Utah Reefs Homepage
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - A Nice Reef Tank, Quickly - The BobsReef Method
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login

A Nice Reef Tank, Quickly - The BobsReef Method

 Post Reply Post Reply Page  123>
Author
BobC63 View Drop Down
Admin Group
Admin Group
Avatar

Joined: January 17 2007
Location: Lehi, UT
Status: Offline
Points: 8964
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BobC63 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: A Nice Reef Tank, Quickly - The BobsReef Method
    Posted: September 30 2013 at 10:41pm
E) Miscellaneous Stuff - Part I: Heaters and Controllers

A heater is a necessary part of any nice Reef tank. The animals we keep all come from tropical waters, where water temperatures are around 72 - 78 degrees and tend to stay there all year long. It makes sense that we should keep our reef tanks around the same temperature. So, unless you live in a sauna, you are going to need a heater (at least in the wintertime)...

Heaters are relatively simple devices with one giant potential flaw - under the wrong circumstances, they can cook your tank. Problem is, the thermostat on the heater can fail; and when it does, Murphy's Law dictates it will most often fail stuck "on"... that means a heater that won't shut off when the temperature reaches the normal preset limit; it won't shut off when the temperature reaches dangerous levels; it just plain won't shut off...

And it doesn't take much to cook your goose, so to speak. 83 degrees will stress the more delicate corals; 85 will kill them - and a temp of 90 degrees sustained for more than an hour will most likely wipe out the entire tank, including fish. So, how do you prevent this from happening?

The most foolproof method is to use a controller to turn the heater on / off, instead of the heater relay. Use of a controller will pretty much guarantee you don't fry your tank. But controllers are expensive, and can be a little complicated to set up. Any other options?

Well, there are 2 schools of thought on how to minimize chances of overheating in lieu of using a controller. One line of advice is to use a lower wattage heater than required, or even a pair of them, to heat your tank. The concept being, if it goes bonkers it won't be strong enough to get the temp too high.

The other advice - the one I recommend and follow - is to use a slightly higher wattage heater - or even 2 - to heat the tank.

Why would this be a better way to go? Won't a big heater just cook the tank that much quicker?

Yes and no. When heaters fail with in the 'on' position, what has happened is that the contact relays have melted / fused together, creating a permanent electrical circuit which then prevents the heater from shutting off. IMO the reason this happens is precisely because the heater has been running too long / too often, the heat transfers down the glass tube into the area where the electronics reside... and the contacts fuse together. Ever touch a working heater, even underwater? The outside of that sucker gets hot. With a bigger heater (or 2) they heat the water so quickly that they don't stay 'on' nearly as long. The heat doesn't have as good a chance to transfer down the tube into the electronics. Plus, higher wattage heaters are generally larger (longer), meaning a greater physical distance from the heating element (in the bottom third of the heater tube)and the electronics (up near the top end of the heater). IMO that helps the electronics stay cooler even when the heater is running.

I can tell you that I either have a good idea, or just really good luck... because I have never had a heater get stuck 'on' in one of my setups - ever.

As for those controllers..? I often get asked, or see as a topic of discussion on the Forum, "Do I Need a Controller?"

The direct answer is NO - you do not 'need' a controller.

But they sure are a nice thing to have.

I'll expand my thoughts on controllers tomorrow...
 
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
Ok, it's tomorrow Wink
 
As I said last night, controllers really are a nice thing to have for that 'nice '
Reef tank.
 
But let's not get ahead of ourselves, here:
 
 - What is a controller and what does it do?
 
An aquarium controller is basically a small computer processor hooked together with a group of electrical outlets, electric switches, and electronic sensors to help monitor certain tank conditions and automatically perform certain tasks (such as turning lights on / off, heater on / off, topping off tank water, alerting you to a problem condition) based on the information the user inputs into the device; and depending on the switches / sensors / probes that have been linked to the device. Some of the more advanced controller systems have the abilty for remote programming / monitoring via a computer wireless network or even your smart phone.
 
 
 - Which controller is the best choice for me?
 
A lot of people go with the Apex Reef Controller by Neptune Systems. They are kind of the 'gold standard' right now as far as capability and programmabilty goes. They are one of the controllers that you can link to your laptop or smartphone, which is kind of cool and comes in handy if you are not home alot. You can even link a webcam to actually see your tank displayed, on your phone, in real time. But they aren't cheap - figure on spending around $500 to purchase new. And then possibly hundreds more for some of the 'extras' in terms of probes, sensors, etc.
 
Other companies, such as Digital Aquatics, Reef Angel and Tunze make controllers that are also pretty neat. And you can get the "Jr" or "lite" versions of most major controller models for around $200. They won't have all the 'bells & whistles' of the big boys, and they won't do everything the $500+ units can do... but they still can provide some peace of mind and handle most major tasks.
 
 
 - What do you recommend?
 
Here's what I think. If you can afford to get a controller, buy it. And remember, you can look for a used one without too much risk of it being a lemon.
 
As far as which one / how advanced (expensive) to go..?  Well...
 
First, if you are looking to set up a large 'nice' Reef Tank (150g or above) you are - quite frankly - already going to spend a boatload of money. Adding $700 - $800 for a cutting edge controller system is really not a huge purchase compared to the thousands you will be spending altogether. And you can look at this controller purchase as a type of 'insurance' against a disaster happening unnoticed that will wipe out that multi - thousand dollar investment. If I were shelling out $5K to put together a totally sweet 180g Reef I wouldn't hesitate to go with a filled-out Apex or similar. I'd think it was money well spent.
 
If you are looking at a small 'nice' Reef tank (say, under 50g) I think that a controller is more of a nice 'option' than a neccessity... and I wouldn't go the high-end model route, unless I was a tech geek / junkie who just wanted to have the coolest gadgets he could hook up to his nano tank. 
 
What about all of us in the middle? With that model 75 - 120g Reef tank we have been talking about for this thread?
 
I'd lean towards getting at least an entry-level unit to handle those basic chores like turing off the lighting, controlling the heater(s) so you don't fry the tank, maybe running an ATO...
 
Now, if you are wanting to go all high-end... well, that's fine, too. It's just not mandatory, IMO.
 
Myself, I run a DA Reefkeeper Lite 'Plus' setup on my 90g Reef. With it I can monitor & control temp, pH, and ORP levels. I can run an ATO off of it, it turns my lighting and heater on / off, and it has a total of 8 linked outlets for all my equipment. Not too bad for under $300 new (I got mine used). Now, it doesn't have wireless capability - and I can't link it to my phone; but, for me, I was OK with not needing those features.
 
In summary, a controller is a nice option to have - that becomes more of a neccessity depending on the value of your overall Reef tank investment.
 


Edited by BobC63 - October 01 2013 at 12:00pm
- My Current Tank: 65g Starfire (sitting empty for 2+ years) -

* Marine & Reef tanks since 1977 *
Back to Top
Aquatic Evolution View Drop Down
Pet Store
Pet Store
Avatar

Joined: July 07 2006
Location: United States
Status: Offline
Points: 1332
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Aquatic Evolution Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 30 2013 at 3:17pm
Well said Bob! Thumbs Up
Back to Top
Mark Peterson View Drop Down
Paid Member
Paid Member
Avatar

Joined: June 19 2002
Location: Murray
Status: Offline
Points: 21436
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark Peterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 30 2013 at 11:34am
Bob is great to accept our comments.
When I wrote that old thread I did most of it in a few days so there wasn't time for many comments to be inserted but, ...plenty of comments came in later pages. It was also focused mainly on biofiltration. I didn't touch pumps, lighting, etc. like Bob is doing. This thread is awesome as it allows a discussion about not only the many options for any hobbyist in their particular situation but it also seems to come together with conclusions that make sense for most hobbyists. Bob is brilliant.Thumbs Up
Reefkeeping Tips, & quick, easy setup tricks:
www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9244
Pay it forward - become a paid WMAS member
Back to Top
jdinchak View Drop Down
Presidency
Presidency
Avatar

Joined: July 06 2009
Location: Sandy
Status: Offline
Points: 4600
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jdinchak Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 30 2013 at 10:33am
Originally posted by BobC63 BobC63 wrote:

I'm OK w/ Mark adding his input...
 
Gotta give him credit, at least he is passionate about what he feels and sticks to his guns Clap
 
And, don't worry - we'll get him into the 21st century sooner or later Wink
 
My knocks on PCs vs. MH are these:
 
 - Since PC lighting has been 'out of favor / not the HOT thing' for a long while now, finding used fixtures is not as easy as finding used MH stuff (which right now is flooding the used equip market at bargain basement pricing, as many of the MH freaks are trying to become LED freaks - me included)
 
 - MH I know will absolutely grow ANY SPS corals; including the rarer / HE stuff like Red Dragon or Pearlberry Acros, Oregon Torts, 20K Lokani, etc... Personally, I would not chance a $100+ Red Dragon frag under PC lighting under any circumstances 
 
("Mark, that's just crazy talk!" as Adam would say LOL)
 
 - Going forward, the already small- niche PC market will continue to dwindle; I can forsee a time when finding any new PC bulbs in larger sizes may be a challenge - MHs, on the other hand, will always be around - as there is still a substantial loyal market for them despite the influx of LED technology


I had a PC/MH setup a friend gave me and the bulbs for PC got so expensive and hard to find we sold that unit. 

I still love my T5's but I can't argue a MH, I have been in hobby 4 years and when we started all you heard was MH, some amazing tanks are running great on their MH's. 


180G Mixed Reef Tank

170G Dart Frog Tank
Back to Top
love2skiutah View Drop Down
Guest
Guest
Avatar

Joined: May 25 2012
Location: Centerville
Status: Offline
Points: 1229
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote love2skiutah Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 30 2013 at 10:12am
Originally posted by BobC63 BobC63 wrote:

 
 
 - Since PC lighting has been 'out of favor / not the HOT thing' for a long while now, finding used fixtures is not as easy as finding used MH stuff (which right now is flooding the used equip market at bargain basement pricing, as many of the MH freaks are trying to become LED freaks - me included)
 
 

For example.  I purchased my Hallide/T5 set for $1,200.  2 years old and I dumped it for $100.  Cry - I have nothing against MH, I just have a heat issue with my tank, so I'm hoping that switching to LED will help out so I don't have to get a chiller.  
Back to Top
justchillinuno View Drop Down
Guest
Guest
Avatar

Joined: July 31 2012
Location: Kearns
Status: Offline
Points: 513
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote justchillinuno Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 30 2013 at 9:50am
Thank you for this write up... We are about to change out of our 55g and into the 90g we bought from Jeffm Awhile ago... I am going to use this for getting the new tank up and ready for our current reef transfer!


Thanks again this is great!
55g - RIP - Moved to 90g
36g Bow holding tank
90g Reef Tank
Dreams of many more!
Back to Top
BobC63 View Drop Down
Admin Group
Admin Group
Avatar

Joined: January 17 2007
Location: Lehi, UT
Status: Offline
Points: 8964
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BobC63 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 30 2013 at 9:36am
I'm OK w/ Mark adding his input...
 
Gotta give him credit, at least he is passionate about what he feels and sticks to his guns Clap
 
And, don't worry - we'll get him into the 21st century sooner or later Wink
 
My knocks on PCs vs. MH are these:
 
 - Since PC lighting has been 'out of favor / not the HOT thing' for a long while now, finding used fixtures is not as easy as finding used MH stuff (which right now is flooding the used equip market at bargain basement pricing, as many of the MH freaks are trying to become LED freaks - me included)
 
 - MH I know will absolutely grow ANY SPS corals; including the rarer / HE stuff like Red Dragon or Pearlberry Acros, Oregon Torts, 20K Lokani, etc... Personally, I would not chance a $100+ Red Dragon frag under PC lighting under any circumstances 
 
("Mark, that's just crazy talk!" as Adam would say LOL)
 
 - Going forward, the already small- niche PC market will continue to dwindle; I can forsee a time when finding any new PC bulbs in larger sizes may be a challenge - MHs, on the other hand, will always be around - as there is still a substantial loyal market for them despite the influx of LED technology
- My Current Tank: 65g Starfire (sitting empty for 2+ years) -

* Marine & Reef tanks since 1977 *
Back to Top
reefguru View Drop Down
Guest
Guest


Joined: October 31 2010
Location: SLC
Status: Offline
Points: 18
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote reefguru Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 30 2013 at 5:37am
Originally posted by Mark Peterson Mark Peterson wrote:

Gotta love this thread. I wait with great anticipation for each new section.
I agree with Bob about picking up MH lights for a good price, but I believe that PC lighting works well too and can also be found at good prices because of the LED rage. I currently have unplugged my DIY dual 55W PC which was lighting the sections of my system located in the shadow to the side of the window.  I had raised it to two feet above the tanks but it was still too bright, causing red Macro, Ulva and Coralline algae to bleach and burn.
I use Helios brand Super Grow tubes in all my PC fixtures. They look like this:
This pink-blue combo combined with a full Actinic PC surprises people at how well it makes colors pop and coral grow. I dislike how the standard blue-white PC tubes make colors look washed out.

My 2 cents,
Mark Hug


Not trying to be rude but......Lets not forget this is Bob's thread about how to build a nice modern reef aquarium, you have you own "how to" thread with your methods.  
Back to Top
love2skiutah View Drop Down
Guest
Guest
Avatar

Joined: May 25 2012
Location: Centerville
Status: Offline
Points: 1229
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote love2skiutah Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 29 2013 at 4:53pm
Bob, I want to see your write up on media!
Back to Top
love2skiutah View Drop Down
Guest
Guest
Avatar

Joined: May 25 2012
Location: Centerville
Status: Offline
Points: 1229
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote love2skiutah Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 29 2013 at 4:46pm
Originally posted by Mark Peterson Mark Peterson wrote:

I see a lot of fake coral on the shelves behind that evidently makes up the beautiful coral heads in this large tank. In the absence of adequate in-tank biological filtration, some extensive filtration equipment must be situated outside the display, right?


This is just the company that built his rock structure so those are probably someone else's. All his coral is real. He has a thread on reef central with almost 800 pages on this tank. He started out with live rock and then ripped it all out and then did ceramic rock. The guys he referred me to were back east and they actually get their stuff from cerameco in salt lake.
Back to Top
Mark Peterson View Drop Down
Paid Member
Paid Member
Avatar

Joined: June 19 2002
Location: Murray
Status: Offline
Points: 21436
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark Peterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 29 2013 at 4:41pm
I see a lot of fake coral on the shelves behind that evidently makes up the beautiful coral heads in this large tank. In the absence of adequate in-tank biological filtration, some extensive filtration equipment must be situated outside the display, right?
Reefkeeping Tips, & quick, easy setup tricks:
www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9244
Pay it forward - become a paid WMAS member
Back to Top
love2skiutah View Drop Down
Guest
Guest
Avatar

Joined: May 25 2012
Location: Centerville
Status: Offline
Points: 1229
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote love2skiutah Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 29 2013 at 4:15pm
Originally posted by Mark Peterson Mark Peterson wrote:

Gotta love this thread. I wait with great anticipation for each new section.
I agree with Bob about picking up MH lights for a good price, but I believe that PC lighting works well too and can also be found at good prices because of the LED rage. I currently have unplugged my DIY dual 55W PC which was lighting the sections of my system located in the shadow to the side of the window.  I had raised it to two feet above the tanks but it was still too bright, causing red Macro, Ulva and Coralline algae to bleach and burn.
I use Helios brand Super Grow tubes in all my PC fixtures. They look like this:
This pink-blue combo combined with a full Actinic PC surprises people at how well it makes colors pop and coral grow. I dislike how the standard blue-white PC tubes make colors look washed out.

My 2 cents,
Mark Hug

P.S. Looking at that tank by Ching, there is so much coral that I cannot see the ceramic towers. Smile Like I always say, "Coral filters the water". I also see an extremely clean sand bed. I'll bet the key to that system's success is an extensive attached filtration system with its own room which might rival the one put together by our own Tileman/Brad here in Murray.

Here is a pic of the original towers.  Also remember his tank is like 12 or 14 feet long, 4 foot high, 4 foot wide.  His filtration is the most amazing, clean system I've ever seen.  It's huge.  



Edited by love2skiutah - September 29 2013 at 4:21pm
Back to Top
Mark Peterson View Drop Down
Paid Member
Paid Member
Avatar

Joined: June 19 2002
Location: Murray
Status: Offline
Points: 21436
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mark Peterson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 29 2013 at 4:12pm
Gotta love this thread. I wait with great anticipation for each new section.
I agree with Bob about picking up MH lights for a good price, but I believe that PC lighting works well too and can also be found at good prices because of the LED rage. I currently have unplugged my DIY dual 55W PC which was lighting the sections of my system located in the shadow to the side of the window.  I had raised it to two feet above the tanks but it was still too bright, causing red Macro, Ulva and Coralline algae to bleach and burn.
I use Helios brand Super Grow tubes in all my PC fixtures. They look like this:
This pink-blue combo combined with a full Actinic PC surprises people at how well it makes colors pop and coral grow. I dislike how the standard blue-white PC tubes make colors look washed out.

My 2 cents,
Mark Hug

P.S. Looking at that tank by Ching, there is so much coral that I cannot see the ceramic towers. Smile Like I always say, "Coral filters the water". I also see an extremely clean sand bed. I'll bet the key to that system's success is an extensive attached filtration system with its own room which might rival the one put together by our own Tileman/Brad here in Murray.
Reefkeeping Tips, & quick, easy setup tricks:
www.utahreefs.com/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=9244
Pay it forward - become a paid WMAS member
Back to Top
BobC63 View Drop Down
Admin Group
Admin Group
Avatar

Joined: January 17 2007
Location: Lehi, UT
Status: Offline
Points: 8964
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BobC63 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 28 2013 at 10:37pm
D) Choosing Your Lighting

No single facet of your Reef tank will have as many options and choices as the lighting system.

Do you go with Fluorescent lights, such as T5s, VHOs or even Compact Fluorescents? Maybe a Metal Halide system is better? What about LEDs?

Maybe some combination of 2 (or more) types?


Most of the above systems will prove to be satisfactory; although I would probably stay away from the Compact Fluorescents (they are not strong enough).

So, if I was setting up a tank right now... what lights would I get?

I would start with a used Metal Halide system.

Why?

With Metal Halides you can grow anything; SPS, LPS, soft corals, and clams. And with the recent surge in the popularity of LED lighting, you can find many MH systems being put up for sale on the cheap.

Run with the halides to start. Once your tank has been up and running for awhile, then you can take your time and shop around and check out other hobbyists tanks, to see if you discover a different style of lighting that you like better... or, you can just stay with the halides!
- My Current Tank: 65g Starfire (sitting empty for 2+ years) -

* Marine & Reef tanks since 1977 *
Back to Top
BobC63 View Drop Down
Admin Group
Admin Group
Avatar

Joined: January 17 2007
Location: Lehi, UT
Status: Offline
Points: 8964
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BobC63 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 28 2013 at 10:05pm
It's all good, guys... for the record I had some Vida Rock in my last tank (the 93 Cube). I didn't have any nutrient problems, but I also added a good quantity of live rock in the tank as well.

I will say that it did take a looooong time - like 7 or 8 months - to get a good amount of coralline coverage on the stuff...

- My Current Tank: 65g Starfire (sitting empty for 2+ years) -

* Marine & Reef tanks since 1977 *
Back to Top
love2skiutah View Drop Down
Guest
Guest
Avatar

Joined: May 25 2012
Location: Centerville
Status: Offline
Points: 1229
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote love2skiutah Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 28 2013 at 8:01pm
These 3 towers are made from Ceramic Rock.  Ching was the one who kind of talked me into going Ceramic Rock with my 400 gallon, but I actually decided to stick with the live rock in the end. I think you can make Ceramic work, it may just take some time.  There may be some tricks to it, but personally, I just didn't want to spend the money on new ceramic rock. I really wanted to try it though.  Sorry, wasn't meaning to jack your awesome thread Bob. I just wanted to point this out to Molli.  



Edited by love2skiutah - September 28 2013 at 10:08pm
Back to Top
bur01014 View Drop Down
Guest
Guest
Avatar

Joined: March 02 2010
Location: Salt Lake
Status: Offline
Points: 1435
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bur01014 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 28 2013 at 1:43pm
8 months to get coralline going on the vida for me, but the stuff acts like a sponge, becoming saturated with nutrients, not sure who ended up getting the rock from me.....the aquarium also had a white Red Sea max on display they used vida for and had a similar experience as me, maybe the newer vida is different? In the end they too also replaced all the rock with figi before selling the tank several months later to someone here on the forums.....good luck with it, maybe your experience will be different, regardless, I'd cure it for a while and check for silicates....I've dealt with all types of algae, but have never seen the white fuzz algae I experienced that thrived in a ulns environment....RC experts also couldn't ID it....

Sorry bob, I'm done, let's get thread back on track, look forward to more updates
Back to Top
Molli View Drop Down
Guest
Guest


Joined: June 28 2012
Location: Bountiful, Utah
Status: Offline
Points: 1109
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Molli Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 28 2013 at 11:51am
Originally posted by bur01014 bur01014 wrote:

I had a 100% vida rock tank a little over a year ago.....all of it eventually turned black after being covered in coralline due to its nature for absorbing nutrients, in addition, the stuff leeched silicates for over a year and I ended up shutting that tank down due to all the strange algae issues.....I think I gave all my vida away for free to someone on the forums, I wouldn't touch the stuff, but that's just my experience.....


How long did it take the rock to get covered in coralline? I have been experiencing a similar problem with using dry marco rock in my 65 gallon tank, which I started up exactly a year ago, though I haven't had any problem with the rock turning black. My problem was strange algae issues. I did a lot of research on line and found some people complaining that marco rock leached phosphates; while others claimed no it did not. So ... I did an experiment by putting some dry marco rock that I hadn't yet used in a buck of salt water with a circ pump and heater and tested for awhile - no phosphate problems. I discovered that I was to blame for my algae problem -- I wasn't properly using my RO/DI water filtration and that was the source of my problem. Do you know if the people you gave the rock to have had problems with it. Oh and by the way, my tank is completely cleared of its algae problem now .. took for about 2-3 months to get it completely cleared up.

Back to Top
bur01014 View Drop Down
Guest
Guest
Avatar

Joined: March 02 2010
Location: Salt Lake
Status: Offline
Points: 1435
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bur01014 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 28 2013 at 11:28am
I had a 100% vida rock tank a little over a year ago.....all of it eventually turned black after being covered in coralline due to its nature for absorbing nutrients, in addition, the stuff leeched silicates for over a year and I ended up shutting that tank down due to all the strange algae issues.....I think I gave all my vida away for free to someone on the forums, I wouldn't touch the stuff, but that's just my experience.....
Back to Top
Molli View Drop Down
Guest
Guest


Joined: June 28 2012
Location: Bountiful, Utah
Status: Offline
Points: 1109
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Molli Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: September 28 2013 at 9:24am
Originally posted by Mark Peterson Mark Peterson wrote:

I love this thread Thumbs Up and would like to add my opinion about aquascaping.

Originally posted by BobC63 BobC63 wrote:

Vida Rock is awesome because you can (as Molli has said) get custom shapes and sizes made to order. The #1 disadvantage is that it is dry, sterile rock - and that will mean a long cycle time for the tank. If you are up for the wait, go for it!
There are two more disadvantages, to me anyway:
#2 - The surface is relatively smooth. The pattern of random size and shape holes, dents, cracks and bumps is missing. Vida Rock does not look like LR; and
#3 - The algae that coats its surface is dark. Vida Rock does not easily attract a growth of beautiful pink and purple coralline algae.

You very clearly haven't seen much vida rock lately in tanks cause you couldn't be more wrong about both #2 and #3.
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page  123>
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.03
Copyright ©2001-2018 Web Wiz Ltd.

This page was generated in 0.530 seconds.