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Phosphate levels

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LakeCityReefs View Drop Down
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    Posted: May 22 2016 at 6:59pm
I realize that my setup is still pretty new (almost 3 months),and I have nothing better to do with my time except try to make a perfect environment for my fish and corals. Any help with dialing things in would be very appreciated.

About a month ago I started to see some Cyano starting to grow in the sump and sime small spots inside the display. I have always skimmed the tank moderately wet. Nitrates have always read 0 since I placed the macoralgae in the fuge under 24 hour light (harvesting macro every 3-4 weeks and feed to my Tangs occasionally. I have a mixed reef with 5 fish that I feed 1-2 times a day.
Phosphates have always read 0 (API test). About 3 weeks ago I started a half dose of Phosguard in a slow reactor. I assume there has to be phosphates and nitrades in the system or I wouldn't see Cyano and diatoms.

I feel like I'm doing what I can to reduce phosphates yet the small patches of Cyano won't disappear. Diatoms and cyanobacteria are gone in the morning but back in the afternoon after they receive light. I feel like I'm compromising coral colors and hydration by trying to remove phosphates. I plan to pickup a Hanna phosphate checker soon.

Any ideas?
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Krazie4Acans View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Krazie4Acans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 22 2016 at 7:39pm
Diatoms feed more off of silicates more than N03 or P04. They will go away add the tank matures. Don't worry about them.

Cyano is better fought with flow and manual removal this early in your tanks life. Reducing the photo period in the display will help drive the bacteria out of the display and into your sump where it doesn't usually bother people. It's normal to have a little in your tank and not a bad thing as long as it's not effecting corals.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote scfurse77 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 22 2016 at 8:51pm
Check out this thread. Looks like there is more than one type of Cyano. Some actually don't feed off of Phosphates. I started researching this when i had the same problem. Zero Phosphates and still growing Cyano like crazy. According to this, Some strains of Cyano feed off Amino Acids. (Coral Food)
 
http://www.reef2reef.com/threads/spirulina-what-is-it-and-what-does-it-look-like.249031/
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LakeCityReefs Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 22 2016 at 8:56pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark Peterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 23 2016 at 8:30am
I agree with everything that has been said above, but of course, I'll add my own opinion. Embarrassed

PO4 remover, creating a zero PO4 level does not always handle the problem for the reasons mentioned above, but there is one other important fact that has not been mentioned. The Cyanobacteria and algae capture pollution from the water as fast as it is being created. This cleans the water and makes the tests for N and P read zero or at least very low.

The cyano, algae and diatom growth in the tank pictured above may be typical for a 1 week - 6 month old tank, but it does not have to be. The biofiltration (bacteria, sponge, algae, worms, bugs, etc.) is not yet fully developed so diatoms, cyano and other algae have done their thing as opportunistic feeders. Notice that I have included algae as part of biofiltration. Normally, we don't expect or want it to overtake the other aspects of biofiltration. There are basically two ways to reduce this ugliness:

1- Stop feeding and reduce the light. This might do a quick job of it, but of course stopping feeding is not a long term solution, so after 3-5 days resume feeding, but feed only about half as much as before. (We all tend to overfeed. Fish have very tiny stomachs. Wink) Unfortunately, when the photoperiod is reset to normal the cyano/algae may reappear.

2- The long term solution is simply to add a good portion of Macroalgae to the display and keep the lights as they are. In 1-3 months the rest of the biofiltration "members" will increase in population and step up to doing their part in the process and the Macroalgae can be removed from the display

Aloha,
Mark  Hug


Edited by Mark Peterson - May 23 2016 at 8:49am
Reefkeeping Tips, & quick, easy setup tricks:
www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9244
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark Peterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 23 2016 at 9:56am
Okay, so in another thread you indicated that in this 3 month old ~65(?) gal tank there are 2(?) clownfish 2(?) Cardinals, a YT, a Dwarf Angel and a Dory. You realize that this is an overpopulation of that young tank, unless perhaps, all LR and all LS came from a well established aquarium, right?  Smile

Aloha,
Mark  Hug


Edited by Mark Peterson - May 23 2016 at 9:59am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LakeCityReefs Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 23 2016 at 6:25pm
Originally posted by Mark Peterson Mark Peterson wrote:

<span style="line-height: 16.8px;">Okay, so in another thread you indicated that in this 3 month old ~65(?) gal tank there are 2(?) clownfish 2(?) Cardinals, a YT, a Dwarf Angel and a Dory. You realize that this is an overpopulation of that young tank, unless perhaps, all LR and all LS came from a well established aquarium


It was about 50% live stuff.

Thanks for your other suggestions. I did have those in mind already. Fending and amino acids are being cut way back. We will see if it helps.
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