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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hedgefish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 30 2011 at 6:14am
so is the specturm not right and do i not have it high enough,i have 120 watt led from apollo reef led ,been trying everything just by turning the blues on to just turning the whites on,please help.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bfessler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 30 2011 at 6:54am
I've been running LED's on my system for about 6 months. Getting the right amount of light seems to be the biggest issue when running LED's only. The light isn't the same as T5 or MH and I did have an issue with it bleaching out certain corals because of the amount of light directed at the corals.

For this reason I would only go with a dimmable fixture. I built my 24 LED fixture with dual dimming modules so I can control the intensity of the whites and blues independently. This has allowed me to fine tune the light output without having to raise or lower the fixture. I have found that as the coral acclimate to the LED light that I have been able to gradually increase the light output till it now at the same level as what used to bleach my corals.

I'm not familiar with the Apollo LED fixture but I assume it is non dimmable. I would keep the fixture mounted high for now and reduce the photo period to about 4 hours per day and then increase it gradually as you see the corals respond. I also like running the Blue LED's for a little longer than the whites. The whites promote rapid growth while the blues seem to intensify the colors.

Check out this on Reefs.com of a local reef that run's LED's supplimented by VHOs on a 210 gallon tank for an idea of the color health a properly tuned LED lighting system can produce.

http://www.reefs.com/blog/2011/11/28/terence-fugazzi-210-reef/

Edited by bfessler - November 30 2011 at 6:57am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bfessler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 30 2011 at 7:14am
I just took a closer look at your previous posts. Is this light fixture over a 35 gallon tank? If so I believe the problem is the fixture is way too powerful for the tank. I use only 72 watts of LED over a 50 gallon frag tank and I only run them at about 75% power.

The tank in the link above runs 324 watts of LED's on a 210 gallon tank which comes to about 1.5 watts per gallon. 120 watts of power over a 35 gallon tank comes to about 3.5 watts per gallon or more than twice the output of that tank.

You may be OK with it mounted 15 to 24" above the tank but I wouldn't lower it much. Try cutting back the photoperiod and see what happens. Good Luck.

Edited by bfessler - November 30 2011 at 7:25am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ryan Thompson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 30 2011 at 9:22am
I will just throw out my 2 cents here. I have been in the hobby for almost 6 years and used almost every type of lighting there is.

I started with Power compacts, switched to T5, back to power compacts (new tank), tried Metal Halide, back to T5 and now LED for the last 8 months.

Which is the best for me and my tanks? T5, hands down no questions.

Why? I am SICK AND TIRED of not knowing where to put corals under my LEDs. One coral does great 8" from the lights and another has to be shaded and another wants to be right under the light source. Yet, all these corals were in the same place with my T5 setup.

I am also tired of limited spectrum and trying to get certain colors to come out. Pinks, forget about it! They dull out under LEDs over time. People that want to argue that with me, let's see your tank a year apart with the LEDs.

For me the blue LEDs are AMAZING at making things pop. T5 and VHO can NOT compete with a good blue LED. White LEDs can NOT compete with MH, T5 or even VHO. The spectra is so limited in them.

I will give LEDs another 6 months over my tank. They work great for softies and LPS but every SPS that goes in, dies in days. Water quality? I highly doubt it. I like to think I have a very small idea of what I am doing. I kept SPS in this tank under the Power Compact lights that it comes with. Put SPS under the LEDs and death.

In 6 months my wife and I should be moving into a house and at that point I really hope to set up a new tank. If my LEDs have kept SPS alive, happy and growing I will keep the LEDs. If not, I am going back to T5s in a heartbeat.

For me, I don't think there is a huge difference between manufactures. As long as they are using good LEDs and properly drive them, they are all pretty equal. LEDs have major cons that no one will ever point out. If you point them out, the LED lovers jump down your throat.

That is all MY experience and MY opinion.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hedgefish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 30 2011 at 9:56am
i think i had it to close to the water and burnt a few of my corals,raised it up to 15 inches above the water and hope for the best,i want everything to grow and its not happen,they want me to cut back the time the lifgts are on to a couple hours a day. so if i did that ,how do the corals grow
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ryan Thompson Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 30 2011 at 9:58am
It is called light acclimation. I wouldn't plan on too much growth for a little bit. The corals have to adjust to an all new light. This can take months for some of them.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hedgefish Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 30 2011 at 10:09am
should i raise the light higher than 15 inches above the water
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bfessler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November 30 2011 at 12:22pm
Leave it at 15" and decrease the photo period. If they don't respond within a couple weeks then try raising it up higher.

Hi Ryan, I don't want to argue with you but I've had just the opposite results with SPS. My slow growing Acro's have tripled their growth rate and the colors have become much more intense. Especially the Pinks. I have some Pink Monti Cap and Pink Digi that were more orange till I put them under the LED's. When I get back to UT. I'll post some before and after pics of the same colonies.

Now I do have to say that I think the best growth I have seen has been with my LED's supplemented by my T5's for about 4 to 6 hours per day. I am coming to believe that the ideal fixture may be a T5/LED combo. I'm not sure there is a perfect single light source out there and a Hybrid may just be the answer.

Just out of curiosity are your LED's a DIY fixture or manufactured product? Also are you running with or without optics. I don't bother with the optics in a shallow 24" or less tank and find that I get better spread and more uniform growth. For deeper tanks I think a combination of LED's with and without optics gives better penetration and still adequate spread.

For my next build I am planning a 24 LED fixture using Cool White, Neutral White, Blue and Royal Blue LED's to try to get a little more spectrum out of the LED's. It will also have 2 dimming channels so I can adjust the intensity of the blues and whites independently. This is a feature I believe should be standard on any serious LED fixture. My current fixture uses only Cool White and Royal Blue. I think you're right about the limited spectrum from a single white and even blue LED. Until I move to a larger tank I won't be experimenting with violet, greens or red LED's though they intrigue me. I don't think putting the added complexity into a smaller DIY fixture would be worth wile.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote russianrick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December 02 2011 at 8:49am
Wow, talk about controversy?!  I did a fair amount of research recently on different types of light, and the part that bothered me most about LED lighting was how narrow the spectrum is.  As I understand it, LED lights are not capable of putting out light in the ultra-violet spectrum, because it is too high-energy.  Having said that, I want to add that you don't need a ton of UV light for your corals, but having Ultraviolet light will add to the color as your corals produce natural proteins to protect themselves from this.  This is an effect that is also lost in old bulbs as they will start to lose the high-energy spectrum faster than the visible light spectrum.

I have seen bstuver's tank, and it is absolutely stunning with the way the LED's make the colors pop, but I prefer a little more balanced look.  I have my tank under 1 full actinic t5 HO, 1 10000K t5 HO, and 1 150W 10000K Metal Halide (I got the MH from bstuver...and I'm not giving it back Wink).  I am planning on replacing my t5's with Blue Plus ATI bulbs in the next few months as it is time to change them.  I absolutely love how my corals are growing.  They are getting GREAT color.  The person I got them from (who had them for years) even said that the color is a lot richer in my tank than it every was in his tank.

While 450nm is the most important color (blue), you need to have some balance, which is what I use the cool 10000K MH for.  No one can argue that t5 HO's and MH's are more mature technology than LED lighting, but I have definitely seen many beautiful tanks using LED's (especially yours bstuver).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jdinchak Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December 02 2011 at 10:01am
Another option for that "LED pop" without going full LED is to supplement your light source with stunner strips.  I am looking at adding some to my T-5's.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bfessler Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December 02 2011 at 12:35pm
Here are a few pics of my SPS in the Frag Tank running LED's

Pinks,
Before LED

After LED

Recently fragged colony of Pink Monti

Orange Monti


Acro: This guy barely grew an inch in over a year. After LED's it's now branching out and has grown 2" in all directions in 6 months.


It's true that you need to have the correct spectrum and intensity but with a dimmable LED fixture it's easy to dial in these types of results.
The LEDs in my frag system are just Royal Blue and Cool White but my next fixture will have Neutral White, Cool White, Royal Blue and Blue to add even more spectrum.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trevor40 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December 02 2011 at 2:08pm
I have been using a blue Panarma LED fixture with my MH and have seen a lot of corals color up and "pop" more. I'm not sold 100% on LEDs on due to the price and I love that I can change the light spectrum with my MH easily. I
I guess you could do that with DIY LEDs.

I also have the ATI fixture on my other tank and love the way it looks. With LEDs on there as supplemental lighting I still get the shimmer that I love. It's safe to say its all personal preference.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bstuver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December 02 2011 at 2:24pm
I will say I have gone back and forth with the LED. I can't tell if my reds are turning orange which is I know one of the things that can happen. I am debating right now going back to my with led suppliment.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Trevor40 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December 02 2011 at 2:36pm
What is you did LED with T5s as a supplement? Buy 2 T5s to bring out differant colors?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BillyC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December 02 2011 at 2:36pm
I think I have to side with Ryan Thompson on this one. Bfessler, maybe it's just your camera (and please correct me if it is) but the "after LED" pics actually look more pastel and pale. As far as the acro, if it barely grew an inch in over a whole year I suspect other factors other than lighting to be the cause.

I was pretty much sold on LEDs and was planning on buying the new ecotech radions. After seeing this thread im glad I didn't take the plunge because I can't imagine having to light-acclimate every single coral I get and POSSIBLY sacrifice the colors I am getting with metal halides! Personally I think I will stick to the leds as supplements at least for now.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phys Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December 02 2011 at 4:47pm
I think really that the companies out there may not have the right idea for the type of LED they should have on their fixtures. I built mine with 450nm actinic and cool white leds. Some colors have faded as i have kept the color temp lower by decreasing the output but recently i've noticed better growth and some color returning in the corals. When i build my next fixutre for my 75 gallon, i'll be doing much like Bfessler will be. I'll definately do a mixture of warm and cool white LEDs with a few red, blue and green in the mix possibly. Its only a thought so far but when the time gets closer to getting it, i'll post about the design.
Your MH bulbs are disigned in a similar way as you could design a LED system (which really it looks like it hasnt been done at least for the fixture). They have designed them to have a large output in the blue region of the spectrum with peaks in various wavelengths to hit the sensitivity of coral. Here's a good example: http://www.ushio.com/products/petcare/aqualite.htm
Ideally, you'd want to match the sensitivity of the coral at the wavelengths and provide light in those areas the most while diminishing (yet, not fully) the light in other less important wavelengths. This is much more simple with LEDs because you can buy them with restrictive outputs. This is the premise that i'll be working from on my next fixture.
UV does create pigments for the corals but to what amount should you have that is not only safe for the corals, but for YOU! Be careful when dealing with UV light or you may degrade your eye.... then what use will coral colors be.


Edited by phys - December 02 2011 at 5:04pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phys Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December 02 2011 at 4:56pm
One other thing, for those of you who have not seen a good spread of light with your LEDs, remember some come with lenses on them. This restricts the spread. If you have them, you'll definately have to move your fixture higher and increase the output. I stayed with the 90 and 100 degree optics so i wouldnt have to raise my fixture... they have a pretty decent spread of color throughout the tank.

Edited by phys - December 02 2011 at 5:05pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phys Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December 02 2011 at 5:35pm
If you are looking to get some new LEDs, check this out: http://www.reef2reef.com/forums/reef-led-lights/69574-cree-xp-g-cool-white-spectrum.html
They basically go through (towards the end) what i am looking for. They sell their fixtures or DIY fixtures for a decent price. http://reefledlights.com/
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rufessor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December 20 2011 at 1:56pm
Not an LED lover or hater, but diving in with eyes wide open on my end.  I have the following components in hand.

14 Cree XP-G Neutral White Bin 4a (Highest color temp of NW)
28 Cree XP-E Royal Blue (Bin 316 at 450 nM, highest intensity bin available, lowest wavelength)
4   Cree Blue XP-E

Ordering 
6 Ture VIolet 420 nM 
4 Long Red
2 Cyan

Will have it all on 5 MeanWell ELN-60-48P drivers run through a ReefAngel that I will program for full control over all aspects.

I have read a very large amount of information about this in designing my build.  I think that with LEDs it is VERY difficult to compare one persons experience to another as the use of a lens, spacing of LED on heat sink, Number of LED/Gallon, color mixing of LEDs in build, and even spacing of different colored LED on heat sinks can lead to VASTLY different lighting intensities, colors, and distribution of light intensity in the tank.

IF you use Lenses on your LEDs and your not VERY CAREFUL about spacing them extremely close together you will get serious color blend issues, seriously uneven light intensity readings, and if your doing it exactly wrong you can even end up with higher intensity on the BOTTOM of the tank than the top due to overlap of light cones and additive intensity nearing the bottom whereas the top will have bright cones of light alternating with dark areas...  All of these statements I am making on the basis of looking carefully at MANY designs, with PAR readings, and the evolution of these designs as things were changed to correct issues.

DIY LED is still probably on the bleeding edge a bit in terms of there is nothing close to a universal or even majority consensus on the best way to mix the wavelengths LEDs produce to accomplish three things,

Good Color
Good intensity distribution
Good growth

In my reading, I have come to believe (and I am testing this with my build, so give me a month and PM to come see how it turned out)

Cool whites are NOT the way to go, simply too stark with very poor red color rendition
The current change is moving from Cool Whites to Neutral Whites (companies selling these are seeing a shift to the vast majority of builds using NW now whereas 1 yr ago it was all cool whites)

Royal Blues mix with cool whites but your missing a bit of the 500-520 nm wavelength required to get good colors, so people are adding 1 standard Blue per 5-7 Royal Blue, being careful because you can end up with a windex color if you use too many.

The newest rage is the use of True VIolet 420 nm LEDs which hit a nice photo absorption peak in the corals, and some people are saying that you can mix in a far red LED to get better coloration there.  I am myself concerned with color blending a few reds into my build but will try it and see what happens.

As for the True VIolet, having experience with stunners I am going to use these for sure as a moon light and will try mixing them into the white and royal blue channels during the day, but expect no notable color difference (visually) as its simply too short a wavelengh and will get swamped out.  

ALL my set up will be completely PWM dimmable... the goal here is not so much to tune color (but I am sure I will) but more for lighting effects like storm, cloud, sunrise, sunset etc.  

I am really really hoping that between all the reading I have done, that this build will come out well and the corals will love it.  I will post updates in my build thread after the new year when I get time to actually put all the pieces together.  

My total cost will be LESS than some of the fancy (not that fancy acutally) 36" T5 setups at retail.  But not much less, and you could find NUMEROUS light choices that would cost less, substantially.  For me-  I KNOW this is an experiment.  Its fun and I am willing to play.

IF your looking for an out of the box guaranteed solution, its not there yet.  I think I can PROVE that by just asking you to look at the commercial lighting solutions for LED.  EVERY few months a new one comes out that uses a completely DIFFERENT mix of LEDS.  People jump on the latest and are essentially hoping that company X got it right, but so far, company X changes their product every 6 months, substantially.  

For me DIY was the only way to go, I CAN CHANGE things.  And I anticipate I will need to.  Wish me the best of luck, I probably need it.  
 
Oh... if you want a commercial fixture that looks sweet and dont want to deal with all the wires etc... the MaxSpect Mazarra looks interesting, uses essentially the same LED DIY projects use (which are almost undoubtely the best available) and looks to be essentailly the same as a DIY project in that you can swap out LEDs!  and lens... so for more dollars, you do get something that you can change... which is quite interesting.  I know a few others are upgradable, so do your research, but given the rapidity of change in thinking re color mixing etc... if I did purchase a fixture it would have to be CHANGABLE down to the per LED level.  Because its going to change........... 
 
But for me, I like to play with soldering guns, computer programming for the controller, etc etc... and I can do all that and hopefully get a nice light out for far less money than any commercial solution.
 
In terms of intensity etc, LEDs have long ago proved themselves its just color rendition, light distrubution, and color blending that were all bantering about at this point, very important to be sure. 


Edited by rufessor - December 20 2011 at 3:02pm
Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler -A.E.
57 Gallon RImless build in progress check the thread before if becomes boring and just full of nice pictures of colorful coral!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote phys Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: December 20 2011 at 3:30pm
i think you're definately on the right track! Id be very interested in seeing your setup when you're finished. I am going to have to agree with you that cool whites do cut off too much color.
FYI, those meanwell drivers sometimes produce more amps than listed. Be VERY careful when using them so you dont fry your LEDs and remember to use fuses religiously. You'll probably need to stock up on 1A Fuses because I've only been able to find them at radioshack.
Good luck and I'm excited to see the results.


Edited by phys - December 20 2011 at 3:31pm
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