Crocea Clam 1st Grade
Printed From: Utah Reefs
Category: Specialized Discussion
Forum Name: Invertebrates
Forum Description: This is the place to ask questions about invertebrates.
URL: http://www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=21926
Printed Date: June 19 2026 at 6:13pm
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Topic: Crocea Clam 1st Grade
Posted By: mermaidcamille
Subject: Crocea Clam 1st Grade
Date Posted: November 18 2007 at 10:51am
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Does anyone have any experience with these clams? If so I would love some advice on how to get one to thrive in my 46 gallon reef.
Thanks!
Camille
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Replies:
Posted By: Adam Blundell
Date Posted: November 18 2007 at 10:57am
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If you have halides they do great. Just about any local store here will have them. Very easy to care for. Adam ------------- Come to a meeting, they�re fun! |
Posted By: cl2ysta1
Date Posted: November 18 2007 at 11:36am
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they also need to be fed phyto. Squamosas are the only clam I know of that are pretty much photosynthetic. But they are only photosynthetic after reaching a certain size. Ive found it hard to have clams in large tanks Bc you need to put so much phyto in them. If you do y our own phyto cultures this is cheap. If your buying DT's this can get expensive ------------- I <3 Boxers Achilles tang lover |
Posted By: Cody Pearce
Date Posted: November 18 2007 at 12:11pm
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According to the data in Fatherree's book all clams, except small hippopus, can get over 100% of their energy needs by photosynthesis. ------------- 90 gallon mixed reef My fish swim naked. |
Posted By: cl2ysta1
Date Posted: November 18 2007 at 1:38pm
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well thats good to know. When i had researched them about two years ago thats what i read. thanks for the update!!!! ------------- I <3 Boxers Achilles tang lover |
Posted By: cl2ysta1
Date Posted: November 18 2007 at 1:43pm
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here is what marine depot says
Diet: needs to be fed phytoplankton a few times a week.. Feeding: It likes to eat Phytoplankton. Behavior: The is generally peaceful toward other tankmates. Care: Many consider the a Medium-maintenance specimen. Lighting: Has strong lighting needs. Water flow: The requires intermediate water flow. General notes: Ultra Crocea Clam grade will come in electric blue, green or a combination of various colors. The Ultra Crocea Clam is peaceful to other tank members.The Ultra Crocea Clam is a medium-maintenance specimen. Keep lighting intense, should only be kept under Metal Halide lighting. The Crocea Clam 1st grade requires moderate water flow. Needs to be fed Phytoplankton 2-3 times per week. Requires high calcium and introduction of iodine.. Water parameters:Keep water quality high (SG 1.023 - 1.025, pH 8.1 - 8.4, Temp. 72 - 78� F). Origin: The Ultra Crocea Clam is commonly collected from The Solomons and Vietnam. . < content=all name=robots> < content=" Ultra Crocea Clam " name=Keywords> < content=" Ultra Crocea Clam " name=Deion> ------------- I <3 Boxers Achilles tang lover |
Posted By: cl2ysta1
Date Posted: November 18 2007 at 1:49pm
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so feeding wont hurt, but if you have sufficient lighting your good.
meaning halides>? ------------- I <3 Boxers Achilles tang lover |
Posted By: jeffras
Date Posted: November 18 2007 at 1:56pm
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James Fatherree (considered an expert with clams) pretty much discounted feeding phyto as a myth (made up by phyto manufacturers like DT's) when he presented to the club a few months ago. It was a fantastic presentation. Bottom line was, as long as you have halides you should be fine with most clams. ------------- Jeff Rasmussen |
Posted By: cl2ysta1
Date Posted: November 18 2007 at 2:34pm
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well im guessing thats correct b/c i got a crocea with my tank and i've had it for two months now and ive never fed it. ------------- I <3 Boxers Achilles tang lover |
Posted By: Mark Peterson
Date Posted: November 18 2007 at 3:30pm
I don't know Fatheree and I was not at his presentation, but I wonder if his book or his presentation was misunderstood. personally I think it's nonsensical to believe that Tridacna clams don't need to eat and that they only need light. Think about it. A tank illuminated by MH grows more phytoplankton. Sunlight also grows lots of phyto. Both the light and the greater supply of phyto are what preserve a clams health. Alk and Ca must also be good.
A healthy clam will discharge mucous from time to time. Some of this gray mucous matter was once green phytoplankton. Why do you think clams do so much to filter the water of phyto and reduce N compounds? Because they eat organic matter from the water. Here's my evidence:
Late July, 2 weeks after setup I was looking for a way to clear my sunlight illuminated phyto farm.
 The skimmer did nothing. The Squamosa was introduced the first week of August. This pic was taken the next morning.
 This pic was taken 3 months later, but the water actually cleared within 2 days and despite 4 hours of direct sunlight and adding 2-4 gallons of live phyto every week the water stayed crystal clear.
  Because of the clam's need to build it's massive shell, keeping Alk and Ca within range is extremely important. This large squamosa seemed to be just barely hanging on when I got it. It grew quickly and the mantel brightened, strengthened and enlarged. ------------- Reefkeeping Tips, & quick, easy setup tricks: www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9244 Pay it forward - become a paid WMAS member 
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Cody Pearce wrote:Posted By: jeffras
Date Posted: November 18 2007 at 4:03pm
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Mark, You should get his book or see if the dvd from that meeting is available. You will certainly be impressed by his knowledge of clams. I'm sticking with James, just because they can filter feed doesn't mean they need to.  ------------- Jeff Rasmussen |
Posted By: Mike Savage
Date Posted: November 18 2007 at 4:03pm
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No misunderstanding. He was very clear on the matter and had graphs showing clam size and their ability to use photosynthesis. His conclusion was use MH lighting and no phyto is needed. Other intense lighting may suffice but MH was his choice for clams and no phyto.
Mike -------------  |
Posted By: jeffras
Date Posted: November 18 2007 at 4:10pm
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Here is a link to a forum where James is clearing up this same thing: http://www.michiganreefers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53598 - http://www.michiganreefers.com/forums/showthread.php?t=53598 If I misunderstood statements like this then I must have mental problems: "people associated with selling phyto say they have to be fed. People not associated with selling phyto (like me, Charles Delbeek, & Anthony Calfo, for example, etc.) say they don't need it. Example: I know of one long article saying they must be fed or they'll die - but it was publuished only on DT's website. Get the idea?" ------------- Jeff Rasmussen |
Posted By: Will Spencer
Date Posted: November 18 2007 at 4:27pm
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To my knowledge James Fatheree said they don't need phyto or supplemental feeding. He did not say they would not eat phyto or DT's, etc.
Mark, I notice that you did not have MH's on your tank. Therefore, according to James you probably did not have intense enough lighting. From that I extrapolate that therefore your clams may have needed some other type of food source.
James also explained that we tend to treat Tridacna's as if each specimen of each species were the same and they are not. Each specimen is as different from another as we are. Some are fat, some are slim, some are tall, some are short, some are fast growing and some are not, some need more light to survive and some can do with less. So if Mark, or any of the rest of us, had a top 10% clam that did very well in his tank it is possible that a bottom 10% clam would not have done as well.
Now, what I want to know is why do I always get a bottom 10%'er.
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Posted By: Mike Savage
Date Posted: November 18 2007 at 5:16pm
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Darn underachieving clams. Quit getting your clams from the shallow end of the gene pool.
Mike ------------- |
Posted By: mermaidcamille
Date Posted: November 18 2007 at 8:04pm
| Thanks for all the information! Wow. The reason I ask is because I have had one in my tank for 3 months and it has done well. A week ago I added some live rock to my tank and the clam hasn't been coming out like it had been, and today it looks like it is wilting in its shell (it is still alive as it will close up). I don't know if it is just being dramatic today, or if I have some how managed to kill it. Anyone else ever had this happen? |
Posted By: Cody Pearce
Date Posted: November 18 2007 at 9:02pm
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Can you post a pic Camille? ------------- 90 gallon mixed reef My fish swim naked. |
Posted By: mermaidcamille
Date Posted: November 18 2007 at 10:12pm
This is not a happy clam.... |
Posted By: Mike Savage
Date Posted: November 18 2007 at 10:23pm
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The picture is pretty small but it looks like the clam is history.
Mike ------------- |
Posted By: mermaidcamille
Date Posted: November 18 2007 at 10:33pm
| That is what I was worried about....Why would it turn so quickly after being so happy (or at least pretending to be)? I am so bummed. |
Posted By: Will Spencer
Date Posted: November 18 2007 at 10:46pm
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That looks like every clam I've ever had.
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Posted By: Debbles
Date Posted: November 18 2007 at 10:51pm
Me too!
Deb ------------- Yes Mikey...I still have fins!!! |
Posted By: Adam Blundell
Date Posted: November 18 2007 at 10:51pm
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I'd remove the clam now... before it really falls apart.
And I too am sure that giant clams do not need phytoplankton. Just lots of light.
Adam ------------- Come to a meeting, they�re fun! |
Posted By: Mike Savage
Date Posted: November 18 2007 at 10:52pm
Maybe the new live rock you introduced to your system had some die off and you got an amonia/nitrite spike?
Mike ------------- |
Posted By: BobC63
Date Posted: November 19 2007 at 8:09am
Actually, clams like ammonia... commercial growers actually "feed" baby clams this way.
Here's a few Qs:
1) Was your clam a Crocea spp. ?
2) How large was it?
3) Do you have a pic you could post of when it looked "healthy"? That would be helpful.
4) Do you know your Alk, pH, Ca & Mg levels?
5) How long has your tank been running? How big is the tank?
6) Lighting? (Type, wattage, K rating if you know it)
7) What fish are in with the clam?
8) Did you check the shell for the presence of any tiny snails?
9) Did you notice any white "growth rings" on the outer edges of the shell?
10) Anything else get sick or die around the same time?
Under the right conditions, trachinids should be incredibly easy to keep... IME it seems that people either have them with basically no problems at all - or they can't seem to keep one alive long-term...
Usually there is something fundamentally 'not right' when these just keep dying off. Once figured out, it is usually easily remedied...
------------- - My Current Tank: 50g Starfire Cube Reef * Marine & Reef tanks since 1977 * |
Posted By: mermaidcamille
Date Posted: November 19 2007 at 8:44am
As per Adam's suggestion the clam has moved onto the big ocean in the sky. I suppose I will take all your great suggestions and rethink my tank...again, and sometime in the future try again. May heaven help any clam that comes my way. 
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Posted By: Mike Savage
Date Posted: November 19 2007 at 10:07am
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You are right about the amonia Bob. I remember that now from James talk.
Mike ------------- |
Posted By: dkle
Date Posted: November 21 2007 at 12:11am
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I bought a 2'' blue maxima 2 months ago. I was pretty nervous at first since it was under the 3'' sizes, which were commonly cited as the minimal size that could survive without being fed phyto. It is doing well and growing at the bottom of my tank, despite not being fed. ------------- If you can't bedazzle them with your brilliance, baffle them with your bs! Dinhkim Le - Procrastinator extra-ordinare |
Posted By: cl2ysta1
Date Posted: November 21 2007 at 6:05am
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we've had three clams. and we are now 2 for three. The one that didnt make it was a tiny 2" crocea. I am pretty sure it's demise was b/c an sps frag fell into it and punctured it. it quickly died in about 12 hours. our squamosa has grown about 4 inches in less than a year. it came from a home where it lived under powercompacts and quickly adjusted to 400 w metal halides about 5 inches from the surface of the water. and took off!!! I know have a crocea that i got with my tank that is living about 6 inches below a 150 w halide. Is this enough lighting for it??? it seems quite happy and the previous owner had it for a while under this same lighting. I recently replaced the bulbs also ------------- I <3 Boxers Achilles tang lover |
Posted By: BobC63
Date Posted: November 21 2007 at 2:43pm
I purchased (2) 1.5" clams back around July... they were on sale for 11.99 each - so I figured "why not take a chance?"
4 months later one is approx. 3.5" while the other is 4.5"... they are both doing fine and have never been fed phtyo - or anything else for that matter. The smallest food items I feed my Reef are Cyclopeeze and (frozen) Reef Plankton; both of which I believe are too large in particulate size for the clams to ingest...
IMO Clams do NOT need to be fed to thrive - even at such a small size.
If I ever happened to have clams under 1" I would probably just keep them in a seperate tank and dose some ammonia, Ca, Mg and hit it with halide lighting before I would even worry about phtyo... ------------- - My Current Tank: 50g Starfire Cube Reef * Marine & Reef tanks since 1977 * |