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Chevmaro 
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 Topic: RO/DI Help
Posted: March 09 2011 at 9:23pm |
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I just got a RO/DI unit. I have it installed and it is working fine but is a little slow. It is a 75 GPD unit and says it will make about 3 gallons of usuable water per hour. I'm only making about 1 gallon per hour. I have it hooked up and mounted under my sink. Does it make a difference if the RO unit is hung high? Will it speed things up if it is hung on the wall and the bucket is on the floor?
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phinfan
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Posted: March 09 2011 at 9:51pm |
What is the water pressure coming into your house? If it is good (50 psi or better) you may have to turn up your regulator and make sure you are getting at least 50 psi going to the RO unit.. I am having the same problem, but my problem is water pressure.
Rick
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Chevmaro
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Posted: March 09 2011 at 9:59pm |
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I didnt get a pressure gauge with mine i bought the cheap one from brs 4 stage economy no features. I'm not sure the pressure i might have to find a gauge. What regulator are you talking about?
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Davidwillis
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Posted: March 09 2011 at 10:27pm |
So you have a RODI unit that runs directly into a bucket? No auto shut off, or float valve?
If that is the case, the most likely thing is you have low water pressure (your house water pressure). Most homes have a pressure regulator in the furnace room (or wherever the water comes into the house). The higher you get the pressure the more water your RO unit will produce, and it will also filter out more impurities. Most membranes are rated based on 60-90 psi (you will have to look up your membrane to see what it is tested at). If they say it will produce 75gpd at 90 psi, and you are running 40-50, then you will not come anywhere near 75gpd.
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Chevmaro
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Posted: March 09 2011 at 10:38pm |
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Alright im going to grab a gauge and test it. Where can i buy one locally?
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phinfan
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Posted: March 09 2011 at 10:57pm |
 Davidwillis wrote:
So you have a RODI unit that runs directly into a bucket? No auto shut off, or float valve?
If that is the case, the most likely thing is you have low water pressure (your house water pressure). Most homes have a pressure regulator in the furnace room (or wherever the water comes into the house). The higher you get the pressure the more water your RO unit will produce, and it will also filter out more impurities. Most membranes are rated based on 60-90 psi (you will have to look up your membrane to see what it is tested at). If they say it will produce 75gpd at 90 psi, and you are running 40-50, then you will not come anywhere near 75gpd. |
I agree with David.
I had South Ogden City come up and check my pressure, after turning my regulator all the way open. You can probably buy a gauge at Home Depot.
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Chevmaro
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Posted: March 09 2011 at 10:59pm |
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I live in an apartment and will not have access to this regulator. It is still making good water just a bit slow if this is what it is then i can live with it. Its still getting the job done.
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Davidwillis
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Posted: March 09 2011 at 11:34pm |
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Your DI unit will take out what the RO unit leaves. The only problem (other than less GPD) is that the extra impurities will use up your DI unit faster. Do you know what your TDS is in your tap water? If you don't, I would find someone close to you that can test it for you. Take a sample of tap water, and some water just after the RO unit and before the DI unit. Test both, then you will know how well it is working. Make sure and let the RO unit run for a little bit (let it make a few glass fulls of water) before taking the sample.
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Davidwillis
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Posted: March 09 2011 at 11:54pm |
Here is what I just posted in a different thread (you asked to post here too).
I used the shurflow 2088-422-444 model pump (I found it on e-bay for about $50, I just searched and found one for $64+12 shipping). It will boost my pressure from 25psi to 90. It makes a big difference in water quality and quantity (obviously with my low pressure). I also tried the permiate pump, but it did very little for me.
By the way, that pump is 12V, so you need to get a power supply for it, or get the park model made for 110v (but it costs more). The power supply is about $20 off ebay (you need to get a 10 amp one).
Edited by Davidwillis - March 09 2011 at 11:54pm
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Chevmaro
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Posted: March 10 2011 at 1:05pm |
I dont know the TDS.
Anybody in here willing to test it for me?
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snoyce
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Posted: March 10 2011 at 5:22pm |
I live in West Jordan and have a the pen style TDS meter, you are welcome to drop by with a sample or borrow it.
My tap water in West Jordan usually tests right around 215 TDS, which is pretty good from what I gather.
Also realize that RO membranes are rated at a input water temp of like 77 degrees, and our water here is much colder in the winter, so that will affect your output rate, I know it sure seems to take longer to fill my 55 gallon in winter than the summer, I chalk it up to the low water temp.
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Scott Noyce
90G reef ready AGA display
basment 20G sump, 29G fuge
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