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Bob Kripfgans 
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Joined: November 13 2004
Location: Tooele, Ut.
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 Topic: Moding out your powerheads
Posted: September 30 2006 at 9:20pm |
I have built to them out of a Rio and a Maxi jet pump. The results were awesome. I have always had a flow problem. So I purchased a few items from the hobby shop and Home Depot.
Cost was approx. $14.00 and have enough material to build another with a few items left over.
With 2 small moded power heads my 46 gal. bowfront swirles with dynomite flows, almost to much flow.
Reff Central has an extensive post on these. Also check the mod site below.
This is a highly recommended DIY project. My first one to 30 min.
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WMAS is da place!
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chris.rogers
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Posted: September 30 2006 at 11:24pm |
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I've heard good things as well, but never done it.
explain how you ensured the propeller always started up the correct way, if you would please.
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reptoreef
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Posted: September 30 2006 at 11:46pm |
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I run two of these on my 55 gl full time and DARN... THE FLOW IS INTENSE!!!
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www.captivereefing.com
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Kevin
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Posted: September 30 2006 at 11:54pm |
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I have done two as well. I love the flow. They can be noisy.
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: October 01 2006 at 10:29am |
 chris.rogers wrote:
explain how you ensured the propeller always started up the correct way, if you would please.
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Yes please tell us. 
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Reefkeeping Tips, & quick, easy setup tricks:www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9244 Pay it forward - become a paid WMAS member 
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Bob Kripfgans
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Posted: October 01 2006 at 4:38pm |
I have no problems with reverse flow the way I built mine.
I have to get some pics up to show. Posts on Reef Central show you how to build them. I found all my supplies at the local hobby shop. I was creative and found a flat spoked wheel proberly for a kit car and used it as my front guide. Worked like a charm all I had to do was drill out the center a bit so the carbon rod fit thru it and used super glue gel to mount it to the front of the 1 in. pvc coupler. I also did it different than the posts. I removed the magnet cut off the original blades removed the metal shaft and inserted the .98 carbon rod. cut the to fit superglue the prop. ( I will get the # of the 2 blade boat prop) I used a mitor saw to cut the groves to let water in and used a dremal to make the slots on the back end of the PVC coupler. I made one where I just super glued the couple to the pump housing. It was esay. I will post some pics and the numbers for supplies from our local SLC hobby shop.
My only problem is they are so strong the it will create a vortex from the surface water and suck air. An easy fix I have to lower the power head 1/2 in or glue a small shield on the top of the pump housing. That is also explained on the Reef Central posts.
This is by far the best DIY project. You can tweak it to make a 300GPH pump to a 1200GPH for $8.
Edited by Bob Kripfgans - October 01 2006 at 4:41pm
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WMAS is da place!
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Tooele,Ut.
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Dion Richins
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Posted: October 01 2006 at 4:45pm |
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Very cool. Cant wait for the picks!
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DaveB
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Posted: November 18 2006 at 12:42am |
I recently did an MJ1200 Mod. It is silent, and the flow is amazing... My ORP reading went up 50 points just because of the increased flow of this MJ 1200 mod...
Dave
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jbruse
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Posted: November 22 2006 at 2:54pm |
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who has done this mod and can i get all the stuff here locally so I can do it tonight? a list and where to buy it would be great.
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-=J=-
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Bob Kripfgans
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Posted: November 22 2006 at 7:39pm |
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LOcal hobby shops have the rods and props. Home Depot has the PVC.
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WMAS is da place!
Save the Banggai's!
Tooele,Ut.
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jbruse
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Posted: November 27 2006 at 1:40pm |
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Do you have any pics and the part list yet Bob?
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-=J=-
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Kevin
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Posted: November 28 2006 at 10:58am |
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You can get alot of it locally. The hardest thing to find is the props. I have tried a few different ones and am happyiest with the octura 1435 off of mjmods.com -- You wont find that paticular prop around here.
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Wade
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Posted: December 23 2006 at 12:57am |
chris.rogers wrote:
explain how you ensured the propeller always started up the correct way, if you would please. |
I've done a couple of these too. Kevin got me interested. The way you make sure the prop spins correctly is by drilling a hole about 1/8" from the end of the tube (the shroud) that is just big enough to insert and glue a small piece of hard plastic tubing. This tubing sticks into the inside of the tube about 1/2" and acts as a stopper for the prop. If the prop starts turning correctly it will stay back and keep spinning. If it starts turning the wrong way the prop moves forward and hits this piece of pipe. It then bounces back and starts turning the correct way. This is described on the reefchili site and works perfectly. I agree with Kevin - the hard part is making these so they aren't so noisy.
Edited by Wade - December 23 2006 at 1:07am
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