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Kirklan
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Topic: Refugium/Sump Setup Posted: January 21 2004 at 10:11am |
Hi All! I hope to go to the 2/5 WMAS meeting on tank setups and hopefully refugium/sump setup will be included, but for now I have a few questions. I currently have a 55g fish only tank that I will be turning into a reef tank. During this process I plan on adding a refugium/sump to my tank underneath in the cabinet. I was thinking a 20L would be a great size for the tank. I would like to incorporate all of my equipment that is currently hanging in the display tank, heater, HOB skimmer, and power filter (to run carbon) into this setup. I would also like to incorporate a refugium to grow some macro for nutrient export. I would like your opinions on the idea i have for the setup. I was thinking of spliting the tank into 5/10/5 sections (or a 12/8g sections). I would use an SOS hangon overflow rated up to 600GPH (my tank is not drilled). The first 5g section would house the skimmer, heater, and power filter. The 10 would house the refugium and then the last 5 would hold a Mag7 (should I go bigger?) rated for 450 gph @ 12ft head and a 4ft rise. I would split the return from the pump with either a T fitting or an SCWD. Any ideas on this would be great.
Second set of questions I have is:
1) Will my refug/sump have enough volume to hold the excess water from the SOS overflow in case of a power outage before it breaks the siphon?
2) Has anyone had problems with their external overflow boxes not starting the siphon up again after a power outage? (Pump runs dry and frys) Should I use a float switch to prevent the pump from turning on in this case (obviously) or should I not worry about it.
3) Has anyone had a back siphon from the main tank back through the return line and through the pump overflowing the sump in a power outage? Is there a one way check valve I can use IF this is a problem?
Any suggestions would be great!! And I hope this was not to long of a post.
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SE Idaho
67G Rimless Reef
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Kirklan
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Posted: January 21 2004 at 12:16pm |
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I think I will probably go with a Lifereef overflow and mabey a Mag9.5.
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SE Idaho
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Carl
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Posted: January 21 2004 at 12:27pm |
Seems like sumps have been a pretty active topic here lately. Kirk, you could do a search by keywork on sumps here and come up with a plethera of information regarding all of the concerns that you have, but I will offer my opinion.
Yes, you may experience every one of the issues that you addressed above or you may experience none. It really depends on how you plumb things. I do not have experience with the external overflows, so I will defer on that, but I have heard that they do lose prime. However, I do believe that someone has a fix that worked for them that I am sure they will share.
As for sump capacity to handle the volume in case of a power outage... it really depends on siphon breaks. Can you use a check valve? Sure, but it usually constricts the return line. You also need to gauge free volume are of the sump. The skimmer, pump, filtration, sand, rock, etc all take away from your true containment capacity.
Also, consider placement of the returns especially if you are using one of those octopus wavemaker thingies. As an example, a friend installed one of them for his 120-gal. Problem is that it had a rigid mount that set it about 4" below the surface. It also did not have a check valve installed. So when his power went out, so did the water... all over his floor.
You may want to consider freeing up volume by hanging some of the components on the back of the sump. That is an easy way to free up room. Just my thoughts.
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In Syracuse
"I believe that forgiving them is God's function. Our job is simply to arrange the meeting." - Gen. H. Norman Schwarzkopf
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Kirklan
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Posted: January 21 2004 at 1:32pm |
Thanks for the respone. I have read every post on "sump" going back about a year. I know my design and processes are pretty good, just wondering if anyone has had overflow problems in the past and what they did to resolve them. Does anyone worry about a back siphon from the main tank into the sump or am I being anal?  From what I understand the Lifereef external overflow boxes never loose their prime after a power outage. I guess I'll just put it all together an give it a try. Any more input would be appreciated. Thanks.
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SE Idaho
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Jake Pehrson
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Posted: January 21 2004 at 3:28pm |
Let me start out by saying that I would never (again) use and external overflow box. IMO there is no completely safe external overflow box. I know many people have used them for years and are going to argue with, but there is always a chance that something will go wrong.
I think the best options are to drill your tank or buy a new one.
That said here are some thoughts.
Kirklan wrote:
2) Has anyone had problems with their external overflow boxes not starting the siphon up again after a power outage? (Pump runs dry and frys) Should I use a float switch to prevent the pump from turning on in this case (obviously) or should I not worry about it.
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A float valve would help me sleep better at night.
Also worse then frying a pump is overflowing your main tank because the siphon broke.
Kirklan wrote:
3) Has anyone had a back siphon from the main tank back through the return line and through the pump overflowing the sump in a power outage? Is there a one way check valve I can use IF this is a problem?
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Yes, I would worry about back siphon from the main tank. There are check valves, but they reduce flow and they are not 100% effective (a single grain of sand can keep the valve open a little), but what choice do you have?
I would use a check valve (maybe 2)and keep a return line close to the water surface in the main tank to make sure the siphon breaks when the power goes out.
Edited by Jake Pehrson
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Skyetone
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Posted: January 21 2004 at 5:31pm |
Wow I am new and get to post some tech. 
I just built a sump for my 80 gallon. It runs a U over the top (marks ark) and drains to the 30 gallon on the floor. I built plastic wall deviders in the sump tank.
Here is the long and short of it. Calculate the LxWxdepth of the big tank. In my case its 48x18x4inches deep=14.9 gallongs right. Tharts where your syphion break begins. So make sure that your lower tank say.... 36x12xsay10 inches deep worth of air room. Thats 18.7 gallons your sump can take. Obviosly you are safe.
I have about 2 gallong that would flow back to the big tank if say the sump got clogged. The big tank can handle that.
Starting the syphon again???? I don't know yet :D I hope my power heads will work that out. :D
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I will just give my warning that your system will flood, bulbs will burn out, and things will take continuous maintenance... get over it.
Magna
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chrisslc
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Posted: January 21 2004 at 9:26pm |
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Everyone else has covered all your questions it seems. I would just add that rather than running a seperate power filter for the carbon, I would incorporate a slot between the first and second chamber and block it with a carbon filled bag. This ensures a 100% water passage instead of drawing off a reduced amount of the volume of water passing through the sump.
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jfinch
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Posted: January 21 2004 at 9:57pm |
It runs a U over the top (marks ark) and drains to the 30 gallon on the floor
If all you have is a u-bend directly in the tank, then you're only one power failure from a very wet floor and possible burned up pump!
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: January 21 2004 at 11:21pm |
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That has been my concern with Skyetone's set-up as well.
We seem to tackle this problem a couple times monthly, with one newbie after another. We need to get some kind of explanatory document to which we can refer guests.
Some time ago I wrote a document that explains over the top overflows, and water returns. It also cautions about how to avoid floods during power outages, but it is still lacking at explaining "in tank skimmer boxes". If we could add that and include drilled set-ups that would be great.
Anyone want to read, edit and add to it?
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Reefkeeping Tips, & quick, easy setup tricks:www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9244 Pay it forward - become a paid WMAS member
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Kirklan
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Posted: January 22 2004 at 7:03am |
Well I guess nothing is 100% fool proof, right! I was just looking for some opinions on the overflow siphon boxes and what issues anyone has had with loosing siphon or a backflow siphon from the main tank into the sump. Maybe I just need to buy a 120 with dual overflows and use my 55g as a sump (wish me luck getting that past the wife).  Anyone know who has the best tank prices in town (Wasatch Front)? Skyetone, I would highly suggest an overflow box for your tank if your not using one, try Lifereef.com.
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chrisslc
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Posted: January 22 2004 at 7:11am |
I guess there are a few questions remaining . A useful bit of advice that I found here and like is to put a piece of plastic mesh or bridal veil over the top of the overflow box. This keeps roving turbo snails from clogging your U-tubes, overflowing your tank, and running your pump dry . of course multiple overflows helps with this but even reducing your overflow if you've got a pretty good return flow can be disastrous.
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Kirklan
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Posted: January 22 2004 at 7:12am |
chrisslc wrote:
Everyone else has covered all your questions it seems. I would just add that rather than running a seperate power filter for the carbon, I would incorporate a slot between the first and second chamber and block it with a carbon filled bag. This ensures a 100% water passage instead of drawing off a reduced amount of the volume of water passing through the sump. |
This is a good idea. Then I wouldn't have to have hanging space for the power filter and would maximize water flow through the carbon.
A question for those of you with large tanks. Do you drip kalkwasser for evap water, dose B-Ionic (or other 2 part additive) or do you have a calcium reactor? If I go for a bigger tank than a 55 I would like to be able to keep my costs down but still be as maintenance free as possible.
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Kirklan
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Posted: January 22 2004 at 7:16am |
chrisslc wrote:
I guess there are a few questions remaining . A useful bit of advice that I found here and like is to put a piece of plastic mesh or bridal veil over the top of the overflow box. This keeps roving turbo snails from clogging your U-tubes, overflowing your tank, and running your pump dry . of course multiple overflows helps with this but even reducing your overflow if you've got a pretty good return flow can be disastrous.
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Ahh yes, that would be where the safety float switch would come in handy. Once you tank drops to much it would of course turn your pump off.
Edited by Kirklan
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Carl
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Posted: January 22 2004 at 8:02am |
Kirklan wrote:
A question for those of you with large tanks. Do you drip kalkwasser for evap water, dose B-Ionic (or other 2 part additive) or do you have a calcium reactor? If I go for a bigger tank than a 55 I would like to be able to keep my costs down but still be as maintenance free as possible.
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Personally, I dose but I am also not dealing with alot of stonies at this point yet. The Ca Reactor is in the near future for me though. For tank prices, I looked around ALOT before I switched mine out. I had a 125 without overflows that I was told could be bottom drilled even though it had tempered glass. (boy was I stupid) But I found Aquatic Dreams had the cheapest prices on tanks that I could find. I think I paid $350 for mine, but it might have been less. Call around to be sure though. And, if you get to that point let me know and I will impart some of my recent experiences with setting up the new tank and moving everything over. Some things I have learned the hard way.
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In Syracuse
"I believe that forgiving them is God's function. Our job is simply to arrange the meeting." - Gen. H. Norman Schwarzkopf
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Kirklan
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Posted: January 22 2004 at 8:35am |
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Thanks a lot Carl!
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SE Idaho
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KeoDog
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Posted: January 22 2004 at 12:18pm |
Kirklan wrote:
A question for those of you with large tanks. Do you drip kalkwasser for evap water, dose B-Ionic (or other 2 part additive) or do you have a calcium reactor? If I go for a bigger tank than a 55 I would like to be able to keep my costs down but still be as maintenance free as possible.
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On both my 72g and my 300g all I use is Turbo calcium and homemade buffer. About once a month I might add some Kents Essential Elements.
Edited by KeoDog
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Kevin Kunz (Sandy, UT)
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Kirklan
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Posted: January 22 2004 at 1:30pm |
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When you say "Turbo Calcium", is this a calcium reactor, additive, or a DIY? If I upgrade my tank I would like to make it as automated as possible but keep the costs as low as possible also. I am interested in any DIY ideas for a Calc reactor, sump and anything else.
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Will Spencer
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Posted: January 22 2004 at 3:08pm |
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Many people here seem to dislike the hang on overflow boxes. I have had one for 2 months now and have had not problem with it. (Except it kind of looks ugly.) It made it through the christmas power outages famously. I have not had one problem with the siphon breaking. During the Christmas outages our power came and went about 20 times over 5 days. At first everytime the power came back on I'd run downstairs to make sure everything was OK, but after several times I just let it do it's thing.
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Marcus
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Posted: January 22 2004 at 5:02pm |
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Turbo Calcium is an additive from Kent. Other manufacturers make a similar product but Kent's is pretty well known.
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jfinch
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Posted: January 22 2004 at 6:07pm |
Turbo Calcium = CaCl2
Homemade Buffer = let Kevin give his mix. If it were me, it would be 6 parts baking soda and 1 part washing soda. It's also common to add a small amount of Borax to the mix, although I would probably pass on it.
Kirklan, search around on balanced methods of calcium/alkalinity supplements vs. unbalanced methods. I would guess that most people prefer a balanced approach which excludes the daily use of Turbo Calcium and "buffer" in favor of B-ionic, kalkwasser or CaCO3/CO2 reactor.
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