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scfurse77
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Topic: BRS GFO vs Seachum PhosGuard Posted: February 23 2016 at 2:49pm |
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I've been running BRS GFO in my filter sock and i feel like it's been working decent. I don't use a reactor and i've been thinking i want to try something else out like PhosGuard. Especially since my last algae breakout.
Thoughts and/or preferences.
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CADLIGHTS 42 Versa, 20 Gallon Sump, ATI Dimmable 8 Bulb T5 w/SbReef Lights Sbar, Bubble Muggus Skimmer and really mad wife :)
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LakeCityReefs
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Posted: February 23 2016 at 7:27pm |
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I have never tried gfo but Ive used phosguard and chemipure religiously. The nice thing about phosguard is that it turns a light brown color when it's expended so you know when to replace it. Typically I'll add my first dose into a reactor and it turns color within 2-3 days. The second and there after usually lasts about a month. Use about 1/2-1 cup per 50 gallons.
Edited by LakeCityReefs - February 23 2016 at 7:28pm
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: February 23 2016 at 8:46pm |
Neither GFO nor AA will completely stop algae growth. Algae grabs PO4 as soon as it's available from decomposition of food and dead stuff, especially in a new, immature reef tank. That's why herbivores (mostly Snails) are so very, very important. Algae is the basis of live on this earth. We don't really want to completely stop it, because it is part of the biofiltration. Rather, we want to have animals in our tanks that eat it to keep it in control. They both work well, even just in a media bag, though I prefer AA over GFO because of 5 reasons, one of which was stated by LakeCityReefs . Come on over, or let me know and I'll bring some to the meeting for you to try, for free.  Aloha, Mark 
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Seth
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Posted: February 23 2016 at 9:56pm |
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Would running both be bad?
Edited by Seth - February 23 2016 at 9:56pm
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75gal sps dominated reef. Bigger and better coming soon
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scfurse77
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Posted: February 25 2016 at 9:39am |
Seth wrote:
Would running both be bad? |
Good question, I am curious about this as well. I wonder if anyone runs both??
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Krazie4Acans
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Posted: February 25 2016 at 9:50am |
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You can run both. The only issue comes from stripping the PO4 from the water too fast. This can shock corals in your system. So if you are going to run either one start with half the recommended dose and if your are going to run both then split that amount in half again. Then when you change it out slowly increase the amount each time until you reach the recommended amount for your system.
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scfurse77
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Posted: February 25 2016 at 9:58am |
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Thanks for the info.
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CADLIGHTS 42 Versa, 20 Gallon Sump, ATI Dimmable 8 Bulb T5 w/SbReef Lights Sbar, Bubble Muggus Skimmer and really mad wife :)
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: February 26 2016 at 12:42pm |
I agree with Krazie, but personally I don't see a reason to run both. AA takes out more than just PO4. It also takes out Silicates, which can be food for some types of nuisance algae, which are especially common in new tanks. GFO does not remove Silicates. There you go. I've given you the second reason, out of five, for my choosing AA over GFO. 
Aloha, Mark 
Edited by Mark Peterson - February 27 2016 at 9:50am
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LakeCityReefs
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Posted: February 29 2016 at 10:13pm |
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My best success was exactly as Mark mentions, use phosguard with a combination of a good sized cleanup crew. Once there's a trace of nitrates showing in your system add macroalgae to the sump. The macro will eat up the nitrates and will also take down phosphates slowly.
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scfurse77
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Posted: March 01 2016 at 8:44am |
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Thanks LakeCityreefs, I've been running a few different types of macro since day one anyways, And my nitrates and phosphates have always been good luckily. I'm going to do a water change in the next day or two and replace half of the GFO with Phosguard and try running both. I'll keep you posted on how this turns out.
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CADLIGHTS 42 Versa, 20 Gallon Sump, ATI Dimmable 8 Bulb T5 w/SbReef Lights Sbar, Bubble Muggus Skimmer and really mad wife :)
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: March 01 2016 at 9:34am |
Wait a minute. I believe this may be going too far to fast. Read more...  Has the PO4 level been tested? If not, before going any further, I would recommend testing it. I can do the test for you or you can take a cup of tank water to an LFS which will charge a nominal fee.
If the PO4 tests above .05 ppm here is the rest of my viewpoint. Don't mix GFO and AA in the same media bag because AA becomes saturated much faster, i.e., in my experience AA removes more PO4 faster than GFO and will need to be replaced more often than GFO. (  These are reasons #3 and #4. Reason #5 is that I use less AA, so it costs less.) If too much PO4 removal media is used, it will strip so much PO4 out of the water that animals and algae will starve for PO4. All living organisms need PO4 to live and I'm not convinced your tank has too much PO4.
Don't put GFO and AA together. The AA must be placed in a media bag by itself in a good flow area like next to the return pump intake strainer.
Also don't put the AA in the filter sock/floss bag. The action of turbulent water in the filter sock pulverizes AA into dust that is impossible to collect and remove.
Aloha, Mark 
Edited by Mark Peterson - March 01 2016 at 9:46am
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scfurse77
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Posted: May 10 2016 at 10:58am |
LakeCityReefs wrote:
I have never tried gfo but Ive used phosguard and chemipure religiously. The nice thing about phosguard is that it turns a light brown color when it's expended so you know when to replace it. Typically I'll add my first dose into a reactor and it turns color within 2-3 days. The second and there after usually lasts about a month. Use about 1/2-1 cup per 50 gallons. |
Do you use the Phosguard in a reactor?
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IronMonkey
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Posted: May 10 2016 at 8:32pm |
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Hey guys, I've been using high capacity GFO since my tank started and PO4 is nearly undetectable at any given time. As I'm reading this I keep seeing "AA" referenced, but I'm not sure what "AA" is (activated armadillos?). Can someone give me the name being referenced here? Thanks!
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Krazie4Acans
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Posted: May 10 2016 at 8:42pm |
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Activated Alumina
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IronMonkey
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Posted: May 10 2016 at 9:09pm |
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Great, thanks!
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: May 10 2016 at 10:36pm |
In using GFO or AA(Kent Phosguard, Seachem Phosphate Sponge etc.) there really is no need to use a reactor. They both work just fine in a media bag in a good flow area. Don't pack the bag tight with the media because that restricts water flow over/through the media. Many times I have found it's how something is used that makes it work vs. not work. Aloha, Mark 
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MasterJ
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Posted: May 11 2016 at 10:16am |
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gfo does work without a reactor but it will last much longer and works much better when used with one. especially if your buying the expensive high capacity stuff
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: May 11 2016 at 11:21am |
My question as always is, why use another piece of equipment and a pump that needs electricity, when AA does the job and there is no need to buy a reactor? Of course that may be a similar question to "Why drive a BMW 328i when a Mitsubishi Mirage can just as quickly get a person from home to work and back.
I even go one step further and buy AA in bulk, saving me about half the cost of the Kent and Seachem products.
Why am I so vocal about this? I feel a passion to help people see that a reef aquarium can be affordable and simple.
Aloha, Mark
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love2skiutah
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Posted: May 11 2016 at 11:33am |
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It's not always about money. Sometimes you want control. I don't like to have pumps if I don't have to, so I've T'd off my returns and pushed the lines into reactors. They aren't a lot of money and being able to control the flow, making the media last longer and keeping it in a safe, tight container is one less thing I have to worry about.
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bur01014
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Posted: May 11 2016 at 1:04pm |
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Using reactors and phosphate reducing media is so 2010...too many tank crashes, base tissue necrosis, pale coloration, poor growth, etc....when doing so. Reactors are too efficient and the sudden drop in nutrients are detrimental to corals, especially sps. Experienced hobbyists with fragile coral colonies are rarely using GFO anymore, and only carbon on a rare basis. However, when they do use it, its thrown in a mesh bag and allowed to work utilizing passive flow.
I wouldn't even use the media at all unless the algae on your glass is becoming visual in less than 3 days. Algae on the rocks is a good sign your tank has adequate nutrients for coral growth and health. No algae means your corals will suffer as they need the same things algae needs to grow. Utilize a clean up crew if you find it unsightly. Seeking phosphate levels <0.03 is something people felt strongly about 5-10 years ago, its not the goal now days.
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