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some1h8sme
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Topic: Peppermint Shrimp Dying Posted: January 20 2005 at 12:31am |
Well if anyone has seen this or has a suggestion I would love to know what may be happening in my tank.
I bought 2 small peppermint shrimp and 2 false percs clowns the other day. I acclamated them to my water temp and then poured a cup of my tank water in their bags, waited a half hour, then poured another cup in, waited another half hour. Then I scooped them out with my hand and placed them in my tank. When I put them in my tank they started to sway on their legs. I didn't think much about it, but less than 24 hours later one is dead and eaten (clowns, hermits?) and the other is laying on it's side dying. 
Here are some of my tank specs:
30 Gallon Eclipse tall
245 GPH mechanical filter
dual 18 watt florecents
dual 165 ghp maxi jets
blue led night light
100 watt heater
Average temp 77 - 78
Specific Gravity 1.023
PH 8.0 - 8.2
Nitrates <5 mg/L
KH 110 mg/L
Any one have an idea as to why they might have croaked?
The clowns seem to be doing alright, but I don't want the same thing that killed the shrimp to kill the clowns.
Thanks,
John
Draper UT
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kethomps
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Posted: January 20 2005 at 12:35am |
There are many different ways to acclimate your corals/fish. I
have tried several and the most successful method I have found is:
pour 1/2 - 3/4 cup (depending upon the bag size) every 15 minutes - 3 times
after the 3rd time pour 1/2 of the water out and start over, adding 1/2-3/4 cup every 15 minutes 3 more times.
Any method works as long as you have given them as close to what your tank water is into the bag.
I don't think 1 cup twice is enough.
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210g sw fish
West Jordan
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Jamison
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Posted: January 20 2005 at 9:03am |
I've found that most inverts like a slow, steady acclimation. I've lost peppermints and cleaner shrimp that way too. Since I changed my acclimation strategy though, I haven't lost anything. It's way easier than standing by your tank for an hour or two puring water in once in a while. I bought a 6 foot piece of very thin rubber hose at MSM. I put the new arrivals in a bucket with the water they came with. I stick one end of the tube in my tank and tie the other end in a very loose knot. I then suck the water through the tube (siphon) and then tighten the knot till it drips a drop or two per second. I come back in a couple hours with my net, and put the acclimated critters into my tank. Cheap, easy, and works like a dream. HTH.
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Kull
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Posted: January 20 2005 at 10:32am |
I find that using a drip line over a period of a couple of hours works best for me.
I place the new critters in a large bucket with a heater and small power head and then start a drip. I drip probably about 4 - 6 cups an hour, and then once I am satisified that the water conditions are equal (usually about 3 - 4 times the original water volumn (if not more)). Then I quickly move the critters to there new home.
Rapid changes in specific gravity will do inverts in. The drip line ensures that the specific gravity will change very slowly.
I hope that the other shrimp that you have makes it. Good luck.
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Jake Pehrson
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Posted: January 20 2005 at 10:47am |
I really doubt they died because of your acclimation procedure (but it is possible). How long were they in the bag before you added them to your aquarium?
Do you have any other inverts in your tank?
Do you test for ammonia or nitrite?
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some1h8sme
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Posted: January 20 2005 at 1:36pm |
I tested for ammonia and nitrites about a week ago and they almost none existant. There are hermit crabs and astrial snails in the tank. The LFS's salinity was 1.021. I was told that if I am going to acclamate them for longer than 30 minutes, to place them in a bucket with an airstone instead. I will try the "drip" method mentioned an see what happens.
Thanks,
John
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pmpt
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Posted: January 20 2005 at 1:40pm |
If you don't mind me asking, what LFS? I do the drip method, but never used an airstone or powerhead, and have never had any problems with it. I usually only to it for about an hour though. But thats the longest I do it. It can range anywhere from 30 minutes to one hour.
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Carl
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Posted: January 20 2005 at 1:42pm |
I usually do an abbreviated acclimation on inverts. . But, so far I have not lost one like you describe. I float the bag, do a bit of water acclimation and off they go. I would say either they were not feeling well to begin with or they were MURDERED!
Do you have other shrimp/crabs/invert eaters in your tank? If not, I say Col. Mustard in the study with the candlestick.
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: January 20 2005 at 1:46pm |
Dang, I've been doing it all wrong
I check the temp in the bag with my finger compared to the tank. If it's lower in the tank, I float the bag for 10 minutes. Otherwise I just dump them in, water and all.
I rarely lose inverts (this includes coral) with this dumb method! My fish method is slightly different but equally "dumb."
I'd look at whether you have any other inverts that are having problems. For instance, if all the hermit crabs are fine, then it was most likely either the shrimp themselves that were not well or they were handled poorly enroute from the ocean to your tank. They probably wouldn't have survived for me either.
I've had problems with fish this way. I went back to the LFS and bought another pair. They both died too, but I don't blame the store because I've bought plenty from them that lived. If you can afford it, try a different batch of peppermints from a different store that hopefully got them from a different supplier.
My 2 cents.
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pmpt
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Posted: January 20 2005 at 1:50pm |
Also to add to what Mark said, ask to see how long they've (the shrimp) been at the store. Sometimes the store has just barely gotten the shrimp in, and just barely put them out. Make sure that the livestock has been at the store for a day or two and are doing okay. That might elimitate some deaths you have.
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: January 20 2005 at 1:51pm |
BTW, your forum name may be suspect as well
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Jake Pehrson
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Posted: January 20 2005 at 2:18pm |
Mark Peterson wrote:
Dang, I've been doing it all wrong
I check the temp in the bag with my finger compared to the tank. If it's lower in the tank, I float the bag for 10 minutes. Otherwise I just dump them in, water and all.
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Yea, me too!
The only thing I do different is I will usually chuck the water if it came from a pet store.
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: January 20 2005 at 2:36pm |
Jake Pehrson wrote:
...chucking the water... |
At first I thought it was a typo, then realized it wasn't. Am I right?
Oh man, you know what I just realized?
I can't imagine that a new hobbyist could catch a Peppermint Shrimp by hand. I have trouble doing that and I've been at this for 12 years. As soon as it was in your hand it would jump out and if you tried to keep it in you might smash it. UNless there is something else, I'll bet they were goners before they got to the tank. That's why they could be caught and moved by hand. Sorry.
Now I'm not saying this is the reason those PS died, but here is some info about trasporting organisms.
The problems that can happen with transporting things is:
1. Bags get cold or hot so easily depending on the weather and placement in the car.
2. Bags can easily crush things that go to a corner and when the bag shifts...crunch.
3. Over time Urea (pee) builds up to the point that it turns to killer ammonia as soon as the container is opened to the air. Slow acclimatization is the worst thing to do in a situation like this. In cases like these especially, the best thing is to open the container and immediatly, if not sooner dump the thing in the water or if it's a fish don't dump the water into the tank if it came from a pet store, because of copper/formalin.
EDIT> I hope you don't hate me but I just went back and reread the original post. The things were in the bags for about 1.5 hours not including the trip home. Please tell me I am wrong, but if they were already compromised because of things out of your control, the acclimation procedure you described did not help. Sorry.
Edited by Mark Peterson
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Jake Pehrson
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Posted: January 20 2005 at 5:58pm |
Mark Peterson wrote:
I can't imagine that a new hobbyist could catch a Peppermint Shrimp by hand. I have trouble doing that and I've been at this for 12 years. As soon as it was in your hand it would jump out and if you tried to keep it in you might smash it. |
Mark, ever heard of a net? Catch the shrimp with a small soft net. Add to your aquarium. Viola no jumping shrimp. Oh, and just for the record I have caught many peppermints by hand without them jumping, you just have to make them feel comfortable and they will just lay there in your hand. Maybe you don't have the gentle touch like I do.
Mark Peterson wrote:
3. Over time Urea (pee) builds up to the point that it turns to killer ammonia as soon as the container is opened to the air. Slow acclimatization is the worst thing to do in a situation like this. In cases like these especially, the best thing is to open the container and immediatly, if not sooner dump the thing in the water or if it's a fish don't dump the water into the tank if it came from a pet store, because of copper/formalin. |
Good points Mark. That is why I ask how long the shrimp had been in the bag. I am sure we have posted this info multiple times on the message board. Keep in mind that urine can not only be convert into ammonia, but contains a large amount of ammonia to begin with. Increasing the oxygen in a fish bag (via air stone, adding tank water, etc) with a high concentration of ammonia can be very deadly.
Here is how it works (Jon or others chemists correct me if I am wrong).
-Ammonia is less toxic the lower the pH and temp -A fish is placed in a bag with normal Oxygen, CO2, and PH, and Temp and little or no ammonia. -As the fish breaths the CO2 goes up, the Oxygen goes down, and in turn the PH begins to lower. In the mean time the fish defecates in the bag and increases the ammonia levels. Also the temp will often drop. This would usually be bad, but works to our advantage because the ammonia is now less toxic due to the decrease in pH and temp. -When you get home and open the bag the oxygen levels will slowly start to increase and the pH and temp will slowly start to rise. If you add a airstone or start adding tank water this will quickly raise the pH and temp, in turn changing all the less toxic ammonia (NH4+) to highly toxic ammonia (NH3). This can burn the gills of the fish or invert doing irreversible damage, or just out right poison them to death.
Obviously the longer the fish is in the bag the more problems you will have. If you buy a fish or invert and take it right home, most of the stuff mentioned above doesn't have time to take place and therefore slowly acclimating your specimen is completely fine (although I still don't do it).
Here is a chart I found (not sure if it is correct).
Table 1. Un-ionized NH3 as a percent of total ammonia (by temperature and pH).
| Percent NH3 of total ammonia
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Temp (F)
| pH 6.5
| pH 7.0
| pH 7.5
| pH 8.0
| pH 8.5
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68
| .13
| .40
| 1.24
| 8.82
| 11.2
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77
| .18
| .57
| 1.77
| 5.38
| 15.3
|
82
| .22
| .70
| 2.17
| 6.56
| 18.2
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86
| .26
| .80
| 2.48
| 7.46
| 20.3 |
But notice when the pH and/or the temp goes down the percent of NH3 or highly toxic ammonia goes down also.
I'm not sure if any of that made sense, but there you go anyway.
One last point.
Pet store water has cooties.
Edited by Jake Pehrson
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jfinch
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Posted: January 20 2005 at 6:28pm |
How long do you think a fish would need to be in the bag for this to become problematic? Which do you think would be more stressful; the sudden shock of being thrown into good water (sudden increase in pH) or a more gradual pH increase but with an increase in bad ammonia (NH4+ --> NH3)? Just curious.
BTW, I'm not much of an acclimation person myself. Sometime I float the bag for a few minutes, but most times I just grab the critter and drop it into the tank. The bag water goes down the drain in almost all cases, unless the critter is a sponge in which case it stays submerged. I'm not advocating my actions as I'm not sure that it's "best practice", it's just what I do.
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Jake Pehrson
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Posted: January 20 2005 at 10:05pm |
jfinch wrote:
How long do you think a fish would need to be in the bag for this to become problematic? Which do you think would be more stressful; the sudden shock of being thrown into good water (sudden increase in pH) or a more gradual pH increase but with an increase in bad ammonia (NH4+ --> NH3)? Just curious.
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I think if the fish has been in the bag for an hour or more then I would just throw him in the tank (although I do that no matter what).
I guess it could be tested to see how fast the water in the bag changes, but it really depends on a lot of factors. Initial pH, size of bag, amount of water, respiration rate of the fish, alkalinity of the water, etc.
And lastly, although pH shock can be lethal I think ammonia is much more lethal.
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Chris
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Posted: January 20 2005 at 11:08pm |
Mark Peterson wrote:
I can't imagine that a new hobbyist could catch a Peppermint Shrimp by hand. I have trouble doing that and I've been at this for 12 years. As soon as it was in your hand it would jump out and if you tried to keep it in you might smash it. UNless there is something else, I'll bet they were goners before they got to the tank. That's why they could be caught and moved by hand. |
Mark I have only been in the hobby for about 4 months now and I caught 2 peppermint shrimp by hand over a month ago. It was not any harder or easier then catching a fish by hand. My shrimp lived fine in the tank for about 12 hours before they ended up in the overflow. They have been living in the overflow now for over a month just fine.
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some1h8sme
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Posted: January 21 2005 at 1:01am |
I caught the two shrimp with my hand out of the bag. They were a pain to scoop up as they kept cramming themselfs into the corner of the bag. When they did that I would back off so I would not harm them trying to get them out of the corner. When I finally nabbed them, they would just lay in my hand.
Anyways I thought I would give everyone an update.
So I come home from school at 10:30 PM and look at my tank. To my amazement, the one shrimp is still alive but is still looks like he does not have control of his legs. In fact his legs look like someone took a tiny billy club to them and broke them. So here is the kicker; my 4 year old daughter points to a dark part in the rocks and says, "Daddy. There is the other shrimp." Sure enough, in the dark recesses of some of the live rock there is the other shrimp; heathly looking and swaying side to side.  Seems the remains I saw were the shell of the other shrimp that is not doing so well right now. If I am correct, he molted. ??? So then, I have another questoin. Has anyone seen this before where a shrimp will molt and then loose funtionality of its legs?
BTW thank you for all your responses and help. 
Thanks,
John
Draper UT
30 gal SW
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pmpt
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Posted: January 21 2005 at 9:29am |
Same thing happened to me with my first cleaner shrimp. It molted the day I put him in my tank and I thought he was dead. Then a day or two later I found him behind some rocks. But I've never seen them lose the functions of their legs.
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some1h8sme
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Posted: January 21 2005 at 12:24pm |
It was more of he shed his legs he walks on. Like they just fell right off. So now he has nubs and he trys to get around on the legs they scavange with. When I fed the clowns this morining I watched a flake float near him and he jumped up and grabbed it. That thing ate it so fast I wasn't sure where the flake went for a moment.
Anyone know if his back legs will grow out? If so, how fast do they usually grow?
Thanks,
John
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