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RODI Unit

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Hogie View Drop Down
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    Posted: May 08 2014 at 10:40am
I bought a brs 5 stage plus RODI unit, but I'm not sure it's functioning correctly. Coming out of the RO filter, the water reading is 12 TDS going into the DI canister. It shows it coming out as 0 from the DI, but that seems really high going in. Also, how accurate is the meter? Is it better to get a hand held for more accurate readings?

The other question is the system pressure is about 38 and the instructions recommend being above 50. Is there any way to raise that without buying a booster pump?

Edited by Hogie - May 08 2014 at 10:41am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ReefdUp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 08 2014 at 10:51am
I assume it is a 75gpd membrane? If so, they have a 98% rejection rate. What does your tap water measure? Let's say it was 100...you should have a TDS of 2 coming out of your RO. 12 is high, but not horribly unreasonable, depending on your supply water. If you don't have a 75gpd membrane, then 12 is reasonable since other output membranes aren't as efficient.

As for your pressure...booster pumps are all I know. I have the opposite problem. My water pressure is near 100.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aceofspadeskb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 08 2014 at 11:03am
For the pressure problem, you can sometimes increase pressure by limiting how much RO line you are using.  I increased my pressure by 10 psi by cutting out about 3 feet of line out of the feed.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hogie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 08 2014 at 11:14am
It is the 75 gph membrane.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote millsu2 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 08 2014 at 11:20am
Check your water main shutoff valve in your house. If there is something like the pic below next to the valve it is probably a pressure regulator. You can try adjusting the screw to increase pressure. It is used to reduce pressure so you don't damage any fixtures if you have 115psi like my parents do. I think most newer homes have them and seems like most the plumbers tend to turn the pressure low when they install them. Probably since higher pressure might reveal some lesser quality work...


If the pressure from the city coming in to your home is low, then a pump is mostly all that can help. Using a larger diameter and/or shorter piping will reduce pressure loss, but won't increase pressure.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark Peterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 08 2014 at 7:04pm
Thumbs Up All good tips and advice.
If you still live in Centerville, the tap water is pretty clean, cleaner than most cities. The latest water quality report shows average TDS for all wells is 212 ppm. Here is the link to the very brief summarized 2013 report. http://www.centervilleut.net/downloads/water/centerville_ccr_2013.pdf
To have 12 ppm coming out of the RO is probably an indicator of low water pressure. When I lived there, Centerville had good water pressure so it's probably a Pressure Reducing Valve at the house water main keeping the pressure down, like millsu2 suggested. The valve is usually located where the water line enters the house. I believe to increase the pressure that bolt on the top of the valve(pictured in millsu2's post) is turned clockwise as though it is being tightened. I believe that typical RO Membranes perform best at 60-80 psi.

This is unlikely, but if the membrane is more than 2 years old, is poor quality or defective it could have developed a flow through leak where the membrane is deteriorating. A little tap water flowing through a teeny hole can contaminate the product water. They are supposed to produce 5000 gallons of purified water.

I don't use DI so I usually wait until the water is at 20+ TDM before I change the membrane. There is plenty of life to eat up the hard water that's leaking through, especially when some of the major minerals in tap water around Utah are Calcium, Alkalinity and even Magnesium Smile (the summarized water quality report does not indicate this but it's true).

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