Zoas closing and dying

Chemi-pure is a polymer in bead form that was developed to remove chemical compounds from the water. Another product that does a similar job and, I believe, a better job is Poly Filter manufactured in pad form.
These products remove medications and some heavy metals, like copper, from the water. Unfortunately they also remove some chemical compounds that are essential for aquarium health. This is why they should be used only on a temporary basis.

I have found these products most useful when old dead dry LR is reintroduced into the aquarium. Dry LR horribly pollutes the water for many months with pollutants that the tank's biofiltration cannot handle. I do not recommend using LR that has been set out of the water and allowed to partially or fully dry, but some of this LR looks really nice so if a hobbyist can't resist adding it to their aquarium, the solution is several months use of Poly Filter or Chemi-pure.

Not every tank reacts the same to the same products, but we have found from some hobbyists experience with Chemi-pure that prolonged use causes coral distress. I cannot say whether Chemi-pure is removing something that some coral need or adding something that some coral don't like.

I have dipped the infected zoos twice. The third will be today. The Radioactive Dragon Eyes and the Green Bay Packers zoos are all completely closed up so we'll see if this stuff works. I have other zoos and palys in the tank. Would it be advised to dip those as well unless they show outward signs of infection?

I am in the middle of the same problem....  I had little white spots on my Zoas and they were closed up. 

Just throwing this out there... We were fighting bryopsis a while back, you should look into it and see if this is the problem. We had a huge rock of zoas that were just super angry, always closed, and they were slowly dying off. We finally did some research and asked a friend. He told us it was probably bryopsis. The zoas close up because a small film of algae grows on the head and steals the nutrients. The only way to fight it (that I know of) is to boost your magnesium to 1500ppm. You cant just use basic magnesium suppliments, I was told the only thing that would work is Kents Tech-M Magnesium. It has some added bennefit that actually fights the bryopsis. You have to dose daily until 1500ppm is reached, and then maintain for a certain amount of time. I think we did ours for a week. The rock is recovering now from that. Not all of my zoas were affected by it though, just that rock, and a couple other small frags. BUT, at least raising your magnesium for a few days wont completely jack with other corals, where as using other 'medicines' can hurt our stock. We did try coralrx, and it didnt help. Just an idea, if this has already been looked into, then consider this a repeat or whatever lol. As far as furan goes, someone should educate me on this stuff. IDK what it is or what it does.

I think you're right about the bryopsis.  Mine definatly had it.  I am really glad you brought it up, otherwise I would have had no idea.  After the Furan-2 treatments I can see it shredded and all the way gone on most of the zoas.  I still boosted my mag to 1500 though.  Is there a diffenance when you boost it with supplements?  I thought mag was mag....  It IS at 1500 but do you think I shoud get the Kents product???  Should I lower it and then boost it again with the Kents stuff?  Everything is looking TONS better and I haven't lost any(fingers crossed) but I want to do what it best.  Appreciate the advice!!!

Last night when I checked the tank with a flashlight I had some pods on some of my closes zoas....  Will pods hurt zoas?  I am pretty sure they were just "cleaning" up but I am interested in another opinion.

Every once in awhile I have had issues where certain ones will just die off. Never figure out what's going on and have tried a few things. I had a whole rock of watermelons that came with this new tank and the whole ock died except a small portion I fragged off.
And yes here are some pods that will kill Zoas.