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ttreef1.16 
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 Topic: Red Slime
Posted: April 11 2014 at 1:15pm |
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I have a Red Sea Max 34gal. and am having a major red slime out break. i have checked all levels, the only thing that was a little high was my ammonia, did a water change and its under control now. what should i do?
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-TYR-
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Posted: April 11 2014 at 1:26pm |
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hermit crabs and snails? and from what I,ve read just keep your lights on as minimally as possible while your algae crew eats it all up.
but im sure others will have better solutions
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Blub Blub
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LaRue
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Posted: April 11 2014 at 2:44pm |
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Dose red slime remover be careful though there is two types one is safe for corals the other isn't most tanks will get a little cyano this time off the year not really sure why they do but it is very common to have an outbreak just as the weather starts to warm back up.
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justchillinuno
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Posted: April 11 2014 at 3:35pm |
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I too am having the same problem, came back from vaca for a week to all my glass covered in maroon algae.... About to move everything to the 90g should i clean it or just not worry if im looking to move things this weekend or next...
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55g - RIP - Moved to 90g
36g Bow holding tank
90g Reef Tank
Dreams of many more!
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: April 11 2014 at 8:31pm |
Just clean things as you move them. Agreed, Spring is sometimes Cyanobacteria time.  It's one of the earth's oldest organisms. Check out the great discussion about eliminating the red slime cyano in the Reefkeeping Tips linked below:
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Reefkeeping Tips, & quick, easy setup tricks:www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9244 Pay it forward - become a paid WMAS member 
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jason
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Posted: April 11 2014 at 8:48pm |
mark u have a mind that remembers everything?
Edited by Jeremyw - April 12 2014 at 8:13pm
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: April 11 2014 at 9:55pm |
 Only the important things.
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Reefkeeping Tips, & quick, easy setup tricks:www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9244 Pay it forward - become a paid WMAS member
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sabeypets
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Posted: April 12 2014 at 12:13am |
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Ammonia should read 0. If your reading Ammonia somethings not right, the tank is not cycled, something has died, livestock added to quickly, over feeding, ect.
Low water flow/dead spots and old light bulbs can also contribute to slime algae.
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Shaun American Fork  "Would you leave a dead cat in your kitchen till tommorow?" Builderofdreams
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builderofdreams
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Posted: April 12 2014 at 7:43pm |
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^^^^ Agreed ^^^^^^
Edited by builderofdreams - April 12 2014 at 7:47pm
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It's Not a Hobby It's an Obsession
150&210 Gallons of Madness and. Sanity! 801-850-4915
http://www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=65135&title=builderofdreams-feedback-post
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Boxerboy
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Posted: May 22 2014 at 7:26am |
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If you can get a turkey baster and blow it all off making sure most of it goes into the overflow/filter, then increase the flow with powerhead(s). Worked like a charm for my biocube! :)
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120G's
Radion/T5 Combo
Vertex 150 Skimmer
Apex Controlled
SPS LPS & Softies
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Softplan
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Posted: May 22 2014 at 8:21am |
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Conchs work great for the sand bed.
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ctreeftank
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Posted: May 22 2014 at 4:15pm |
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Also maracyn for saltwater
dose great on red slime.
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LakeCityReefs
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Posted: May 22 2014 at 6:16pm |
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Hey guys I too just went through a Cyano bloom. My issue was that when I upgraded from a 55 to a 90 Ga I continued to use the same amount of carbon and Phosguard. I doubled the amount of phosguard and it took about a week for the Cyano to disappear. My sand was completely covered with thick red slime and now it's gone.
A couple of noteworthy items I found while researching how to remove this.
- Be careful with some of the Cyano removers as they may require you to remove carbon, add an air stone and turn off your skimmer.
- Cyano is a unique algae that can live with low nitrates but thrives on phosphates.
- There are 2 types of phosphates, organic & inorganic. Our typical phosphate test kits only measure one of them (I can't remember which one).
- Macroalgae only removes phosphates at a rate of 1 part phos. per 1000 parts nitrates.
- Corals do best with phos levels at 0.2. Algae requires phos levels of 0.3 or higher to thrive (not much of a window there).
At the end of this I think that I have learned to let my Phosguard or GFO stay in the reactor until I start to see the first signs of Cyano. If you refresh your phosphate remover as soon as you see cyano it should clear up in a day.
Watch macroalgae growth rate to determine Nitrate levels. If your macro grows a lot in a weeks time then it's time for a water change.
I'm not an expert and these are just my novice observations. Hope this helps somebody else along the way.
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: May 22 2014 at 11:22pm |
 LakeCityReefs wrote:
If you refresh your phosphate remover as soon as you see cyano it should clear up in a day. |
Thanks for sharing your experience. In the "Red Slime/Cyanobacteria of many colors, how to eradicate it." discussion linked directly here and always found in the Reefkeeping Tips below, the input of other hobbyists shows us that Cyanobacteria is a very resilient organism, (neither algae nor bacteria) that can actually "change it's spots" depending on the circumstances. I believe that's how it has lasted for billions of years. There is actually noticeable variance in the pollution levels at which different coral and different algae, even individual colonies of the same exact species from the same parent colony, can either tolerate and/or thrive. Happened in my system just the other day. Aloha 
Edited by Mark Peterson - May 22 2014 at 11:37pm
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