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meterman 
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 Topic: Drain Size?
Posted: February 15 2006 at 11:59am |
I picked up a 37G Oceanic glass tank and I'm going to have it drilled. I have 3/4" and 1" bulk heads. I am going to use a 10 Gal sump and a 10 gal refug. under it. Would a 1" drain be sufficient, or would I be better with the (2) 3/4" drains? I haven't picked up a pump yet. What are your thoughts about the following configurations?
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Alex
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Adam Blundell
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Posted: February 15 2006 at 12:06pm |
I am going through the exact debate right now. My tank is bigger, but same concept, should I use ten 1" drains or six 1.5" drains.
For now, I'm all about more drains. I may even just cap some off. So for me, I say just keep drilling.
Adam
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amorgenegg
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Posted: February 15 2006 at 12:13pm |
If you drill more holes to get the same flow, aren't you weakening the glass panel more?
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Adam Blundell
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Posted: February 15 2006 at 12:15pm |
Probably, but that's never worried me. In fact until reading your post I don't think I've ever thought about it.
Adam
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fj40fax
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Posted: February 15 2006 at 12:21pm |
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1 1" will be more than enough for a 37g. jfinch's father (in-law
maybe) is running about 1800gph through 1 1" durso. That would
turn your tank over 48x/hour, yep that should do...
Fax
Edit: One smaller overflow box will block less light and give more real estate inside the tank.
Edited by fj40fax
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Fax 318-3632
90g 2x250W 14kK MH
Sump, Fuge, G3, UV, O3, ACIII
Pleasant Grove, UT Across State Street from the Purple Turtle
Adjustments and Massages for Frags!
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meterman
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Posted: February 15 2006 at 12:54pm |
Thanks!
They both have their advantages and disadvantages. (1) 1" drain appears to be the better way to go - at least for this tanks size.
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Alex
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Rocky
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Posted: February 15 2006 at 12:57pm |
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The key is the durso, it will greatly increas flow. Just a pure gravity drain won't give you as much flow. I believe that you should always go with an extra hole which you can always cap off or put a ball valve on to slow it down. For the 37 galon I think the 1" single drain with a durso standpipe will work perfect.
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Rocky Phillips
Hill AFB, Utah
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: February 15 2006 at 10:55pm |
Nobody is asking if that drawing is the back of the tank or the bottom.
If the tank is to sit against a wall, I would drill the back of the tank and make a short, wide, covered overflow box to surround the drain on the inside of the tank, then place a gate valve at the bottom of the drain to back up the water. This makes the flow as fast as physically possible. No need for a durso.
Oh and I would do one 1" or 1.5" drain and have a 3/4" return come up and split to two 1/2" nozzles over the back top frame of the tank. 1/2" nozzles are best because that size makes for stonger flow makes for better circulation.
Edited by Mark Peterson
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Mike Savage
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Posted: February 15 2006 at 11:06pm |
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The bottom glass on Oceanic aquariums is tempered. You will have to drill the back.
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meterman
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Posted: February 16 2006 at 9:49am |
"Nobody is asking if that drawing is the back of the tank or the bottom"
The drawing is for the back because, as Mike said, the bottom is tempered.
"Oh and I would do one 1" or 1.5" drain and have a 3/4" return come up and split to two 1/2" nozzles over the back top frame of the tank. 1/2" nozzles are best because that size makes for stonger flow makes for better circulation."
Mark, why would you do the 1/2" nozzles over the frame instead of drilled with bulkheads? Is it becasue of cost, weakening of the glass or other reasoning? I have a SCWD to split flow into the (2) 3/4" bulhead returns. I will use a 1/2" reducer from the 3/4" bulkeads for 1/2" Locline inside the tank to direct current.
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Alex
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fj40fax
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Posted: February 16 2006 at 10:16am |
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If you can get your return pump as close to 1200gph as posible after head loss (SCWD limit) it may be good to go with 3/4" lockline nozzles. That is a lot of flow through a single 1/2" fitting. That is my plan on the new 90g, it will also have a closed loop running 1400gph. 1200gph on your 37g should be more than enough flow. On my 20g I run about 500gph after head loss with no additional flow in the tank, and it could use a little more.
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Fax 318-3632
90g 2x250W 14kK MH
Sump, Fuge, G3, UV, O3, ACIII
Pleasant Grove, UT Across State Street from the Purple Turtle
Adjustments and Massages for Frags!
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Gahlenfr
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Posted: February 16 2006 at 10:29am |
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I think that over the back on the return gives you a little more flexibility as you change/move/grow the tank. Having said that however, a drilled back should not cause problems. I am doing a 75-90(haven't decided yet) and I will drill the overflow and put the returns over the tank. Locline is just the coolest plumbing isn't it!
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Redrock
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Posted: April 18 2006 at 11:02pm |
For drains the maximum expected flow is:
1/2" = 60 GPH (Not recommended for drains as it is too easy to clog)
3/4" = 150 GPH
1" = 390 GPH
1-1/4" = 750 GPH
These ratings are based on a velocity of between 2 and 3 FPS which is really pretty high. I suspect that ratings used by the pump manufacturers are pushed a little and I am very curious if someone has done testing on actual pump performace.
If not I would be happy to help or do some performance testing if anyone has a pump they would like to verify flow. Maybe this could be a great topic for a meeting?
Sorry, a little off subject meterman, part of my AAD or is it ADD?
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meterman
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Posted: April 19 2006 at 9:35pm |
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I ended up going with (2) 3/4" returns with lockline nozzles and (1) 1" durso drain. I picked up a Mag 7 from Fish-4-U and I will be using a SCWD for the returns through the bulkheads. I may pick up another Mag 7 for a return or two over the back in order to avoid a similar experience Shane had a little while ago. I'll post picks in a month, or so when I have water.
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Alex
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Mike Savage
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Posted: April 20 2006 at 1:10am |
Alex, I'm looking forward to seeing those pictures. 
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