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LakeCityReefs
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Topic: Sump build Posted: January 11 2014 at 6:57pm |
Ok folks I am new to the hobby and am currently running a canister filter on my 55. I am cleaning my canister regularly but would rather not have to wring out the sponges every week. I am researching how to build my own 10-20 Ga. sump. I have a few questions. 1- what size sump is preferred for a 55? 2- should I go with a refugium style or use the mud? Do you have to have lights on the mud? 3- what is the least expensive quality pump (do those words belong in the same sentence)? 4- suggestions on how to make the water flow silent? 5- I currently have a Red Sea prism skimmer that I want to incorporate into this build. Any suggestions? Basically guys I'm pretty cheap and looking for the biggest bang for the buck.
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xessive force
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Posted: January 11 2014 at 7:20pm |
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With a sump/fuge as big as you can go is what I would recommend. I have a 35 gallon tank I use as my sump/fuge with a 45 gallon display. I siliconed acrylic sheets into the sump to create three separate chambers. I got the acrylic at Home Depot. One area for the return line to go into, the skimmer also sits in that chamber. The second chamber is my fuge area with rubble rock and cheato. The benefit for this area is that the cheato competes for the same nutrients that the algae in your tank needs. Because the cheato is more efficient at sucking up those nutrients it helps keep bad algae down. You will need to light the algae so it grows. I use a little portable shop light with a 5200 par bulb in it. It's a new set up but so far seems to be working great. My third area holds my return pump and heater. I have chosen to go with no sand or mud just rubble in the second chamber. There are 1000 different opinions on which option is best. For me, like you, being very cost conscience I elected to go bare for now but plan to add the miracle mud bricks (you can see these on youtube) or a similar container with live sand at a later time. I would suggest you go with the best pump you can. Mine cost 125 and is pretty quite and does a great job. I picked it up at aquatic dreams. As far as making it quite just have the line bringing water into your tank under the water line and use a filter sock to deaden the noise.
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LakeCityReefs
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Posted: January 12 2014 at 10:12am |
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Thanks for the reply. Very helpful. I have one more question to throw in- My tank is not drilled. Could I lower the water and drill it safely? Is an HOB overflow even an option?
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xessive force
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Posted: January 12 2014 at 7:39pm |
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I don't have a ton of experience with drilling my guess is no for a number a reasons others may have to help you on that question. I have had good success with a hob overflow on tanks in the past both diy siphon overflow systems and the store bought kind. I know there is always a risk involved with hob but I think odds would be in your favor for a hob rather than drilling a half full tank.
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Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, but today is a gift that's why they call it the present.
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: January 12 2014 at 8:59pm |
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I have drilled a few tanks but they were dry and tipped on their front. For a filled running tank, I would have Erik at Aquarium Creations drill it for me. He has all the equipment and tons of experience.
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Akira
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Posted: January 13 2014 at 2:27am |
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Check out glassholes.com . And as far as drilling I would drill it if I owned it full or not but there is always a risk . I have drilled many holes in my time with no issues all the tanks were empty but would still attempt it for myself.
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Crazy Tarzan
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Posted: January 13 2014 at 8:03am |
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I've drilled tanks as well. All empty though.
I would chance drilling a 1/2 full tank, but remember you'll have to be careful--putting too much pressure on one side can crack the glass. Access is another issue as well, unless you have lots of open space behind the tank, you'll have to drill from the inside, which on a 55 doesn't give you much space to work with, and make sure you don't drop the drill in the tank. Especially if you are using a corded drill (since it can use up a cordless drill battery)!
If you really want a drilled tank, I bet you could find an empty 55g cheap and have it drilled, then swap over into that tank on a weekend once it's ready to go.
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Was that in there yesterday? Casper--WY windier than ?
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Mark Peterson
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Posted: January 13 2014 at 8:52am |
LakeCityReefs wrote:
Basically guys I'm pretty cheap and looking for the biggest bang for the buck.  |
 A kindred spirit.
If switching tanks, I would go to a 75 or 90 gal. The 6" of added
depth front to back is awesome for doing a reef tank. IMO a 75/90 is a
perfect size. It is still 4 feet long just like a 55. A 75 or 90 is
large enough to make a beautiful reef but easier to set up, fill and
maintain than the next size up, ~120 gal. This also makes room for a better Sump/Refugium. I believe your new LED light fixture will still work great for a 75 or 90 gal tank. It's all about coral placement. As
far as circulation, the best powerhead for the money is the Maxijet.
The MJ1200 can push 1300 gph, costs only $20 and makes wave action. You
are invited to visit my place to see just how effective $20 can be for a
55 gal tank. I would use two inside a 75/90 and one as the return pump
in the sump/Refugium. Just my opinion. Aloha, Mark  808-345-1049 750 E. Lakepoint Dr. #4V Murray (best to call ahead)
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ReefdUp
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Posted: January 13 2014 at 8:53am |
I've made several sumps of varying sizes with various materials. First, I'd go with at LEAST a 20g tank. You'll need enough room in the sump for your 55g to drain. A 55g tank is 48" x 12"...and let's just say your drain is 2" below the water surface. That means about 5 gallons of water will drain into your sump when you turn the pump off...so you can only have less than 5 gallons of water in your sump normally. That's not a lot, and it doesn't leave any room for error. Acrylic sumps are nice (I built one for my 200g system), but if money is a concern, you can build your own sump with glass for very little. I do not recommend acrylic baffles as they do not bond well with glass. Over time, you'll probably have a few baffles pop loose. I know acrylic is convenient, but local glass shops can custom-fit baffles for you for next-to-nothing. Here's a link to my glass sump build: http://www.reefdup.com/2012/05/25/diy-glass-sumps/I've never used the refugium mud. I've always run a standard refugium with no problems. If you're planning to stay in the hobby, buy quality first. I bought all cheap stuff when I was a starving college student...that was a mistake. I ended up having to upgrade equipment very quickly and ended up paying a lot more in the long run. If you aren't sure about the hobby...then that's understandable. Harbor Freight usually sells pond pumps starting about this time of year for next to nothing. They're ok...they'll get you started. When you can drop a little more money, I'd go with an Eheim. Whatever you do...stay away from the Mag-pumps. They'll break the day after the warranty ends...not kidding. What water height does your skimmer need? Again, if you went with a 10g sump, there is no way the skimmer would work with only 5g in the tank.
Edited by ReefdUp - January 13 2014 at 8:54am
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www.reefdup.com Diving since 2009, reefkeeping since 2007, & fishkeeping since 1987 200g, 75g, & 15g Systems PADI Advanced Open Water
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Fatman
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Posted: January 13 2014 at 9:50am |
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The Maxi-Jet is a workhorse little pump. I have a handful of them. There are, however, three versions:
1) The original made in Italy (great pump) 2) The current offering made in China (none of internals trade with the olders models) and these are noisy and cheaply made. The parts come off regularly. I would avoid these if possible 3) The Cobalt MJ (for Maxi-Jet); these are the same pump as the original MJ and are rock solid. They are made in Italy supposedly by the same plant that made the original and are currently offered for sale.
You will see some knockoffs around. The ones I have used have been dependable (if made in Italy) but a bit nosier that the originals.
You see them from time to time sold used and they are a very good buy, just be sure they are not leaking electricity into the tank. Many of the ones I have bought used do this.
Fat
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ReefdUp
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Posted: January 13 2014 at 10:07am |
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Oh, I should mention...
If you get a pond pump, if it has metal screws, they may not be stainless steel. Just change them out...easy.
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www.reefdup.com Diving since 2009, reefkeeping since 2007, & fishkeeping since 1987 200g, 75g, & 15g Systems PADI Advanced Open Water
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LakeCityReefs
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Posted: January 13 2014 at 6:07pm |
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I work for a large glass shop. Glass is pretty easy and I have 45 sheets of 1/2 acrylic coming in this week. I will probably build my own. Just trying to buy things one at a time so my wife will stick around. She loves the tank but admittedly I've been a little OCD and have spent several hundred dollars in the last 3 weeks.
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