Someone requested these plans, so here they are.
1- Part # 2A554 from Grainger Supply $12.49
1- 6' Extension Cord $5 bucks or so
1" PVC Pipe (a foot or so) and a Cap Sleeve
Bucket
Powerhead
Clear Tubing
All I did is take about 6" of PVC and drill a bunch of holes in it. Drill a hole in the top of the PVC cap and glue the Float switch inside of the cap. Then stick the cap on the drilled PVC with the float switch inside. (Don't glue it for maintenance reasons...) Then take both leads of the float switch and splice them INLINE with one of the legs of the extension cord (Please be careful, and use good quality connectors and Electrical Tape to make these connections. I do not want to be responsible for your house burning down.) Mount the float switch at the desired level in your sump. Install a Powerhead in a rubbermaid container or bucket next to your tank with fleixible clear tubing returning to the sump. Plug the powerhead into the extension cord, and the extension cord into the wall.
How it works is when the water level drops below the float switch inside the piece of PVC (your sump) then the float switch completes the circuit for the powerhead and pumps freshwater (RO/DI preferably) back into your sump. This keeps the water level, and the chemistry of your tank the same all the time. I think this is especially important for keeping the salinity consistent.
I have my RO/DI hooked up to a 15 Gallon Drum with a "spicket" on the bottom in my Laundry Room. It's got a float valve to keep it filled for water changes, top offs, etc. I just fill a 5 gallon bucket a few times and "top-off my top-off" once a week. Works Great!
Here's a pic of the switch:
http://www.grainger.com/images/products/2A554.JPG
Edited by Ryan Willden
Topic Options
Post Options
Thanks(0)
