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BRS GFO vs Seachum PhosGuard

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trevor40 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 11 2016 at 1:38pm
I agree 100%^^^^^ I used a GFO/Carbon reactor years ago only to watch my all my corals lighten in color and look very pale. I have managed to control PO4 by replacing a small bag of GFO(maybe a half cup in a 100 gallon system) every 3 months or so and running Macro algae. Even when I don't change my GFO for months my PO4 is max .04(Hanna Checker)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark Peterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 12 2016 at 12:36am
Approve  Fantastic. Thumbs Up

I assume Burt uses a good skimmer and that's why he uses AC less often. For my systems, mostly skimmerless or underskimmed, AC becomes more important as it is run 2 weeks/mo. and in some cases it's used continuously.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chevmaro Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 12 2016 at 12:39am
GFO always makes me think its working, but who knows really.  I do know that my equipment, media and maintenance plan is working.  So, i'm not going to change it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark Peterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 12 2016 at 8:35am
PO4 testing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote relethg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 12 2016 at 9:06am

I have a big bio load, with 40 fish in my 210 gallon mixed reef. I control N03 and 2 with a small canister filter that has matrix in it and low flow (small crypt). Also have micro algae in my fuge. I cut and remove about 2lbs every two weeks. 

       Could not control P04 without GFO or some other PO4 remover and I have tried bags and they just dont remove enough fast enough for my system. Yes, we feed on the heavy side. I run a good skimmer and AC in a reactor. I follow a schedule that keeps the parameters stable. P04 runs about .03 and I can tell when it gets to .05 by the two day algae on the glass. I change my A/C and GFO every 30 days. Same time I do a 25% water change. N03 runs 2-5 and N02 stays at 0.

      If Trevor and Burt are saying low nutrient systems are so 2010 I would disagree. If they are saying GFO in a reactor for P04 control is so 2010 I would say maybe.

I believe you can control the speed P04 is removed by the volume of GFO and the flow through the reactor and the same goes for AC. On my small system I mix a small amount of GFO with my carbon and have a very slow flow. This last about 6 weeks, I can tell when the GFO is gone by the 2 day algae growth.

Many types of very successful SPS tanks using low nutrient system are out there and I still think they are in vogue. I can't believe they are behind us. I also know plenty of people using GFO and AC in reactors successfully. Like is always said there are many ways to skin a cat.

      Of course I am relatively new to salt water but so far so good. I would like to us a sulfur reactor to control NO3 and P04 and do plan to give that a spin in the near future. This would get read of the crypt and two reactors on the 210. Running a true mixed reef with a heavy bio load is very difficult in my opinion.



Edited by relethg - May 12 2016 at 10:31am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Krazie4Acans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 12 2016 at 9:13am
Originally posted by relethg relethg wrote:

I would like to us a sulfur reactor to control NO3 and P04 and do plan to give that a spin in the near future.


Sulfur reactor will do nothing for your P04. It effects N03 only. It is very effective at doing it as well, but no P04 effect at all. Just wanted to make sure you knew that.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote relethg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 12 2016 at 9:28am
I have read that there is a amount of P04 consumed as part to the process and that if your P04 level is too low it will not function properly because of the ratio of P04 consumed to NO3. Is this incorrect? Looking for the article again. If it has no effect on P04 it really is int worth it in my case. I can control N03 with what I have. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Krazie4Acans Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 12 2016 at 9:50am
There is a tiny amount used but most people running Sulfur denitrators find that it is not enough to keep their P04 in check without other means of control.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bur01014 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 12 2016 at 11:49am
I actually dose phosphate and nitrate at times...yes, removing is so 2010 LOL

...and yes I am overstocked on fish.  As usual, many ways to skin a cat, but some skinned cats look better than others.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote relethg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 12 2016 at 1:41pm
Would you share how you are exporting your P04 day to day when you don't throw in a bag of GFO? What is your bio load? I have approximately 95" of fish. I get about 1 gallon of skimmate a week, dark. Would like to have a better looking cat. Tried the bag of GFO and could not keep P04 bellow .075. Would love to need to dose phosphate.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BillyC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 12 2016 at 1:51pm
Originally posted by bur01014 bur01014 wrote:

I actually dose phosphate and nitrate at times...yes, removing is so 2010 LOL

...and yes I am overstocked on fish.  As usual, many ways to skin a cat, but some skinned cats look better than others.

Pics or it never happened!

Just kidding. I remember seeing your tank several years ago and your sps were amazing. This idea of less carbon/gfo is really interesting and I'd love to hear more about your system. If you have a pic too that would be cool.
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Here we go - its about to get long and winded around here...

My corals export phosphate from day to day.  As your frags grown into colonies, you will find that they perform quite well at filtering the water.  Many have suggested this to occur, but until people got sick of pale coloration and started experimenting with dosing nutrients, did they actually see for themselves that tank inhabitants actually consume phosphate and nitrate.  Adam - owner of battle corals, check out his sps, amazing btw, has to dose a little from time to time as well for optimal health.  Here is a little message from him about it:

"YOUR SMALL POLYPED SCLERACTINIANS NEED NUTRIENTS!!! In fact, they need them so much, that I believe a well stocked reef full of SPS will act as its own nutrient reduction agent. Further simplifying any system by eliminating the need for some of the more recent methods and trends to do it. So there’s my claim. 

Far out? Maybe at first notion to all of you employing every effort to rid your tank of these nutrients, but hear me out. This is really is as simple as it gets, and is quite obvious once you think about it. I’m not a chemist nor scientist at all, but simply an extremely observant sps keeper at best, that has come to this realization after many years of housing, growing and abusing acroporas. 

But in all sincereness, this may not seem so far out anymore. This notion has slowly been gaining more and more traction over the last couple years. Even more so in recent months right here in R2R. It’s also one that I’ve been talking about for a long time now, and is a subject that I discuss often with fellow reefers struggling to troubleshoot, and wondering why things aren’t going as well as they'd like them to be.

In recent years, just as methods for removing nutrients have essentially gotten too efficient, I have to come to believe without a doubt, that stripping our water of even the smallest trace of nitrate or phosphate is far more deleterious on overall health, than moderately elevated, or even relatively high levels. I'll go even further to say that the benefits of measurable amounts of these vital nutrients tremendously exceeds that of a tank without. Now I never really subscribed the the phosphate is evil campaign that seemed to coincide rather conveniently with the introduction of binders such as ROWA and Phos Ban, roughly over a decade ago. While I do believe that it’s very possible, and likely that your tank will suffer at exceedingly higher levels than that of natural sea water, but that it will suffer far more at little or undetectable levels. To reiterate and perhaps reinforce my point just once more, I have seen with my own eyes, the issues that can come from exceedingly low or “stripped” levels of these nutrients, while I confess I am still waiting for the disaster that should accompany a higher or "dangerous" level. I am not saying that you are now free to abandon any means of keeping theses nutrients in check, nor to let them run wild. But rather, that I believe sps will not only keep these levels in check, but will actually deplete them much lower than we’d like as they use the nutrients up. 

So what does this really mean? Well, clearly a tank full of sps is not an easy thing to simply come up with like some macro for a fuge, or even a water change to dilute. And I’m not really suggesting that this is any sort of problem solver. I am merely stating that a well balanced system will keep itself in check when it comes to nutrients, and the production and depletion of them. In short, the longer your tank matures, and the more thriving and sprawling your sps get, the easier it will be to maintain acceptable levels of certain nutrients. Maintain being the key word. Some of us even going as far as to reintroduce various forms of nitrate back into the system when these levels are not met. With exceptional results."

Now, back to my thoughts:

I think we can blame the improved lighting technology for a lot of the moving trends.  Greater light/PAR = the need for greater nutrient dense water.  I'd only run a phosphate of <.03 if my lighting was PCs, 150 MHs, cheap reflectors, or poorly cooled T5 systems. 

Now, if your phosphate, left alone, untreated, kept rising and rising and rising - you have got a problem.  If you have very old Live rock, just leeching phosphate constantly due to years of neglect and saturation, yes, by all means run GFO heavily, before you stock. However, I wouldn't be concerned at all with a P04 reading of .075.  If you didn't treat with media, does it keep rising?  Do you only have frags? any colonies?

Now on to P04...

What effects on your coral does a P04 of .075 have on your system?  What number do you shoot for, and why?  Is there a particular reason you want it lower? Was it a trend target (in other words, everyone says >0.05) or does your tank show evidence of poor growth and death of sensitive corals at a phosphate level of .075?

Here is an awesome SPS tank are RC (this is also good reading) his runs a phosphate level between .1 to .3:

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2366953&highlight=phosphate

You likely won't believe me, but it is actually becoming quite popular to feed skimmate back to the tank.  Wonderful coral food.  Many SPS junkies are doing this for improved coloration and growth.  However, what I am trying to ultimately suggest is don't worry about chasing phosphate numbers so much.  The media if used controllably and correctly can reduce phosphate, but I would argue your corals need that phosphate and in more cases than not, it ends up causing coloration issues, base necrosis, and most importantly and OFTEN overlooked - sudden drifts in alkalinity (which is a whole other topic), that ends up actually causing the most harm.  You can use it, just be careful, especially at change out, to see if you get an alk drop each time.




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MasterJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 12 2016 at 3:57pm
what? advanced hobbyists are you referring to that don't consistently use carbon and gfo sometimes? you can buy a filter housing and a cartridge online for less than 20 bucks and tee it off your return pump. that's not expensive whatsoever and doesn't cost any electricity. plus having a reactor allows you to change media up and ensures your getting your money out of it. if your throwing your carbon and gfo and zeolite and purigen and whatever else you might be using in a media bag it build up bio-film on the surface well be fore the media is depleted so your wasting money that way. all advanced hobbyists use carbon.

bulk reef has a video that proves that reactors work better than media bags granted they work just not as well
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JP5Vu6OvLOI

most important reason to run carbon is simply that you use all kinds of chemicals in your home all the time. those things get into the air in your home and can easily be pulled into the tank via a skimmer or surface agitation or whatever. ive seen people crash small tanks just with a few sprays of frebreze in the same room as the tank. carbon is your backup if anything bad getts into the aquarium.

i do agree that gfo should only be used when necessary and can cause nutrients to drop to low if your not careful.

waterfiltersfast.com sells filter housings for about 14 bucks the same size and durability as the brs ones and you can get nice ones for 20. the cartage that goes inside can cost al little as 4 bucks for simple ones but i like the cartridges that brs offers for like 10 bucks and the housings come threaded to whatever size you want to plumb them.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark Peterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 12 2016 at 4:24pm
It's a balancing act that can be difficult to explain/teach, especially because of so many variables, as quoted above by Burt. Due to the complexity of biological processes in animals and in the variances between aquariums, we are often left to learn by trial and error what works best for our reef aquarium. I just happened to come across an article I had bookmarked about the pros and cons of biopellets. It made me think...Geek

Relative to the wild ocean, we generally overload our little boxes of water with colorful and interesting animals. Worthy of note is that the proportion of mobile vs. sessile animals makes a difference. A system that is overpopulated with pretty coral and only a few fish is going to have different needs than a system packed with pretty fish and just a few coral and both of these will act differently than a system with dense/overloaded populations of both coral and fish. All three of these types of systems require some tweaking via artificial means/methods of nutrient import and nutrient export that can sometimes lead to unexpected outcomes. I wonder if what our tanks could use is a way to buffer the effects of nutrient import and export for these pretty animals.

What could buffer and how could it be employed? In the three typical situations just described, it seems to me that two important components are often missing or at best are out of balance when compared to the natural ocean ecosystem. Those components are the surf zone (high light) and the benthic zone (no/low light). I believe if we set up our aquarium systems with a more natural balance of the three basic zones, we might find some very interesting things happen. I believe we would find our favorite animals would grow even better and yet our aquariums would become easier to maintain. Unfortunately, the organisms that grow in the two underrepresented/imbalanced zones seem to be uninteresting to most of us.

Just my observations.
Aloha,
Mark  Hug


Edited by Mark Peterson - May 12 2016 at 4:39pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bur01014 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 12 2016 at 4:57pm
Originally posted by MasterJ MasterJ wrote:

what? advanced hobbyists are you referring to that don't consistently use carbon and gfo sometimes? you can buy a filter housing and a cartridge online for less than 20 bucks and tee it off your return pump. that's not expensive whatsoever and doesn't cost any electricity. plus having a reactor allows you to change media up and ensures your getting your money out of it. if your throwing your carbon and gfo and zeolite and purigen and whatever else you might be using in a media bag it build up bio-film on the surface well be fore the media is depleted so your wasting money that way. all advanced hobbyists use carbon.

bulk reef has a video that proves that reactors work better than media bags granted they work just not as well
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JP5Vu6OvLOI

most important reason to run carbon is simply that you use all kinds of chemicals in your home all the time. those things get into the air in your home and can easily be pulled into the tank via a skimmer or surface agitation or whatever. ive seen people crash small tanks just with a few sprays of frebreze in the same room as the tank. carbon is your backup if anything bad getts into the aquarium.

i do agree that gfo should only be used when necessary and can cause nutrients to drop to low if your not careful.

waterfiltersfast.com sells filter housings for about 14 bucks the same size and durability as the brs ones and you can get nice ones for 20. the cartage that goes inside can cost al little as 4 bucks for simple ones but i like the cartridges that brs offers for like 10 bucks and the housings come threaded to whatever size you want to plumb them.



Here are 20-30 hobbyists (sps junkies) that no longer run carbon, or if they still do so, only sparing in a media bag in the sump where flow is passive and slow.  I would argue these folks located throughout the world are "advanced hobbyists" because they own the best sps dominate tanks I have ever seen and have been in the hobby for 10-20 years.  Please spend time reviewing their tank threads, you will learn quite a bit. 

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2499369&highlight=carbon

Regardless my argument is not about whether carbon/gfo in a reactor works, it is about stability. The BRS video is a great example of why I wouldn't use a reactor.  I don't want my water going from yellow to clear in less than 24 hours unless I like white bases on my sps. 

I think I will leave it at that. 


Edited by bur01014 - May 12 2016 at 4:58pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote relethg Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 12 2016 at 6:43pm
[QUOTE=bur01014]Here we go - its about to get long and winded around here[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the great post and info. I am always learning something.

I will take some fresh pictures and post as soon as I can get the tarp off the tank. Having new air-conditioning installed today. 

I don't so much go by the number .075, I just state it. I don't like cleaning the glass everyday and anything above about .05 and that is what I am doing. 

No algae problem any place else in the tank. I have animals that take care of that and I don't worry about the spots of algae that crop up here and there on the rocks.

I read the thread you referenced and will read all the skeptical reef keeping articles. It is an interesting read but I don’t believe this is the typical PO4 level of a SPS tank in the hobby today. It is easy to just look at all the TOTM and TOTY on reefcentral and see that is not the case.

I also read the thread you posted on the 20 or so people not using GAC and GFO. When I read the thread that is not what I got out of it. If I was to sum up that thread it would be, do not run too much and don't make big changes. I know from experience that if you just throw GFO and GAC on a system it will make a fast change to the amount of light reaching your corals and the amount of nutrients in the water. This is not good. I crashed my 45 gallon doing that and killed all the SPS I had at the time.

This is a great discussion and hope everyone will stay civil and the discussion will continue.



Edited by relethg - May 12 2016 at 6:44pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bur01014 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 12 2016 at 9:55pm

The post I provided - I wasn't so much interested in having folks read the content.  I was more interested in having people see who was posting, as it appears many believe that die hard sps growers are still using carbon and gfo in reactors.  I am just too lazy to find all their threads and post them... but I see that I must. 

discusheckel http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2406948
mhucasey http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2468548
sahin http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2449072
reefmutt http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2459858
MichaelW http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2521127&highlight=carbon+passively
biggles http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2529874
rickyrooz1 http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1997432&highlight=carbon+passively
wrangy http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2485250
tbd320reef http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2469889
jackson6745 http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2357196&highlight=carbon+passively

Ugh, too tired, that is probably enough for now. If you can only read through a few, Jackson, Biggles, and Sahin are musts.  Again, many ways to skin a cat.  Do what works for you and don't change if things are going well.  I really just wanted to provide to the group the recent trends in the hobby.  Reactors are no longer necessary and are often detrimental.  People are obsessed with lowering nutrients.  I was 5 years ago and my coloration suffered. 



Edited by bur01014 - May 12 2016 at 9:56pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark Peterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 12 2016 at 10:20pm
Good input. Thumbs Up good discussion.
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