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willi 
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 Topic: overflow gurgling
Posted: May 06 2004 at 6:22pm |
My tank is drilled and the water gurgles as it goes in to the return pipe is there any thing I can do to get rid of this anoying noise? Oh and thanks for the help with the back flow problem, the holes in the inlet pipes worked great.
thanks willi
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Aquarium Creations
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Joined: August 20 2003
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Posted: May 06 2004 at 6:27pm |
There are many diffrent things you can do that are pretty cheap you can make your own dersa valve with some simple 90 from home depot if you need some help or more ideas give me a call.
Eric 809.4469
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Aquarium Maintenance,Consulting,Custom Built Glass Aquariums Rimless/Euro,24Hr Emergency Service 8015485201 Www.UtahAquariumDoctors.com [email protected]
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jfinch
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Posted: May 06 2004 at 6:27pm |
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Do a search here for durso standpipe. They are completely silent.
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willi
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Posted: May 06 2004 at 6:41pm |
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What where do you think that i can find a durso sand pipe or what does it look like?
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jfinch
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Posted: May 06 2004 at 7:31pm |
Start by reading these threads:
http://www.utahreefs.com/forum/search.asp?KW=durso&SM=1& amp;SI=PT&FM=0&OB=1
I think I have posted a few pictures and there are lots of different explainations. You can buy everything you need at Home Depot for under $5.
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willi
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Posted: May 06 2004 at 9:25pm |
I read the stuff on the durso but my tank is drilled in the back wall of my tank.How could i apply the same design?
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reptoreef
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Posted: May 06 2004 at 10:00pm |
You could restrict the flow with including a ball valve into the return line and restricting the flow... SLOWLY... until you've reached the desired flow. However, if this is something you decide on, be sure to use something that will not let something big enough through the return that will get caught and plug. I have ysed systems like this and they worked just fine.
Jason
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jfinch
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Posted: May 07 2004 at 7:11am |
Willi, my tank is drilled through the back too and I have dursos. I'm pretty sure I posted pictures, just a sec............. Here's pictures of my dursos through the back of the tank: http://www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1335& KW=durso
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RJSorensen
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Posted: May 10 2004 at 10:11pm |
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I have found the following to be of aid in the reduction of sound and
a general improvement to any known method of allowing air into the end
cap of a Durso standpipe overflow system.
These Sorensen modified Durso's allow enough air to be silent, yet reduce
the amount of air entering the pipe via increased draw, and thus have less
air to deal with in the sump. Making this side of the equation somewhat
easier to deal with as well.
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Rodney & Karole Sorensen
Mendon, Utah
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RJSorensen
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Posted: May 10 2004 at 10:12pm |
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Rodney & Karole Sorensen
Mendon, Utah
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jfinch
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Posted: May 11 2004 at 7:02am |
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What am I looking at?
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RJSorensen
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Posted: May 11 2004 at 10:40am |
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This is my overflow box on my 55 gallon tank. I am moving about 600
gph through my Durso standpipe I placed in it. In lieu of a drilled hole or
and adjustable drilled hole, or a air valve (which once resided below my
SMC exhaust muffler) I have drilled and taped a hole for these. They are
SMC exhaust muffler(s) from high speed air valves running from 40 to
100 psi. The have a membrane of sorts that limits air (and sound) from
making such a racket in production equipment.
In this application it is being used backwards, however the membrane
allows whatever air is needed to enter, yet no more. There is a increase in
the vacuum in the pipe or draw if you wish, but no top end sound. By
reducing the air taken into the standpipe, there is less air to deal with in
the sump. This makes that side of the system easier to quiet up as well.
My little 600 gph is silent. Dead silent.
Richard Durso is trying these out on his new 180 he is working on, I
provided the test samples for him. But share this tidbit where ever I go . .
. One can think of them as a RO membrane, allowing only that which is
needed to maintain the balance, into the pipe. No more. After some
adjusting of the exit height into my sump, I have even stopped the
bouncing overflow box problem, I think it more an irritation than a
problem, however there are those that find this undesirable in their
systems. In simplest terms, automated air control.
The larger the area above the 'T' that this black muffler connects to, the
more stable the draw flow. Much as a 'boost bottle' on a two stroke
motorcycle of the med 80's, having a resivoir of air above the 'T' makes a
improvement in the over all effect. My picture is a short version that
works for me, but on others, I have found the more air, the better. As
shown they work short too, but one should know that I feel they work
even better with some 'extra' air above if one can do so.
Hope this helps with how and why they seem to work, as with many
things, your milage may vary. In looking at your stuff Mr. Finch one could
say you are accomplished in this regard.
Edited by RJSorensen
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Rodney & Karole Sorensen
Mendon, Utah
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jfinch
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Posted: May 11 2004 at 1:01pm |
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Cool. I had never seen the muffler. Where do you get them?
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RJSorensen
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Posted: May 11 2004 at 6:03pm |
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Enclosed please find a web links to the part and a list of dealers who can
supply you with this device. I have been paying $6.00 ea. In Logan for the
ones I use.
The muffler is on the bottome of the page here.
http://www.smcusa.com/sections/products/valves.asp
There are several places to purchase SMC in Utah.
http://www.smcusa.com/sections/contactus/contact.asp?stateid =52
They are stamped with the part number AN-202 and are 1/4 NPT thread I
believe.
Let me know it they work our for you . . .
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Rodney & Karole Sorensen
Mendon, Utah
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Weimers
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Posted: May 11 2004 at 6:07pm |
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Will, this worked for me with downspouts. I'm only mentioning it to you because it was simple to try. Our downspouts used to gurgle pretty loud as the water "fell" down inside them. We closed the ball valve a tiny bit, which allowed more water to collect in the tube. The water then falls a shorter distance, and doesn't gurgle loudly. But maybe that changes the whole physics and chemistry. So try it if you like. One of these days, you should come & see our tank if you're in the area.
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Renee and Damon Weimer
Tankless in Hawaii
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RJSorensen
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Posted: May 11 2004 at 6:12pm |
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Utah SMC dealers.
Fluid Power Tech-Salt Lake City
2050 N. Redwood #94
Salt Lake City, Utah 84116
(801) 363-6789
(801) 363-6799
http://www.fptinc.com
 Intermountain Hydraulics & Automation
4935 N. Hwy 91
Smithfield, Utah 84335
(801) 563-3275
(801) 563-5901
Motion Industries - UT, Logan
390 North 1000 West
Logan, Utah 84321
435/753-7310
435/753-8416
http://www.motionindustries.com
Motion Industries - UT, Ogden
2377 South 1900 West
Ogden, Utah 84401
801/732-1881
801/732-1890
http://www.motionindustries.com
Motion Industries - UT, Orem
555 South 1325 West
Orem, Utah 84058
801/229-1955
801/229-1968
http://www.motionindustries.com
Motion Industries - UT, Salt Lake City
2075 South Pioneer Road
Salt Lake City, Utah 84104
801/972-1036
801/975-9221
http://www.motionindustries.com
Motion Industries - UT, St. George
615 North 3050 East, Suite A6
St. George, Utah 84790
435/673-4575
435/673-4902
http://www.motionindustries.com
Pneumatrek, Inc.
3066 South 300 W
Salt Lake City, Utah 84115
(801) 486-2178
(801) 466-0737
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Rodney & Karole Sorensen
Mendon, Utah
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