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doberman
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Topic: Tiger tail cucumber Posted: April 08 2004 at 10:42am |
I bought 2 cucumbers (one tiger tail, one yellow spinny) a few nights back. One was put in my refugium the other was put up in my 90 gal reef tank. The tank has been up for about 8 months and Things are looking good. I tested my water last night and they are all in the norm. For some reason both cukes have not been sifting through the sand. In fact, the one in the show tank climbed up on a rock and hasn't moved. The one in my refugium climbed up in my calurpa and hasn't climbed out since. I acclimated them for an hour using the drip method when I introduced them. The only reason I can figure that they haven't started sifting sand is because they don't like the kind of sand I've put in there. I used sand I bought from Lowe's. Haven't had any other problems with it yet. Anybody heard of this? Or should I just be more patient and they will eventually climb down? Both are still alive. I can see them move their bodies a fraction of an inch here and there.
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Richard L.
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Posted: April 08 2004 at 10:50am |
How big is the Yellow? Ours are small- .5-1" in length. They are not sand sifters, they find a prominate rock in a good water flow area and then do not move again. Have not had a tigertail yet, but believe them to be sand sifters. Be patient.
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Richard
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: April 08 2004 at 10:59am |
I can only guess that the sand from Lowes is silica sand.
Silica sand at eight months old or even eight years is not the best choice for a reef tank. Actually if I can be frank and I always am ![](smileys/smiley18.gif) , it's a pretty lousy choice. Sorry.
Though this may not be the reason for the cukes moving away from the sand. It may be that there is nothing to eat in the sand and there is more to eat in the algae and on the rock!
Why did you buy the cukes? If it was to clean the sand, that is okay but not really that necessary. (Crudy looking substrate is usually healthy substrate.) The size and shape of silica sand does not allow much detritus to fall between the particles.
If your sand is not silica, do you know what it is?
The Tigertail cuke may come down after a while, when it gets used to the tank, but please tell us more about the sand and please describe the detritus in it.
Edited by Mark Peterson
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doberman
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Posted: April 08 2004 at 11:33am |
I have one of those little yellow cukes. In fact, a few weeks ago it split so now I have two. They are filter feeders and they haven't move an inch from where they were placed -- well, where the one was placed before it split.
I think it is silica sand. All I know is I was poorer at the time (yeah, like I'm not now) and listening to my pocket book. Unfortunately, I don't want to tear my set up down - just yet. I'm going to be moving sometime between June and ...whenever. So I will probably use the move to replace the sand when I have to tear my tank down for the move anyway. Which brings up another subject-- What sand is good to use? What about the Utah sand stuff out west?
The sand in my tank is covered with algae and detritus. It is also covered with cyano that won't go away --it's been a few months since the outbreak and I can't figure out what I'm doing to cause it to stay around. I don't mind it as much as my wife does (except for the cyano), and I know that it isn't killing anything, I just wanted something to stir it up a little.
I have heard that the silica sand isn't very good, but I've never heard the reasons why. Can you give me some reasons--it will make it easier to tell my wife why I have to replace the sand.![](smileys/smiley2.gif)
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jfinch
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Posted: April 08 2004 at 12:36pm |
Silica sand will slowly leach silica into the water. Silica is food for diatoms, sponges, some mollusks, and I'm sure others. Excessive silica can lead to excessive diatom "algae". Is your cyano a red/purple mat that covers everything or is it brownish and stringy? It could be dinoflagellates which are a diatom requiring silica. That is the reason I wouldn't use silica sand in my tank (oh, also it scratches the glass more then aragonite).
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doberman
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Posted: April 08 2004 at 1:36pm |
Its a red/purple mat that covers everything. I have to constantly remove it from covering my button polyps and some of my woods polyps. They are new frags I'm trying to get to propagate.
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Jake Pehrson
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Posted: April 08 2004 at 1:49pm |
jfinch wrote:
Silica sand will slowly leach silica into the water. Silica is food for diatoms, sponges, some mollusks, and I'm sure others. Excessive silica can lead to excessive diatom "algae". Is your cyano a red/purple mat that covers everything or is it brownish and stringy? It could be dinoflagellates which are a diatom requiring silica. That is the reason I wouldn't use silica sand in my tank (oh, also it scratches the glass more then aragonite).
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Is this true?
How fast could silica sand actually leach out silica into the water?
Glass is made out of silica sand. Does that mean that the glass on our aquariums will leach silica into the water?
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Carl
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Posted: April 08 2004 at 2:29pm |
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In Syracuse
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jfinch
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Posted: April 08 2004 at 2:33pm |
I'll post more when I have time, in a few days, but I think NSW is undersaturated in SiO2. The equalibrium amount is very small, but I think some would dissolve.
Glass also has stabilizing atoms incorporated in the matrix such as sodium (green soda lime glass) which make it insoluble.
I'm not saying that if you use silica sand you'll have diatom problems. I've seen a tank reef tank using beach sand from Galvaston Island that looked great. I just wouldn't use it.
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Jake Pehrson
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Posted: April 08 2004 at 2:45pm |
I see.
If you have more info that would be great.
I have heard the arguments back and forth for and against silica, but I have never seen any documentation that silica sand will actually leech silicates.
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reptoreef
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Posted: April 09 2004 at 12:00am |
Another reason for a cyano problem, even if your phosphates read "0", is the lower levels of alk (8dkh) and higher calcium(500+). This is due to poor precip of the phosphates that begin to bind and coat the substrates. My first suggestion is to stablize your alk at a 9-11 dkh and calcium at 425-475...I believe I gave both you and Shane H. the 2 part treatments I no longer need due to my calcium reactor. Try removing the top 1/2" of your sand bed and trash it. Then replace with a clean south down or your preference of sand... I prefer aragonite. Try also to reduce your frequency/amount feeding until the problem begins to recede. And finally, be sure your skimmer is adaquate for your system and functioning properly. The cukes will begin feeding when they get hungry. The silicate sand should have no effect on preference of their sifting to feed... Could also be due to the stress caused from the change from my system to yours, and ensurance of a sp. includes reproduction(or in this case...splitting). Not to say this is what is happening, but it is very possible and somewhat probable.
Good luck and pm me if you want a hand... I will be pretty busy Friday building my new stand and modifying my canopy for the lighting upgrade.![](smileys/smiley32.gif)
Laters, Jason
Edited by reptoreef
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jglover
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Posted: April 09 2004 at 8:27am |
I had a huge cyano problem stopped feeding for a week like mark suggested and it has completely cleared up now how long have you had a cyano bloom? mine was about a month and a half.
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Richard L.
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Posted: April 09 2004 at 9:13am |
doberman wrote:
I have one of those little yellow cukes. In fact, a few weeks ago it split so now I have two. They are filter feeders and they haven't move an inch from where they were placed -- well, where the one was placed before it split.
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Adam Blundell wrote:
I'm not sure if those cukes will divide like that. I don't believe they do. I would be interested to see if that is really what happened. I guess it is possible, but I don't know of them ever splitting like that.
Adam
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In the mouth of two or more . . . .anecdotal or scientific, I dunno if it matters!
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Richard
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doberman
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Posted: April 09 2004 at 9:18am |
My cyano has been hanging around for at least 2 months, maybe longer. I'll stop feeding for a while to see if it will start to clear up. Does green water contribute to cyano? I do feed green water ever few days for my corals.
Repto, my dkh is 10.9 and my ALK is 3.9 and my calcium is around 400. My pH is 8.0. Shane has those treatments, but do you feel like I should get some, or wait to see if decreased feeding will work?
My skimmer seems to be working normally. I have to empty it every other day. Its a bak-pak II and says it will accommodate up to 125 gallons I think.
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Jared Wood
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Posted: April 09 2004 at 10:10am |
I think that the best solution to cyano is lights out. We left our lights out for an entire week to get rid of our and that worked.
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In the beginning, God created the heaven and the earth ... then He let it cycle. Have you read my dinosaur theory yet?
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Shane H
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Posted: April 09 2004 at 10:19am |
I don't think your cyano is related to your alkalinity or calcium levels in your tank. Reducing the amount of nutrients going into your tank, decreasing your photo period, and adding additional water movement are my recommendations.
(shouldn't you be working and not looking at fish sites ![](smileys/smiley2.gif) )
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doberman
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Posted: April 09 2004 at 10:37am |
OK: No more food no more lights more power heads...GOT IT!
Shane, What is Saint Kitts?
And about work......shhhhhh don't tell my boss!![](smileys/smiley15.gif)
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reptoreef
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Posted: April 09 2004 at 8:19pm |
I agree with Shane. Your calc and alk levels look o.k. Reduced feeding and lighting may do the trick. However, if you're planning to leave your lights completely off, find a place to tend to your corals(another's tank) until the lights come back on.
Laters, Jason
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