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my 2.5g journal, advice appreciated :)

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sshm View Drop Down
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    Posted: November 14 2005 at 1:53pm
Hi all,
I've been into FW planted tanks for a long time and now I decided to start my own 2.5g pico tank. I am a student at the U and live in student housing, so a pico keeps me within the rules and also since the initial investment isnt too great (I think cost/gallon is more but its a few years till I can own a 300g anyway :) ), a pico wouldnt hurt my already piddly student-type financial situation :).
 I hope to use this thread to document its progress and to learn from the gurus here. I would greatly appreciate all the help and guidance I receive along the way.

My initial plans for the pico was something like this:



However, I realized with such a large self-contained fuge area as indicated, I would be out of real estate. Moreover, the piece of acrylic I found was too small to make that anyway :D
So I cut down on the size of the fuge area and I couldnt fit the 10W screw in bulb without destroying my already crappy diy hood, so I just went with the 2 13W lamps. I put together a remote enclosed ballast box, so I could keep excess heat away from inside the hood, and since it is remote, I can keep it far away from the hood itself, moreover, a ballast box allowed me to run one grounding wire to the box.

SUMMARY OF THE TANK:

Yesterday, I bought a pound and a half of live sand, 4 pounds of live rock and some rubble and set my tank up. As of today, some of the tested parameters are:

1) Specific gravity : 1.022-1.023
2) pH: 8.13
3) Temperature: ART, ~79F

and here is a FTS:



As you can see, the main display area overflows into the fuge area, which has just some rubble and coral skeletons as of now, I plan to add some cheato in there. The water from the fuge area is returned to the display area by a AC mini, the AC mini only contains a polyfilter pad. That stuff rocks, it cleared the haziness of the water within minutes. I initially planned on a heater, but I think I will monitor the tanks temperature first, I dont think it will get too cold anyway.

LIGHTS:

The lights are:
1) 1 13w Hellolights 10,000k
2) 1 13w Helios 50-50 (12,000k/7,100k)

in a DIY wooden hood with a polished aluminium reflector. Both lights are on from 7am to 8pm. Here is a shot of the inside of the hood with the lights on:



Since the lights are mounted at the end, the live rock pile is well light, and diffuse reflected light gets into the fuge area and the area beneath the powerhead. Here is a closeup of the live rock pile:



CIRCULATION:

Water circulation is through a rio 50 powerhead, this comes on an hour before lights on and go off an hour after lights off. Remaining circulation is through the AC mini, I've observed the outflow water to gently tumble around the rock pile. As far as I can tell, there are two low flow areas in the tank, one is at the rear right of the rock pile (sort off where the acrylic meets the glass behind the rocks) and the second is the area below the powerhead.
Here is a shot of the side of the tank:



and here is a shot from the top of the tank:



Here is a shot of the tank without any post processing for levels etc:



PLANS FOR THE TANK:

I plan to stock the tank with 2 blue damsels, 2 chromis, 2 powder blue tangs and 1 moray eel (obligatory and irritating newbie joke). Ok, I want to mainly keep softies, I love zooanthids. The sand has a bunch of drag-racing critters, I also found a small seastar crawling about.

Now for some questions, once again, I would greatly appreciate any help, advice and opinions:

1) Do the two low flow areas mentioned above pose a problem?

2) Is my live sand bed enough, do I need to double what I already have?

3) What do you think about my live rock scape, I placed it that way so I could get at least two shelves for placing zooanthids on.

4) With the lights that I have, will I be able to keep SPS? :)

5) Since the light in the fuge is not direct, but reflected, I am planning on adding either a 11" T5 from commodityaxis or a 18w PC lamp. Is this necessary, or would it be overkill (not!)?

6) I only have polyfilter in the AC mini. The idea behind this configuration of overflow and AC mini was so I could keep chemical stuff in the AC mini. Do I need anything else, like carbon, phosban etc?

7) Do i need to raise the SG to1.024-1.026 if I were to keep corals and inverts only (someone said I should)?

8) I think I will need more rubble in the fuge area, right now its filled with 1" sized pieces and there is a pile about an inch thick, I plan on filling at least half the fuge area with rubble, then place a plastic mesh and keep cheato in the top half. Does this sound ok?

9) My plans for the next few days are to test the water for ammonia, nitrites and nitrates and check for a cycle (the rock is fully cured and transit time was about 3 hours from LFS tank to my tank).
I plan to do a water change at the end of the 2nd week, do these sound right?

Once again thanks in advance for any help and advice.

A plug in for the great folks at Bird World and Pet Village, Bountiful. They were very helpful  and even gave me live sand from their own tanks when they didnt have any specifically for selling.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ghetto Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 14 2005 at 2:36pm
As a recent U grad, I understand the cash situation. I've got some hardy
frags I could hook you up with for $0-$5 when you're ready to add coral
(some of these could go in within a week or so).

It looks good to me. If you could drill it and have the overflow go to a sump,
it would be ideal. Something like a 10 gallon tank under the desk would
work and would probably still be acceptable where you live.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote El Vato Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 14 2005 at 3:14pm
sshm,
IMO if you plan on only keeping softies and a few LPS then your flow
is probably fine. Like Ghetto Man stated, a sump would add to your total
water volume. The only problem with such a small tank is keeping the water
stable. I have a 12 gal nano in my office and if I did not have an auto top off
I would not be able to leave it for the weekend. Additionally, I don't think
you want to try SPS with such a small tank and lack of lighting but hey, its
your tank. I would recommend colorful zoos, ricordia, GSP, and mabe a few
small LPS coral. Most of all have fun and remember to top off your water
daily!
Logan, UT
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sshm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 14 2005 at 3:31pm
Hi Ghetto Man and El Vato,
thanks a lot for your replies.
GM, I'll look you up once my tank is stable and ready to be stocked, thanks for the kind offer. I have a 10g, but its FW planted right now :), I think the glass is too thin to be drilled and I am not very handy with tools (you should see the wooden hood, it has interesting angles). Moreover, I agree with the increase in total volume and making it more stable than it will likely be with the present config., I'll try this out and add a sump if I get too much of a headache with it this way.
EV, yeah I wasnt confident about keeping SPS, thats why I put the smiley next to the question, I knew the answer :) Actually, I dont want to keep anything in the tank that I cannot keep alive, that wouldnt be fair on the creature. So I'll stick to easy stuff on this, like the ones you mentioned.
Thanks again!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RTaylor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 14 2005 at 4:10pm
1. Low flow areas shouldn't be a problem. Once you start adding things to your tank (corals on rocks) the flow will change anyway. you might get some crud buildup in the low flow areas but I would just remove it when you do a water change.
2. I think you have enough sand IMO. With such a small tank I would rather have more rock then sand = more viewing area. Your ratio looks fine to me.
3. Aquascaping is 99% aesthetics. If you like it it's fine.
4. MaybeMontipora at the very top.
5. If it is available I would use it.
6. I run Carbon 24/7. Most don't. I would. I would only run Phosban if you detect a Phosphate problem.
7. Anywhere from 1.020 to 1.026 is acceptable. Stability is more important then specific SG. I run mine at 1.020. This also allows for error if you forget to top off the tank one day.
8. With the amount of live rock you already have in the tank I would just add some Cheato to the fuge. Less rock in the fuge = more room for Cheato to grow.
9. Sounds good to me.

Have fun!
RT
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sshm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 15 2005 at 2:03am
RTaylor, thanks for taking the time to answer my questions.

My next big upgrade will be a 18w CFL from aquatraders, and then
gutting it to fit it inside the hood. I am buying with a friend so I will end
up getting the light for less than 25 shipped, so thats the reason I am
going for it, I know there are better lights out there but this one seems to
be a good deal. My other option is to get 2 11" 10W T5s from
commodityaxis and cram them in the hood. It will be a tight fit if I go that
route so I am leaning more towards the 18W aquatraders cfl.

Of course, if some kind soul here has a light to sell that I can use, I would
be very grateful :)

I think I'll leave SPS for later, as far as an LPS is concerned would a small
blasto do ok in this setup?

------------------

Update for tomorrow: measure a day's evaporation and build/configure a
drip type top off.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dion Richins Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 15 2005 at 8:32am
The time your takeing planning and researching will pay off in the end. This looks like a very cool mini tank.
Bad "censored" Cabinets
Best quality in the valley! He is one sexy bald guy, even with out a finger!(MAC)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vangvace Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 15 2005 at 9:31am

http://www.nano-reef.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=65235

The link above is of my pico.

For a top off drip top off you can buy a lizard dripper. I perfer the ones with a metal valve though for better control but the plastic one has been working for me. I got mine from Petsmart (they pricematch thier own website if you bring in a printout) but other stores may be cheaper

1) No problem...
2) Plenty...
3) If you like it it's all that matters
4) Montipora if anything... will do better once you add the third bulb
5) Recommend the third light to be actinic and if possible place with the end opposite the other two
6) I ran the polyfilter for a couple days till the dust settled then took it out. Once in a while I may run carbon.
7) Stability is more important than what your SG is at to a point. I only worry about it if I'm going to take a long weekend
8) Sounds OK but I don't know if you'll need it...

McGuire AFB, NJ

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sshm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 15 2005 at 11:08am
Thanks Holdencraft33 and vangvace.

The 18w I am planning to get from aquatraders ships with a 50/50, I think I'll stick with that, adding an extra bulb is like $8 more. I am still hoping someone here has a used 18w bulb and ballast they dont need anymore.

Here are some pics of the chaeto in the fuge area. I bought a small quantity after reading that chaeto grows to fill the space around it and therefore is more efficient at nutrient export.

Top view:



Side view:

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sshm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 15 2005 at 11:39am
Hi,
are there any additives I need to look into buying? like seachem reef
complete or something equivalent? are these all just glorified tap water or
are they beneficial for a pico reef?
regards,
-s
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pmpt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 15 2005 at 2:07pm
Hey sshm,
When you're ready for some zoo's or a leather frag, let me know. I've got some place green with tan centers that are always loose in my tank. And I could cut a small piece of my finger leather for you. No charge, just call it one college student helping out another college student. Tank looks good!

I have a 10g, but its FW planted right now :), I think the glass is too thin to be drilled and I am not very handy with tools

To answer this question, I see 10 gallons drilled all the time. The Aquarium and Marine-Aquatics, both in Sandy, can drill your tank for you.
Good luck with the tank, and let me know when you want some frags.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sshm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 15 2005 at 3:14pm
Hi pmpt,
Thanks for the offer! I am a grad student on a stipend, so compared to
you college students, I am wealthy! I will gladly pay you for your frags,
thanks again.
regards,
-s
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pmpt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 15 2005 at 3:46pm
Very cool. I work up at ARUP, so I can probably deliver the frags to you any day that I don't have class after work. Which basically means, Thursdays.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bdfitch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 15 2005 at 3:55pm

what department are you a grad student in?  There are a couple of us here that are  chemistry grad students (not too much longer... I hope!!!!).


--
Brian
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pmpt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 15 2005 at 3:58pm
I don't attend the U, I'm going to SLCC right now. Trying to do as much as I can there. But I'm running out of classes I can take there.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sshm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 15 2005 at 4:32pm
pmpt, very cool indeed! arup is a short 5 min bike ride away, so that
would be great for me as well.
bdfitch, I second you on the not much longer part, especially the "....i
hope" part , i am a bioengineering grad btw.... here's something I am
sure we all relate to and will appreciate:

http://www.math.sunysb.edu/~caner/simpsons.wmv

Enjoy!



Edited by sshm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stun1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 16 2005 at 8:10pm
shibaji, Your tank is going to work out great.  YOu seem to be an extremely intelligent person who has some great ideas.  Let me know when that tank cycles, shouldn't be a whole lot longer, and i'll hook you up with some frags 
Take it easy.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sshm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 16 2005 at 11:29pm
Hi kevin,
thanks for the kind words. I dont know about intelligent, but I try to learn a
lot from talking to people who know more than me :). So meeting up today
was great, in addition to the test kit (posting results and latest pics soon)
and the freebies, I enjoyed going over the corals in the store and looking at
your great tank. It was great exchanging ideas and I learnt a lot in the
process myself.
Thanks again,
regards,
-shibaji

Edited by sshm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sshm Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 17 2005 at 4:07am
Hello all,

A) WATER TESTS:
I did some tests today and here are my results:

1) SpGr - 1.022
2) pH - 8.2
3) NH3 - 0.25
4) NO2 - 0.0
5) NO3 - 5.0
6) Alk - 100ppm - 5.6degrees - 2meq/l
7) PO4 - undetectable

SpGr was measured with a deep 6, pH was measured electronically,
3,4,5&7 were measured with red sea kits and Alk was measured with a
Hagen GH-KH kit (this kit and the phosphate kit are almost a year old).

I need to raise the Alk and I have ordered C-balance. Do i need to dose
Kalk as well?

--------------------------

B) UPDATES AND PHOTOS:

1) Cyano?
I found this brownish black filament waving around in the fuge chamber
amongst the chaeto today. It looks more black than brownn in the
picture. Is this cyano?



Close up:



2) Tube worm?
this guy came as a hitch hiker on a live rock. The diameter of the tube is
about half a centimeter. As you can see, there are red feathery stuff which
floats around in the current. It reacts to sudden changes in light.

Open:



Retracted on suddenly turning off the light (camera flash used to take the
pic)



I am not sure what kind of a tubeworm this is. Right now the part of LR
that it is in is shaded by another LR, do I need to expose the tubeworm to
more light?

3) Algae on the rocks:

Here are some pictures of some algae growing on the LR:







The green stuff in the first and last pic isnt fuzzy or hairy, its looks like it
is more rigid, there isnt anything that waves around in the current there.
Is this just green coraline or beginning of a hair algae problem?

4) Fuge light:

I quickly put together a fixture for lighting the chaeto chamber from the
side with a 6700k CFL. This fixture stands vertically along the back glass
near the fuge section of the tank. The acrylic seperating the display area
from the fuge area is semi-opaque, so the light shining through the
acrylic casts a glow on the display side, when the main display lights are
turned off, kinda cool.



I need to play around with the color/white balance of my camera. It is not
as bright as that at all.

Here is the fuge lit as seen from the side.



And here is a shot of the fixture itself:



Do I need to leave thhis light on 24 hours? Do I need to get rid of this
contraption since it doesnt help to light the chaeto from the side?

5) Full Tank Shot:

A FTS on Day 4:




Edited by sshm
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