Sick Candy Cane
Printed From: Utah Reefs
Category: Specialized Discussion
Forum Name: LPS
Forum Description: This is the place to ask questions LPS corals.
URL: http://www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=72197
Printed Date: December 27 2024 at 5:13am
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.03 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Sick Candy Cane
Posted By: JimSmith
Subject: Sick Candy Cane
Date Posted: July 16 2014 at 10:56pm
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Hello everyone!
I was wondering why is my Candy Cane and Frog Spawn so sad looking, it appears that they are separating from the skeleton? I do not have the chemistry kit to figure out what my parameters are, but I religiously do water changes every 1-2 weeks. I've been having a lot of problems since I change my salt from "Instant Ocean" to "Oceanic Sea Salt Mix." Could the new salt change the chemistry of the tank??? Have you guys seen anything like this before? What can I do to fix it? Jim, Thanks for the help.  |
Replies:
Posted By: Mark Peterson
Date Posted: July 17 2014 at 7:14am
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Salt mixes are slightly different. Oceanic has extra Ca. It's a good idea to gradually introduce the new salt mix over the course of 3 or more water changes but in this case, since the new salt is already being used, I'd want to know the following: Are any other coral showing signs of stress? Has anything else changed in this tank? How long has the tank been set up? What does the entire tank look like(full tank pic)? If you live near Murray, I'd be happy to stop by and take a look. Aloha, Mark  808-345-1049 text/call/visit anytime P.S. For me, spending money and time on weekly water changes is too much trouble. Instead, I check Alk and Ca to see how much Baking Soda(Alk) and Ice Melt(Ca) need to be added and then I only have to do 10% water changes at 4-8 week intervals. |
Posted By: JimSmith
Date Posted: July 18 2014 at 7:17am
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Hi Mark! now that you mentioned it, my Montepura and Dunkan corals weren't doing as good as they used to. They showed some signs of distress. The Montepura turned white and died, and the Dunkans do not extend their tentacles like it used to. However, the other corals seem fine (Hammer, zoos.). The tank has been set up for 9-12 months. The only thing different is that we changed the brand name of our salt and then began having problems (perhaps it was just coincidence). The overall picture of the tank seems to be fine, the fishes don't seem affected by these problems. I live in West Jordan, I would be very grateful if we can arrange something so you can stop by and give me some advice. I'll give you a call. Thanks!
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Posted By: Mark Peterson
Date Posted: July 18 2014 at 7:59am
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Call ASAP. I need the car today so I'll be driving my wife to work in South Jordan around 9 AM. Some coral and some individuals within a type of coral are able to survive the significant water parameter changes that can come from a change in salt mix. For others, it's  or  If a visit today doesn't work out... I can tell a lot from a picture. Please post a full tank pic. Aloha |
Posted By: JimSmith
Date Posted: July 22 2014 at 9:08pm
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Mark, As you requested I'm attaching a picture of the aquarium. Sorry I didn't reply sooner, it was a busy weekend. Looking forward to your input. Jim
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Posted By: wickedsnowman
Date Posted: July 23 2014 at 7:57am
| My guess without knowing your params is your alk is dangerously low. Before you do anything about it I would buy cal, alk, and mag tests. |
Posted By: Mark Peterson
Date Posted: July 23 2014 at 8:20am
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Ok, good. Thanks for the pic. It's too blue to see things distinctly, but here is what I think I see: Maybe 7 large anemones? Several large Cabbage Coral and other soft coral? Water streams pointing down instead of up? Low water flow? Refugium light illuminating tank from below? No indication of Alk and Ca levels? In my opinion, the items above may be having a negative effect on the reef aquarium. What would I do? These are just my opinions based on what I have found that works: Run a cup of AC(activated carbon) changed every 2-4 weeks to remove allelopathic/territorial chemicals and/or reduce the number of anemones and Cabbage Coral in the tank. Turn the water streams so they point at an angle up toward the surface. (Gooseneck the loc-line and move the Koralia to the other side pointed up so that it's stream and the stream from the return meet at the top to create some turbulence and good gas exchange. Replace the small Koralia with a powerhead with at least double the gph. (I like the inexpensive 1300 gph MJ1200, currently available for <$20) Install a shield to keep the Refugium light from shining on the tank. Light coming from below at night messes with animals equilibrium. Know the Alk and Ca by testing it yourself or bringing a water sample to a hobbyist or LFS. (I would be happy to test your water for free.) More distinct photos are made with "forced flash" or turning up the white lights/turning down the blue. Aloha ------------- Reefkeeping Tips, & quick, easy setup tricks: www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9244 Pay it forward - become a paid WMAS member 
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Posted By: JimSmith
Date Posted: July 27 2014 at 12:44am
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So, I took a water sample and was told by my friendly pet store buddies that my alkalinity was at 5.6. This is consistent with other postings. I'm working on raising the alkalinity back up slowly. Thank you for your help guys!
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Posted By: Mark Peterson
Date Posted: July 27 2014 at 9:29am
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I would raise it quickly. An increase of ~1 dKH per day is recommended. The tank needs to be at the proper level ASAP. To raise it to 8.0 in 2 days is a good thing. Think of it like the need for Oxygen at high elevations. Suffocation is not good. A quickly increasing supply of O2 in the air is needed ASAP. Also look at addressing the other items in my recommendation above. Aloha, Mark MarksReef Coral Farm 808-345-1049 750 E Lakepoint Dr. #4 Murray ------------- Reefkeeping Tips, & quick, easy setup tricks: www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9244 Pay it forward - become a paid WMAS member
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