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Scott B View Drop Down
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    Posted: September 29 2013 at 7:43am
Ok so i have a 150 drilled dual overflow tank with 1" bulkheads, so one drain and one return in each. My question is do i just plumb 1" down to my sump from each drain, and then 1" from my return wyed back to my 1" bulkhead return lines? Sorry if that seems confusing, lol. I was thinking my drain lines should be a larger diameter than my return lines...any advice would be appreciated
28g jbj led nano, 150 g mixed reef, skimz skimmer, AI blue sol's, Reef Angel controller, wp40's, aquamedic reef doser
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Erikts Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 29 2013 at 8:07am
I would plumb both bulk heads as drains.  1 Herbie style the second as an emergency.  Run the returns over the back of the tank.  


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Scott B Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 29 2013 at 8:16am
I had thought about that, but i dont want to run any lines in back. Anyone else with suggestions?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote love2skiutah Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 29 2013 at 8:58am
That's what I'm doing on mine. 2 drains and the extra holes are going to used for emergency drains and then I'm coming up the back. This obviously won't work if you want to put the tank tight on the wall.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Scott B Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 29 2013 at 9:06am
Are you going to use sea swirls again Aaron? Lets say that going up the back with a return is out of the question (it is a possibility, but i would rather not) then would the 1" drain and 1" return work?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ann_A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 29 2013 at 9:18am
I'm guessing you can't drill another hole, or you probably would have done that for a 3/4" return (or something similarly sized). With that said, yes a 1" drain and 1" return would work, but if it were me I'd be very uncomfortable with it because you only have the one drain which will not only be somewhat noisy, but unsafe. If it clogs, there's no emergency.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Scott B Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 29 2013 at 9:31am
I actually will have two drains and two return lines as this is a duel overflow tank. The manufacturer obviously made the tank to flow that way, i just was wondering if this was the correct way to plumb it as is. With that being said, i am definitly thinking of running returns behind the tank and having extra drain for emergency... thanks for the replies, keep em coming
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ann_A Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 29 2013 at 9:35am
I seemed to have skipped over the part about it being a dual overflow tank. That does seem a little safer if you have two overflows and a single drain in each, but I would still want the added drain capacity for emergency and just for increased flow capacity.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jeepkid Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 29 2013 at 9:41am
I have a dual overflow 120g. My returns are 3/4" and my drains are 1". I run durso drains and it keeps my tank nice and quiet. My returns are Y'd from my return pump and I have no issues. I dont think you'll have an issue using 1" drains/returns.

Edited by Jeepkid - September 29 2013 at 9:44am
Brian.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Scott B Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 29 2013 at 10:34am
Ah ha, thats what i was looking for! :-P i also have the durso drains. Thx!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMower Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 30 2013 at 8:01am
I ran one inch for both drains and returns on my new 150. Dual overflows with durso drains.
150 gal reef with 50 gal sump. Reef Octopus DCS-200 Skimmer. AI Sol Blues.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote love2skiutah Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 30 2013 at 8:20am
My 120 that you were looking at had 1 drain and 1 return in each overflow.  No overflow covers and sea swirls.  You can obviously have lids made and punch holes to bring up your return and into the sea swirls if you are going to go that route.  

This new tank I'm coming up the back and putting lids on the overflows because it gives me more flexibility in the directions I want to go with my plumbing. I am leaving the sea swirls out this time and going with 3 MP40's on the back walls and 2 MP60's on the sides.  I'm also doing Herbie drains instead of Durso this time like I had on that 120.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BobC63 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 30 2013 at 9:19am
I've ran Dursos for years and they have always been quiet - and more importantly - never gotten clogged (1" or 1.5" plumbing)
 
I think the concept of that 'bulletproof' security running a Herbie is great; but very, very few pre-drilled tanks are set up with the 3 holes per overflow that you'll need to run a Herbie with full internal plumbing.
 
So you end up needing to run external return plumbing if you go the Herbie route - which is why I never tried it.
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bryce Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 30 2013 at 9:44am
You can absolutely come over the back of the tank and still have the tank against the wall as that's how I run mine, it only takes up 1".






Edited by Bryce - September 30 2013 at 9:54am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote love2skiutah Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 30 2013 at 10:02am
Originally posted by Bryce Bryce wrote:

You can absolutely come over the back of the tank and still have the tank against the wall as that's how I run mine, it only takes up 1".





I realize you can come over the back and still have it against the wall by leaving some space. I was just saying you can't do it if you have to go tight against the wall.  Nice set up though.  I need something like that for my office. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Molli Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 30 2013 at 10:09am
You really can't go tight against the wall anyway -- especially NOT on a carpeted floor.  You do not want any part of the tank stand to sit on the tack strip for the carpet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bryce Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 30 2013 at 10:09am
Yea, the way my stand is built its just as close to the wall as if I didn't have it come over the back plus there is the baseboard on the wall. I would say the bigger issue is unless you have a canopy you have ugly return lines showing above the tank and really wouldnt look good with a rimless or tank without a canopy. I have a canopy so you cant see them. And I agree you cant have the back of the tank actually touching the wall but I always see people posting they cant have it come over the back and still have the tank against the wall...most people leave an inch or so for cables etc anyway.

"You really can't go tight against the wall anyway -- especially NOT on a carpeted floor.  You do not want any part of the tank stand to sit on the tack strip for the carpet." my tank stand has 4"x"4 "feet" all 2-3" in so no worries there


Edited by Bryce - October 01 2013 at 9:51am
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Scott B View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Scott B Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 30 2013 at 10:49am
Thanks for the replies. Would it do any good to bump the drain lines up to 1 1/2" after the 1" bulkhead, or is that just a waste of extra material? My durso's are constructed of 1 1/2" material...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark Peterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 30 2013 at 11:06am
Aloha,

There is always a way to quiet a drain. I've used all kinds of methods/designs. Amount of flow has an effect, but often it has to do as much with the bottom end where water leaves the drain pipe to enter the sump as it does with the top end where the Durso or other device is situated.

Also, the use of Class 200 PVC pipe can be a great advantage due to it's thinner walls/larger ID, allowing more water to flow more freely. You can see what I mean when you compare the end cross section of 1" Class 200 pipe with 1" Schedule 40. We don't need Sch 40 PVC. It is built to hold an enormous amount of pressure, 480 psi. Shocked By comparison, household tap water pressure is typically only 50-80 psi.

I have a completely open standpipe drain on my current system which is very quiet. The draining water makes a soft whish, what one visitor described as barely perceptible "white noise". I believe this quiet operation is due to several design integrations.
1. A larger drain opening. A 1" x 1.5" PVC reducer bushing is slipped over the end of the 1" pipe. Think of the upper opening of the drain pipe as a spillway. By measuring the circumference of the pipe we can determine the linear width of the spillway. Circumference = diameter times Pi(3.14)
1" x 3.14 = 3.14"
1.5" x 3.14 = 4.71 (33% increase)
The best way I can explain the advantage is that the larger spillway allows a lower water level which slows the speed of the water slipping over the spillway and gives more room/less water interference as it slips down into the drain.

2. Corrugated 1" plastic RV pipe. The thin wall white RV pipe extends with a curl more than a foot into the water in the sump. The corrugation disturbs and slows the water flow. The length of pipe extending down into the water causes the water to pool before it slowly exits the end of the curled pipe. Micro air bubbles, instead of shooting directly into the sump, collect into larger bubbles which rise out of the bottom end of the pipe at intervals.

I would not typically suggest this design for a drilled dual overflow rectangular aquarium set on a standard aquarium stand, but I just thought it might be useful to discuss the principles to illustrate how any drain system can be made pleasantly quiet.

Mahalo,
Mark Hug

P.S. Below are pics of the space saving Modified Durso on top of a Bushing as described above. This works very well in corner overflow compartments where space is limited.


Above - with cap on.
Below - with cap off.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Scott B Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 30 2013 at 11:14am
Thanks mark. I have not seen class 200 pipe, do they have it at the home stores or mainly plumbing stores?
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