final result... I put in a 2400 gph pump and it works like a charm now. Just had to over do the pump power ALOT (double expected) to make up for the slowing caused by the scwds, but with that much power, I'm happy to report that the scwds NEVER get stuck, nor do the hydor rotating deflectors that were getting stuck daily on lower flow. My fish and coral now love me again, I have successfully reduced my tank from 6 pumps to 1 big one, but probably didn't save any power, just probably heat. :-)
Other important findings that I learned from this project that I want to save others from repeating:
- Float valves in line with a scwd don't work. The back pressure keeps it from closing all the way. Also when it stays in one place long enough, the algae build up around the moving parts eventually stick in one place.
- Check Valves - Also tend to get stuck open with various crap in the water and then when the power goes out... they can't close all way to stop the reverse cyphon. Solution: Just stick to keeping the heads close enough to the surface that they break cyphon before draining too far.
- Stop/Drain valves for breaking cyphon - Doesn't work. Especially with a wave maker. Each time it 'waved' to the other side, it would let air in the line and result in bubbles coming out of the heads. It does NOT however let enough air in to break a cyphon. ALSO, they never stopped all water flow completely, they constantly dripped.
PVC stuff:
- ball Valves are your friend. put one on every separate line for troubleshooting and changing out one section at a time. worth every penny to be able to turn lines on an off to fix leaks, replace pumps...etc
- Use 3/4 or 1" lines. I used mostly 1/2" and it caused too much pressure probs.
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