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oskrcg
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Topic: RO/DI system good or bad for reef tank?? Posted: October 21 2009 at 1:05am |
Hi, someone can tell me the pros and coins of using a RO/DI system into a reef tank.
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I'm new in salt water aquariums
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TriggerHappy
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Posted: October 21 2009 at 1:47am |
All pros except for one...it takes a while to do a large water change even if you have a 100 gpd membrane. My advice? Get one, and also invest in a permeate pump; they help pump water faster, reduce waste, and increase your filter/membrane life. Also get a large storage tank.
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210 gallon Mixed Reef
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Jeffs_little_ocean
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Posted: October 21 2009 at 8:28am |
Can someone explain how a RO/DI unit works and what the differnce is between a 2 canister or 3 and what it is taking out of the water that can harm your tank? Ive always gotten free RO/DI but recently moved away from my source and have just been using dechlorinate tap and my tank appears to doing fine, but I know I eventually want to get a RO/DI I just dont know what kind?
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TriggerHappy
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Posted: October 21 2009 at 10:58am |
Here is a good site with the information you want:
or better yet:
My RO/DI consists of a four canister unit.
1 10 Micron prefilter 1 5 Micron Carbon block 1 1 Micron Carbon block 1 DI
Hope this helps!
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210 gallon Mixed Reef
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tavita47
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Posted: October 21 2009 at 11:52am |
there's also some good videos on youtube
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dons
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Posted: October 21 2009 at 4:22pm |
You really can't go wrong with the RO/DI systems. You can also get them with a tap so you can have the water at your faucet to drink. If that is the case make sure that the one you buy has a separate line for the faucet so you get the water before it goes through the DI part of the system.
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bfessler
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Posted: October 21 2009 at 6:50pm |
Yup.
They're all good. The only down side I can even think of is the waste water but you can save that up as well if you want and water you plants.
From what I know about them they remove phosphates and other impuraties that would increase the growth of algae and my algae doesn't need any outside help.
Edited by bfessler - October 21 2009 at 6:50pm
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Burt
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pa_reptileman_4
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Posted: October 21 2009 at 7:02pm |
as for the water change problems i have a 30g holding barrel i fill up before i do a water change it also allows water to get to room temp before i use it.
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pitiful guppy tank.
shane
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oskrcg
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Posted: October 21 2009 at 7:48pm |
But it is true that RO/ID system will affects the level of trace elements, magnesium and other minerals??
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I'm new in salt water aquariums
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bfessler
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Posted: October 21 2009 at 7:50pm |
If you are using quality reef salt it has all the trace elements and minerals you need. The salt mixes are designed to be used with RODI Water.
Edited by bfessler - October 21 2009 at 7:52pm
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Burt
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: October 21 2009 at 8:10pm |
In this hobby, there is no need to buy a water purification unit that includes the final step of de-ionizing. Reverse Osmosis water is perfectly fine for a good reef setup. From that point what makes more of a difference is to have 1)the biological filtration working at top capacity, 2)the water circulation at maximum efficiency, 3)the lighting matched to the organisms kept and 4)the Alkalinity, Calcium and other water parameters in balance.
Going from the most pure water to the least pure water the processes below are listed in order:
RO/DI
Distilled water
RO
Kold-Steril
Kalkwasser treated water
Activated Carbon filtered water
Tapwater
In my experience, all of these waters can work for the reef aquarium but RO or Kold-Steril are the most efficient and best value for the money and effort spent.
The health food stores around here have RO water for 25 cents/gallon. For a tank under 55 gallons, that almost beats the cost of buying an RO unit. Kold-steril wastes absolutely no water so if you are a conservation minded health food nut like me, I would recommend Kold-steril purified water.
Edited by Mark Peterson - October 21 2009 at 8:19pm
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Posted: October 21 2009 at 8:30pm |
I would disagree with Kold-Steril water, We use to have 2 of these units in our store years ago and found the water coming out really wasn't all that great. you can do a simple TDS test before and after and decide if a 30 to 50 TDS drop is really worth it. Our water at the store coming in was 280TDS after Kold Steril 240 to me that still isnt great water.
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Corey Price
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Posted: October 21 2009 at 9:32pm |
RO is the way to go for our reefs IMHO. It really helps keep nuisance algae and other stuff from taking over our reef tanks by limiting nutrients introduced. If you're not worried about algae, then I don't know if it matters.
So to answer your question, the Pros are:
1. Algae nutrient removal (helps to reduce the hair algae, cyano, and other stuff).
2. Harmful chemical removal, such as copper compounds.
3. Salt mixes are geared for it.
Cons:
1. Removes helpful chemicals, such as calcium and magnesium.
2. Costs money.
3. Adds to maintenance for filter replacement, etc.
4. Wastes a lot of water, even with a permeate pump.
I think DI isn't necessary for a reef. Maybe I'll change my mind at some future time, but I know plenty of people who don't use it.
There are some people with water that has 200 ppm TDS and don't use RO at all. It all depends upon what chemicals make up that 200 ppm.
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: October 22 2009 at 9:39am |
Eric I believe that you know better. In your statement about minimal reduction in TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) being the reason for not recommending Kold-steril, you fail to recognize the simple fact of what the Kold-steril unit removes and what it leaves in the water.
Have you ever tested the TDS of saltwater? If memory serves, it's around 5000 ppm. The make up of that 5000 is the Sodium, Chlorine, Calcium, Carbonates, Mg and other elements that make up salt water.
The Total Dissolved Solids in Kold-steril water is Calcium, Carbonates, Magnesium and other molecules that are needed by a reef tank. The Kold-steril media removes Copper, Sulfer, Nitrogen and other harmful compounds leaving the rest for the aquarium to utilize. Because the media is removing the harmful compounds and leaving the useful ones, the tank then requires less supplemental additions of Alkalinity, Calcium, Magnesium, etc.
Reverse Osmosis membranes and De-ionization media remove practically everything from the water. Even after mixing in the salt, the later addition of extra Alk, Ca, Mg, etc. is needed to replace the Alk, Ca, and Mg which was removed.
So let's get past the erroneous idea that TDS is bad, because it all depends on the actual compounds that comprise those solids.
As an example of the usefulness of the Kold-steril media, one of my last aquariums was salvaged from an abandoned home. The 75 gal tank had totally died. The water had evaporated down to about 25 gallons and large dead fish had been floating for months in this extreme hyper-saline water. I removed the tank to my house and refilled it with good water. The rock started to recover but after a few months algae and coral just wouldn't flourish. One night it hit me. I should run the water through Kold-steril media in a HOB filter. Within two weeks, the aquarium came to life. It was as if it had been resurrected from the dead. I don't know if the previous owner had used copper or had simply over medicated the tank with something, but the Kold-steril media allowed the tank to regain it's life.
I have a friend who has used Kold-steril water exclusively for almost 10 years. He rarely adds supplements and water changes occur every 2-3 months. For a tank that old, getting practically no Alk, Ca or other supplementation I'd say it looks fantastic:
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Posted: October 22 2009 at 10:18am |
I think TDS plays a huge part in all this, So let me ask this does anyone and i mean anyone know what there TDS number is and in what PPM of the minerals ar left or even whats left over? I would have to say i bet almost no one does. To say that your friends aquarium never needed any supplement doesn't mean this aquarium had all the trace elements it needed, There are many factors to consider. By the looks of the aquarium picture above there doesn't seem to be a lot of sps/lps nor calcifying corals, with mushrooms and leathers and most things in that aquarium there is no demand for calcium,alk,mag so i would say that this is very miss leading to the average hobbyist. There is also another huge problem with kold steril as the post below mentions, Unlike r/o units where you use the TDS to know when its time to change filters kold steril units need to be changed by how much water is used threw, So you must keep track of every gal gone threw this unit to know when it's time to change the filters no testing nothing!! Here is good post i found, Kold Steril and R/O units are two completely DIFFERENT systems, operating on different principles and producing different results. Each one is supposedly very good in what it does, which is different.
Kold Steril, as the name implies, offers "cold sterilization" i.e. it passes the water through a 0.2 micron filter membrane, removing 99.9% of all "bugs" (except viruses). The product water is bacterially sterile. If a bit of chlorine was added at the outset, then most viruses would be also inactivated.
The Kold Steril SYSTEM has an ion exchange membrane and activated carbon unit added. They DO remove some heavy metals and organics but not all. However, on the Kold Steril site (http://www.marine-monsters.com/front/products/koldsteril.html) I could NOT find the capacity of the system, i.e. what volume of a given water a cartridge will process, just a warning that the manufacturer's directions on replacing spent units must be followed to obtain the advertised results. That gives me something to think about!
If you need sterile water, with essentially unchanged water chenistry, Kold Steril is probably the unit of choice.
On the other hand, there are several different R/O units with different membranes, that produce different results. All of them pass water, under pressure, through a very tight membrane that lets smaller ions/molecules through, rejecting the larger ones and flushing them out. The "flushing" part generally uses 3-4 times as much water as it produces as product. The rejected water can be used to water your garden or for hardwater lowing fish (also good for snails and Daphnia), but it is, essentially, a waste stream.
Depending on the membrane, temperature, pressue, etc., generally up to 95+% rejection of divalent cations can be achieved. The product water is VERY SOFT, almost like distilled water. For most uses minerals have to be added (or raw water blended back in) to obtain the hardness one needs for fish to live in it.
So, if you need soft or softer water, R/O is the way to go!
REMEMBER -- the two systems are NOT interchangeable -- they produce a different product!
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bfessler
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Posted: October 22 2009 at 10:20am |
Hi Mark,
This whole Kold-Sterile idea is new to me. Since I came into the hobby in March this is the first I have heard of Kold-Sterile. I thought that it was necessary to remove as much from the water as possible to make sure that all the bad stuff was removed. If you can remove the impurities and leave the good nutrients I kind of like that idea.
I quickly checked on line for a Kold-Sterile unit and they are quite a bit more than a RO unit. I think a small Kold-Sterile Unit was about $330 at marine depot. Is this why we don't hear more about Kold-Sterile?
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Burt
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Posted: October 22 2009 at 10:40am |
Burt, Kold Steril doesn't remove all bad stuff, Yes it removes some but like i said above you don't know what you are getting when it comes out. TDS plays a big part of water quality so unless you know ( which i don't thing any of us really do) what PPM of minerals are before and after the kold steril unit then TDS is the only way to ensure water quality. It is crazy to think of leaving things up to chance. I think R/O with a good salt that has trace elements in it is a far better solution then not knowing whats coming out of a kold steril unit...
Here is something to think about.
In Las Vegas where water is a premium, At Mandalay Bay and at Caesars palace there whole aquarium and shark systems use R/O water If Kold Steril was a better way to go why wouldn't they be using this?
Edited by FIRE SHRIMP - October 22 2009 at 10:50am
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: October 22 2009 at 11:00am |
Yes, the price is why you don't hear more about it. The interesting thing is that the Kold-steril unit uses the same three canisters as an RO/DI unit, minus the RO membrane. A hobbyist can buy the canisters, fittings and media to make their own Kold-steril unit for about $150.
I believe I adequately described the difference between Kold-steril and RO in my post above. The product of both units is purified water with the difference being the level and type of "impurities". But the question that we should ask ourselves is what "impurities" need to be removed from tapwater so that it will provide what a reef aquarium needs. I'm not saying that one is better than the other, just that a hobbyist should become informed of the true difference and then choose the unit they like. If a hobbyist would like to conserve water, they should look into Kold-steril. 
Contrary to what that post that Eric found says, Kold Steril units do not use a "ion exchange membrane", in fact there is no such thing as a ion exchange membrane, at least not in the same sense that we understand the workings of a Reverse Osmosis Membrane. The critical media of the kold-steril unit is a stiff white polymer mesh material that attracts and holds specific ionic molecules. Roughly speaking this is similar to what Activated Carbon does when it traps organic molecules.
Also, I need to make clear that the website in that post is not the Kold-steril website but simply a reseller. This is the official site containing the correct information:
I wonder if the author of that post has actually ever seen or even used Kold-steril 
I am not trying to argue but I am trying to provide true factual information so that people can make an informed decision. I actually have used an RO unit for the past 5 years or so because I found it at the DI (Deseret Industries) for $5. Then I reused old RO membranes that I got from work, so I cannot claim to have been using Kold-steril at all, except for setting it up for my friend. 
Eric comments that in that pic of my friends tank there is no stony coral. He is right. My friend has all but neglected the tank for years and thus has not bothered to try to keep the stony coral alive. When I was living nearby I kept him up on supplements and maintenance so that LPS and even a few SPS and clams were doing fine. My point regarding this tank was that without Kold-steril water, it would have completely crashed years ago. 
Edited by Mark Peterson - October 22 2009 at 11:11am
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: October 22 2009 at 11:21am |
Eric, you slay me.
So we should do it just because some big aquarium does it. I'm sorry but that is a big bunch of baloney. I've interviewed people that work there. They are no smarter than you or I. I don't do something just because others are doing it. I have found plenty reason not to do what other less knowledgable people are doing.
Also, you said that soft coral create no demand for Alk, Ca, Mg, etc. Tell that to the hobbyist next time they come in with a complaint about Sarcophyton dieing, Sinularia not growing or Xenia melting away. I dare you NOT to tell them to buy some supplements off of your store shelf. 
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Posted: October 22 2009 at 11:22am |
I wonder why only one company makes this?
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