have been in this hobby for a year or less. There is a very high rate of turnover. That makes it crucial to know the experience and reliable knowledge level of the person giving the advice.

The WMAS/Utahreefs Message Board has a much larger percentage of knowledgeable hobbyists that together have a full range of experience. Also, these hobbyists don't let misinformation get very far before posting to help resolve any confusion or to correct any misinformation.

It's too bad that more wasn't known before this tank was moved. I am truly sorry for the loss of coral. The LS is one of the issues and there may be more, but it's too late. The tank is moved and die-off is polluting.

I'm sorry. We have discussed the best way to move a tank many times before, yet I failed to link those threads in my Tips and How to's section. Sorry. I'll be sure to go back and update that soon.


Edited by Mark Peterson - August 15 2010 at 8:19pm

Well as I said I actually used all sand from dans tank, funny thing is I have smelled sand that has anerobic spots from when I was moved freshwater tanks and this sand did not smell at all. I had done this same thing when I bought a 46g tank and moved everything from it to my 60g cube that use to be freshwater. I moved all the sand and that sand actually smelled worse and I had no problems.
I don't know I am guessing that may have started it but I am thinking that brain dyeing like it did caused alot of pollutants! Almost all of my softies were open today with the exception of a couple. I got some macro algae, have had the lights on and will leave them on, and did another water change.
I am working on getting my alk up and my calcium is now up as I did my water change with oceanic salt mix.
Anyway thanks for the help.

I hadn't been around much this weekend and didn't realize you were having so much trouble.

K so I have a question, in my 60g tank that is still running I have batting stuff in the overflow chamber as it helped clear micro stuff from the water. Would it help to take that and put it in my sump so it can start the colony of good stuff back up? I don't know how that works in a salt tank, if it were fresh water this is how we seed our new tank so we don't get a cycle.

Also where it is ammonia that seems to be the last thing I need to get rid of, am I on the right track?
I would assume if I removed everything and got new sand at this point it might do more harm? I don't know I am pretty bummed I lost a lot of stuff, and I don't know if I should be doing anything more than what I am.

Mark Peterson wrote: Oh and besides the Ammonia absorbing pad that you are using, there is a simple liquid product that neutralizes Ammonia. I know that Jake Pehrson, another of the knowledgeable and experienced hobbyists here, often uses it for tank moves. I hope that this experience hasn't completely soured you to the hobby, but that it helps you recognize the great value of coming here to ask questions and receive the knowledge that will make your reefkeeping experience more positive and enjoyable.

Would that be Amquel?
Nah I will be fine, just frustrated and I lost a lot of beautiful corals so that part really sucks. But I had discus before I did this and they were frustrating as well so it's all good.
Hopefully I am on the right track:)

does FW bacteria is the same as SW or is it like ich? one for each type of water

Yes, Amquel, Prime and a few others. They are very limited and require quite a lot to do the job, but can be helpful.

I just did a google search about "reducing ammonia in the aqurium" and one of the top hits said "the best way to reduce ammonia is water changes" This comes from an aquarium site. Of course it is one of the ways, but certainly not the best or the easiest.  I hope that we can understand the real truth about water changes, biology and biofiltration.
First, a 20% water change only reduces anything, whether it is Ammonia, Nitrite or Nitrate by 20% That means that the 0.3 Ammonia will be lowered to 0.24 and a second 20% water change will lower the level to 0.2. That's only 30% reduction.
At the same time, 20% of the Ammonia eating bacteria living in Live Water are being removed from the system, reducing the ability of the system to help itself. Not so good.

On the other hand, when a bunch of algae is well illuminated 24/7 it can reduce the Ammonia and other N compounds by 50% in a 24 hour period. I've seen it in practice. The reason you only hear it from me is because few people have tried it, or if they did try it the attempt came later after the biofiltration in the tank had naturally compensated. Unfortunately, it came too late to save the coral or fish.

Now I'm rambling, but look at how long ago I posted the thread about using LS, LR, LW and Macroalgae! While new gadgets seem to catch on fire, old antiquated biological misunderstanding dies hard in this hobby.

Brown algae is a very good sign. Let it grow for now because it is eating up the pollution. The glass may get to where you can't see through it, but that's okay. It will speed up the removal of Ammonia and the next pollutants in the cycle, which I'll bet never get out of bounds because of the right things you are doing.
You are doing good.