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peiji 
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 Topic: RO Unit plumbing help
Posted: November 23 2005 at 10:51am |
I just bought a used RO unit from someone on the boards but I can't figure
out what I need to do to get it working under my bathroom sink. Can anyone
help me figure this out? Can I buy all the parts I need from Home Depot? It's
a water general 106 that's designed for two seperate outputs. A tank that is
shown in the picture and a faucet. However, I don't want a faucet. I only want
a single output. So, can I just cap off the faucet output? There's also a black
line that isn't shown in the picture because I know that goes to the drain.
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Jared Page
Highland, UT
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jfinch
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Posted: November 23 2005 at 11:41am |
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Yes, everything can be had at HD. You need to tie into your cold water supply line (there are a few ways to do this, but DO NOT put a saddle valve on the lav supply line). Run this water into the IN port on the sediment filter. The outlet of the third sediment/AC filter will go through an auto shut-off valve before going into the actual RO filter. Out of the RO filter you'll have two lines. The black one is the waste water (run this into a drain, a saddle tee on the sink drain is the most common way to hook this up). The drain line should also have a flow restrictor in the line. The clean water from the RO filter then goes through that same auto shut-off valve mentioned above then it will split (tee) with one side going to the pressurized tank and the other to the faucet (or through another carbon filter or DI before going to the faucet). If you do not want to use the faucet that line can be used for your RO supply line. Hope this helps.
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peiji
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Posted: November 23 2005 at 12:00pm |
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couple questions. I'm not familiar with all the terms. What is the lav supply
line? You mention there are a few ways to do this. Based on my pics, what is
the best way? Why do I want a flow restrictor in the drain line? Also, what
exactly does the pressurized tank do? Is it just another storage tank for the
RO water? Can I get my water from this tank? Do I need to buy the auto
shut-off valve or is it already part of the equipment?
Based on my pics above, it looks like the white line should go into the
pressurized thank, the blue line is the RO supply line, the Red one I have no
clue what that is and the yellow one would go to the cold water supply line.
Sorry for all the questions. I really am clueless when it comes to plumbing
and stuff.
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Jared Page
Highland, UT
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jfinch
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Posted: November 23 2005 at 12:20pm |
The lav supply is the plastic 1/4" lines that go from the steel valve to the sink faucet. I just found this, it should be very helpful for you:
http://www.watergeneral.com/support/pdf/RD100.pdf
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Summertop
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Posted: November 23 2005 at 12:25pm |
Off the top of my head, I don't remember what the colors are for. The pressurized tank is just another holding tank. Usually, RO water goes into the pressure tank, then from there to the faucet. If you are not using the faucet, you probably won't use the tank.
I have a water general RODI unit installed. You are welcome to come by and take a look at it. Just call me before hand (554-7123). Or, when I am home, you can call me and I can describe my installation to you over the phone.
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Shawn Winterbottom
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peiji
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Posted: November 23 2005 at 1:05pm |
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After looking at the water general instructions, I'm still wondering what the
DI water valve is. Also, Shawn, I won't have time to go to Sandy but if you
could post some pictures, that would sure help. Where do you have it
installed?
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Jared Page
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Mike Savage
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Posted: November 23 2005 at 1:15pm |
 peiji wrote:
After looking at the water general instructions, I'm still wondering what the
DI water valve is. |
Do you mean what is it for? The R/O output is for drinking water and the DI output is for tank water.
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peiji
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Posted: November 23 2005 at 1:20pm |
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OH, I didn't realize that they were different. So, I want to use the DI output.
In other words, I really don't even need the pressurized tank or the RO
output if I'm just using it for my tank.
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Jared Page
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peiji
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Posted: November 23 2005 at 1:30pm |
Is this the flow restrictor?
So, all I need to get is something that will connect my cold water supply to
my RO unit and a drain saddle tee? And I guess I'll need a valve at the end of
my DI line to turn it on and off.
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Jared Page
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jfinch
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Posted: November 23 2005 at 1:51pm |
So, all I need to get is something that will connect my cold water supply to my RO unit and a drain saddle tee? And I guess I'll need a valve at the end of my DI line to turn it on and off.
Exactly.
Yes that is the flow restrictor. And the round plastic thing next to it is the auto shutoff valve.
Leaving the bottle will make it so you will have 5 gallons of RO water at your ready. Without it you'll only get a small trickle of water out of the unit. I don't use a bottle on mine, cause it's only used for my tank and a trickle is what I want.
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bdfitch
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Posted: November 23 2005 at 2:01pm |
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FWIW, I connected my system (without the storage jug) using a Y-looking
hose connection (found in the garden center at HD or Lowes) and used
the cold water laundry hookup in my basement. I dont remember
exactly what i used to get the water to the RO/DI unit, but it was all
available at HD and i can check this evening. There is a drain
right there too so no other valve is needed, or the waste water could
be used to fill the washing machine. I do have to lug jugs
upstairs, but at about 5 gal a week its not a big deal. Looks
like if you wanted to use the storage jug you would just have to remove
the valve on the blue line and connect it to the jug, looks like the
same thing to me.
Make sure your water pressure is high enough at the bathroom oulet, I assume it would be fine.
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Brian
20g Nano
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peiji
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Posted: November 23 2005 at 2:08pm |
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So, Jon. Are you saying I can use the RO and the DI for my tank? I'm still
confused about the difference.
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Jared Page
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jfinch
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Posted: November 23 2005 at 2:21pm |
Use the DI for the tank. The water DI is the final treatment. The water goes from your home line, into the sediment filter, then activated carbon, then RO then DI. The TDS from the RO should be under 25 ppm and from the DI less then 1 ppm.
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: November 23 2005 at 10:58pm |
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If you don't need the holding tank, I would like to buy it from you. If you are willing to sell the tank I could pick it up and while I'm there, could check your plumbing to be sure it's right.
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peiji
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Posted: November 24 2005 at 8:02am |
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thanks for the offer Mark. But I think if I sold the holding tank, I'd regret it
later on. Let me run it a while before i decide if I will ever use it or not.
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Jared Page
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Will Spencer
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Posted: November 24 2005 at 11:39am |
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For what it's worth, the reason the RO is for drinking and DI is for the tank is that the DI is much more pure (good for tank), but doesn't taste very good. So for drinking water the water stops with the RO so you'll still want to drink it.
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: November 24 2005 at 11:57am |
Also, fwiw, DI resin can be expensive and a bother to change. If it were me, I'd discard the DI chamber when it's used up and just go with RO for the tank as well. Algae in the Refugium cleans most any other impurity that the RO water let slip past.
When you look at it, the water entering the ocean from rivers is very dirty and yet it contains some of the minerals that organisms need to survive. There are many people that have nice tanks using tapwater!
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