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    Posted: June 05 2011 at 9:20pm
how do i get the ammonia levels down in my new tank i dont have any fish or corals i have a sump with algae but my levels are not comming down 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phys Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 05 2011 at 9:32pm
how new is it? if its really new, you'll have to wait for the tank to establish the beneficial bacteria that convert ammonia to nitrite to nitrates. This can be a week to several weeks. 
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about 3 weeks old i have a few snails in there
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phys Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 05 2011 at 9:41pm
you're probably building the bacteria still. what kind of rock did you get for it?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cmc-1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 05 2011 at 9:58pm
some utah but mostly fiji
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phys Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 05 2011 at 10:01pm
sounds like you're still in the cycle with the fiji then. just be patient and the ammonia will go away.. just watch for it and the nitrites.. when the nitrites go, you should be good to add some animals. 
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how do i get the nitrites down after the ammonia is gone does coral help reduce any of these levels
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phys Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 05 2011 at 10:08pm
nitrates will be reduced by macro algae.. so if you dont have any (which i think you said you did) then get some.. chaetomorpha is good for it. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cmc-1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 05 2011 at 10:11pm
ive got some in my sump what kind of lighting do i need on it i just have a regular bulb on it is that good enough
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phys Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 05 2011 at 10:40pm
probably around 15 watts should work.. maybe wait for someone who has some in a sump similar to yours to chime in before taking my word for it though.. 
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thanks anbody have anything to add
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phys Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 05 2011 at 11:04pm
actually, i just noticed its a 30 gallon sump.. so at least 30 watts of CFL.. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PDoug Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 05 2011 at 11:34pm
get a 6500k bulb they sell em at walmart or you can do the halogen bulb that is what I switched too ammonia gets broken into nitrite which gets broken into nitrate (hope I got the order right if not I am sure someone will correct me) which macro eats up I would personally get a cup of livesand from as many people as possible and I would get a cup of live water from a bunch of people too once the ammonia gets turned I would buy a hearty fish (I personally use mollies ) without a constant input of ammonia the bacteria will not thrive TAKE IT SLOW lol after there is anoying purple crap everywhere you can begin playing slowly I would reccomend Mark Peterson's signature or pm (Private message ) a member of the forum for more info welcome to the addiction! (-:
(307)679-7898 Phillip Douglass 75 Gallon Reef Tank
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Will Spencer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 07 2011 at 7:05pm
Typically when you bring in new live rock there is some die off of organisms on that rock that occurs.  When these things start to rot they produce ammonia.  There are bacteria on the live rock that will consume ammonia and they produce Nitrite as a waste product.  Ammonia is very poisonous to fish and motile inverts, including your snails.  The problem with a new tank is that there is not enough ammonia eating bacteria to eat up all of the ammonia that is being produced.  It takes time for the bacteria to multiply to the point that it there is enough to eat up all of the ammonia.  It will happen, but depending on the amount being produced you may have to wait a while.  Say up to a month or so, but as little as a few days depending on the amount of ammonia being produced and the amount of bacteria already on the rock and sand.  The only way to tell when the ammonia is coming down is to test.

So anyway, now you have Nitrite, which is poisonous, but not as poisonous.  It just so happens there is also bacteria that eat nitrite, and you have to go through the same process with these bacteria.  The good thing is that they are reproducing at the same time as the ammonia eating bacteria so after the ammonia is gone you usually only have to wait a few days for the Nitrites to go too.  Again you have to test to know it is gone.  Nitrite eating bacteria produce Nitrate as waste and though it too is poisonous it is MUCH less so than Nitrite so even if you have some Nitrates in your tank you can still have healthy fish and motile inverts.  (Shrimp, crabs, snails, etc.) 

Nitrites are removed in 2 ways.  First of all there are also bacteria that eat Nitrate, but these bacteria live in low to no oxygen zones, so in our tanks that means deep inside the rock and under deep sandbeds.  These bacteria tend to take their time about eating the nitrates, mostly because the nitrates take their time getting deep enough in the rock or sandbed that they can be eaten.  The second way is to do water changes. 

As I said Nitrates are not nearly as bad as Ammonia and Nitrite, in fact they have been as high as 100 ppm in my tank with only slight effects to the inhabitants of my reef.  It is suggested however that you don't let them get any higher than about 20 ppm and lower is even better.

Once your tank is fully cycled, which means that all of the bacteria has populated to the point that it can handle all the Ammonia and Nitrite being produced in your tank, you are ready to add fish and motile inverts.  The proper readings on your test kits for a tank in ready mode are:

Ammonia - 0 ppm
Nitrite - 0 ppm
Nitrate - less than 20 ppm

As for using algae, yes, algae will consume Nitrate.  It will also consume Ammonia and Nitrite.  In fact it would prefer ammonia, so adding some algae is a great way to help eat up those excess nitrogens.  We typically suggest using Cheato because we have much less problems with it polluting our reefs somewhere down the road, but the faster growing caulerpa algaes will take up these nutrients faster in the beginning.

As for corals, yes corals will also consume these elements because most of them photosynthesize and the algae that grow in them consume them just like macro algae.  However,  I suspect that high ammonia and nitrite concentrations can also be bad for the corals and I'd much rather be patient or try some algae than try corals, even cheap ones, and have them die on me.

At any rate keep testing and pretty soon you'll see your ammonia and nitrite readings at zero.  Honestly, right now the best thing you can do for your aquarium is be patient.  I know it's hard, I've been there and done that and lost patience myself, but you really will be much happier putting corals and fish in your tank a month from now and having them survive than putting them in now and watching them die. 
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thanks for the advise im just waiting it out. in the meantime anybody have any live sand in the southern utah area
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hydro phoenix Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 08 2011 at 7:23pm
how southern Utah are you talking about?
recent absurdity..Unicorns have rabies
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cedar city but i work in st. george
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phys Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 09 2011 at 1:55am
how long can you wait? I go to milford once or twice a month.
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whenever u come down would be fine
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phys Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June 11 2011 at 4:04am
how much and what type of live sand do you need?
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