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smatney 
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 Topic: Moving day = Saturday - update
Posted: November 25 2004 at 7:32pm |
Well, it's almost here - moving day. Thanks to everyone for all your help. Here's the plan (I'd like your input):
1. Do a water change in my other tanks and put the water in a 5 gallon bucket. This will be used for the fish. I'm going to put in a small heater and powerhead in the bucket.
2. Drain part of the water from the 45 gal to two tubs - this is where the coral and rocks will go. I will put a power head in with the coral.
3. Remove the fish and all the snails and crabs I can find (invertibrates as well).
4. I'm going to leave 1-2 inches of water - stir it up with the sand and vacuum out the water and discard it.
5. Remove the sand with a clean dust pan into a bucket.
6. Move out the old tank - move in the new.
7. Hook up the plumbing that is now dry plumbed.
8. I have a 25 gallon tub with rock and sand in it that has been acclimating for 6 weeks.
9. Put in sand and some water.
10. Start placing rocks and more water
11. Fill sump with sand and water.
12. Turn on plumbing and let run a few hours.
13. Set up neptune computer - try all electrical.
14. Put in fish.
I've already got 60 gallons of saltwater mixed and ready to go (thanks Renee for the containers.)
I'm going to wait to set up the calcium reactor, ozone and wait to turn on skimmer until it has run a while.
Edited by smatney
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Susan Matney
Farmington, UT
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SSpargur
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Posted: November 25 2004 at 8:11pm |
Turn on the skimmer right away. It will help clear the water.
If you already have 60 gallons done, I would put it in the new tank now and add the new sand so it has a chance to settle.
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Sean Spargur
West Valley, UT
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Weimers
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Posted: November 25 2004 at 10:01pm |
Sounds like a thorough plan! Don't forget hot chocolate with marshmallows for a treat when you're done. A little pie wouldn't hurt. None for the fish, though. They get good stuff - shrimp, crab claws, caviar... 
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coreyk
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Posted: November 25 2004 at 11:09pm |
if you have an aggressive fish or two i would put them in a separate
container. less stress.
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Crazy Tarzan
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Posted: November 26 2004 at 6:46am |
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I would get the sand in and settled as soon as possible--it's a real
pain to try and set up all your aquascaping with cloudy water not being
able to see where you set the rocks. Don't forget to use some of
your current water in the tank too. As for fish I would drain the
water out to just barley as deep as the tallest fish, it will make it
easier to catch the fish.
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Was that in there yesterday? Casper--WY windier than ?
Down to a 20, soon to double or nothing
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David Carroll
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Posted: November 26 2004 at 8:56am |
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Stack your rock before you add water. Once you add water
and move your rock around it clouds up the water and you
cant see any more to arange your rock.
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Mark Peterson
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Joined: June 19 2002
Location: Murray
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Posted: November 26 2004 at 9:19am |
 David Carroll wrote:
Stack your rock before you add water. Once you add water and move your rock around it clouds up the water and you cant see any more to arange your rock. |
I understand your point, but it's really not such a good idea from the standpoint of keeping everything alive. The air that fills the pores in the LR will kill things. Cloudy water is just a fact of life. Put the LR in when there is water to cover it so that you can twist-turn-shake all the air out, then place it as best you can. Don't worry about doing absolutely final aquascaping until the next day. After all, you will forever be doing some kind of aquascaping on this aquarium anyway.  And lose the Flame Hawkfish or else do a really large refugium (I know you are doing that ) with tons of algae and critters and then tons of snails and a few hermits up above. That hair algae in your current tank is because you didn't have enough herbivores and you had one too many carnivores(the FH).
Edited by Mark Peterson
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Reefkeeping Tips, & quick, easy setup tricks:www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9244 Pay it forward - become a paid WMAS member 
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smatney
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Posted: November 28 2004 at 8:18am |
Here it is Sunday. The new tank is set up and running. I lost one fish (so far)- the fire fish goby jumped. We still need to:
Place coral in tank (I have a tub full of coral with heater and powerhead in it.)
Set up neptune
Set up ozone
Finish mounting VHO's in canopy and put up canopy.
Set up Ca+ reactor.
Question - the water level is quite high, 1/4 inch below tomp of tank. Fred made a durso standpipe that is working well. Is there a way to cut down or lower the overflow so the water level is lower?
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Susan Matney
Farmington, UT
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reptoreef
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Posted: November 28 2004 at 8:24am |
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If everything is set and placed... probably not. You would have to have the ability to lower your overflow by hand to drop the water level(I am assuming it's fixed in place).
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www.captivereefing.com
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smatney
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Posted: November 28 2004 at 8:44am |
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Jason - I'm not sure what you mean but the aquascaping is done. The overflow is built into the tank. What do you mean "lower the overflow by hand"?
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Susan Matney
Farmington, UT
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bugzme
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Posted: November 28 2004 at 8:58am |
the water level is permanent! because of the notches in the overflow itself. is the duro-stand pipe short enough to let the water down to the bottom of the notches?
how about a pic?
Edited by bugzme
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Jeff
125 tank
50 gallon sump
T-5 lighting
Rum drinker, Carbon User
I KNOW ROCKS THAT ARE YOUNGER THEN ME!! I AM A Realist! I write what I think!!
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jfinch
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Posted: November 28 2004 at 9:14am |
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The water should cascade through the overflow and fall an inch or two. The overflow weir sets the level in the tank. The durso sets the level in the overflow box. Make sense?
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smatney
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Posted: November 28 2004 at 9:33am |
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The water is going over the top of the overflow - not through the holes. Could the durso be too high or is the water flow too high?
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Susan Matney
Farmington, UT
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bugzme
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Posted: November 28 2004 at 9:40am |
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more then likely the durso is too high. the t part should be lower than the bottom of the notches. you can use cotton string to cut it down with a sawing action
Edited by bugzme
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Jeff
125 tank
50 gallon sump
T-5 lighting
Rum drinker, Carbon User
I KNOW ROCKS THAT ARE YOUNGER THEN ME!! I AM A Realist! I write what I think!!
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Skyetone
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Posted: November 28 2004 at 10:34am |
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how many GPH is your sump pump? I had issues with this a little when I filled my 125, but I got a higher GPH and now it's ok. But there are variables. I would assume eric built the overflow to be rated at a high enough GPH. But without more info.... pics?
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I will just give my warning that your system will flood, bulbs will burn out, and things will take continuous maintenance... get over it.
Magna
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smatney
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Posted: November 28 2004 at 11:12am |
Fred is going to work on the durso this afternoon, and the lights. The overflow material is black so a picture wouldn't help. The pump is an iwaki 40 RXLT and it really puts out the water flow but we are using both the inlet 3/4 hole and the outlet 1" hole for outlets, since we have two seaswirls, so it should keep up with the pump.
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Susan Matney
Farmington, UT
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jfinch
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Posted: November 28 2004 at 12:18pm |
yup, I agree with Jeff. You should lower the durso elbow. If you get the water level in the overflow down below the slots in the weir and the water is still going over the top of the weir that means your overflow is too small for the circulation pump your using.
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smatney
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Posted: November 28 2004 at 1:47pm |
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Jon Finch - you are SO smart!! You hit the nail on the head. The pump is too powerful for the overflow. We lowered the flow on the pump and it lowered the water level and inch. I'd like it to be an inch and a half so now we are going to lower the durso. Thanks so much!
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Susan Matney
Farmington, UT
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DutchDude
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Posted: November 28 2004 at 1:49pm |
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Those overflow slots are a bit small, and really don't need to be that narrow. When I had my all-glass 90 gallon, I drilled out all the slots with the next size drill bit. Worked out great, and it is amazing how much more flow it handled.
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faviasteve
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Posted: November 28 2004 at 2:30pm |
Hi Susan,
The slots in the overflow are way too small. I cut out every other plastic divider between slots on my 92 corner overflow. It created really big slots that can handle a lot more flow. My clownfish got sucked into the overflow twice with the big slots (he's OK but I'm sure it was a wild ride) so don't make them quite that big. With my 40RLXT pumping at 90-100% flow, the water level is just at the top of the slots. I enlarged the slots with a razor blade, but it's difficult and dangerous to fingers so a drill may be a better idea. If you enlarge the slots with the water running, have a filter sock in the sump to catch the plastic fragments. Do you have the durso connected to both holes at the bottom of the overflow or just one? The max flow one 3/4" hole can handle is about what the pump will put out. Both holes could handle that amount of flow easily.
Steve
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Steve Burton
Logan, Utah
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