Suggestions to get heat lower

When my house gets above 65 degrees, my tank heats up to 78-80 degrees once all the lighting is on. I use a variable speed clip on fan over my sump (I also have a small box fan in the canopy, which is used year around). When my Halides kick on, so do the fans. Has worked great for many years. Cheap and easy!

DLindquist wrote: When my house gets above 65 degrees, my tank heats up to 78-80 degrees once all the lighting is on. I use a variable speed clip on fan over my sump (I also have a small box fan in the canopy, which is used year around). When my Halides kick on, so do the fans. Has worked great for many years. Cheap and easy!

Its for my Redsea Max so a normal fan won't work:) Thank you though!

I took my fans out and cleaned the blades really good. That helped a little, but high temps in the summer are hard to get away from with the RSM.

With my bc29 I had major heat issues with the original pc lighting, and had to open both lids on the hood.  I swapped to led, and I still have to keep one open or I get enough condensation on the hood to start forming salt creep on all the edges of the tank.  

I agree with Burt dissecting the hood..bad. However if you could find something to keep the hood cracked open about an inch, that would help and maybe you could get a fan directed under that opening. Then the lid could be closed......Appearance is what RSM is all about. A closed hood is a heating nightmare. I use to keep the lid on mine open all summer. It helps a little. Mine was in our upstairs kitchen so I never seen anything near 78 deg in the summer. Always 80+. I looked at everything in order to keep the appearance nice. So for my new RSM 250 my first purchase was a chiller.

^^ditto^^....probably cheaper than getting a chiller as well.....

If you're good with soldering and electronics, you can build yourself a thermoelectric cooler. You may need a few depending on your tank size. What you can do to build it though.... You can get a TE device for about 12-30 dollars. You'll need a power supply, and a heat sink. Its a possiblity to get a cpu heatsink with a fan for heat dispursion. Then theres a few ways to mount the cooling side of the device to something to cool. You can get a piece of thin aluminum and connect a small pipe full of water to cool and insert the pipe into your aquarium or sump and the thermal gradient should move the water or you could power the movement somehow. You may also just insert an aluminum block into the water through a hole in the back of a HOB after connecting it to the cooling side of the TE. This can be reproduced for multiple units.

If you do the heat sink thing, I would suggest using this one or one similar.

You dont need aluminum, that was a suggestion. You could use ceramic or something else as that Iceprobe uses. I dont see you needing to cool your water more than a 3-4 degrees unless your house temps get into the 90's. You could figure out how much cooling you'd need to drop the temperature of the water by 4 degrees over a period of about 4 hours (to maintain the current temp). Doin the thermo calculations, you'd need two Iceprobes to keep 20 gallons of water at the same temperature if that temp were to raise 1 degree over an hour. That's assuming a large error though considering the air temperature needs to change the temperature of the water through glass which is a decent thermal insulator. So the rise in temperature i stated may be a bit over blown for most cases. You can build something similar to that ice probe for about half the cost. I've priced it and will be building one before summer arrives.