Best SPS water chemistry

So I'm looking for all you sps guys to give me a little hint into how you keep your sps so happy and colorful. What are your cal, alk, mag, and other levels. What else do you dose? How do you dose, (hand, reactor, pump)? What salt mix do you use? What do you run in reactors? What are your phosphate and nitrate levels? Basically, what makes this sticks explode in growth and color!
Also what lighting and par level if known, and basic flow. I have a few stick that I want to be able to grow and color up really well.

I use Red Sea coral pro. I don't dose, but I do 20% week water changes (10 gallons.)

Every tank is different and everyone will have different methods and what's best for one may not be best for another. I can only speak for my tank and my sps. I will start with what I do not test or very very rarely test. Nitrates, phosphates or Mag. Why don't I test these? If I had too high of Nitrates or phosphates I would see it in my tank via nuisance algae, cyano, and or browning sps. When I do test phosphates Im fine with up to 0.08. People who claim to have 0 of either must not feed fish or not have fish, or have a test kit that isn't accurate enough to show small amounts, and to the best of my knowledge even Hana phosphates checker is only accurate within 0.03. I never test mag as in the 3 years my tank has been running anytime I actually did test it it was above normal like 1450+ and if it was too low you can see the calcium and Alk binding and precipitating out and your pumps or anything that gets warm is coated white from it. I test Calcium and Alk as that's what my corals take up the most. I target 420 Calcium but tank is fine if it's 380 or 480. I target 8 dkh Alk but tank is fine with 7 -10 which goes against a lot of what you may read about Alk and an sps tank but I can tell you with 100% assurance that if my Alk gets to 11 dkh I'm going to have sps burning. I target .025 specific gravity, 77 temp but tank is fine if it's 74 to 80 just not fast changes/swings. I use the cheapest salt I can buy which is $39 for 200 gallon box and that's because dose so I don't want to pay for what I'm already dosing and I change very little water now days, I lucky if I change 10% a month (I used to change 10% a week but found it was not needed, took a lot of time, and because I hated trying to match a new batch of salts parameters to my tanks it resulted in a lack of stability) I skim very heavy, change my filter sock every other day, run gfo and carbon, and grow macro algae to keep nitrates and phosphates in check. I also am unlike most sps growers in that my lights (radion gen 1leds) are run VERY white and not this blue I see in most tanks (my lights have blue 18/20k in morning and night when I'm home to see tank) otherwise they are more like 10-12k. I have no idea on PAR. My number one thing is to always test Alk especially after mixing up and filling your dosers even if you mixed it up just like last time. Alk spikes are the number one sps killer in my tank. Hope this helps. My Radion settings posted here at bottom of page: http://www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=79095&PID=610389&#610389

Edited by Bryce - March 29 2016 at 11:24am

I tagged on this topic as I was hoping some of the old heads would provide detailed information as requested by the OP. So far Bryce has done so. I hope some of the other will share their wisdom and specifics. 

Activated Carbon(AC) provides a way to filter out the Allelopathic (territorial) chemicals that ALL coral produce to protect their space. Since we are dealing with a tiny space, AC is a must in my book. In my 300 gal coral farm which grew about equal amounts of all three types of coral, I used about 2 cups of inexpensive pelleted AC in a media bag in a moderate flow area of the sump, changed monthly.

My radion settings have been posted here: 

Edited by Bryce - March 29 2016 at 11:23am